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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #21  
Old 29th October 2012, 14:40
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They're just test fitted at the moment - the plan is to shorten the existing copper pipes putting a new flare on the end. The rear one goes directly into the pressure valve. I'm probably going to create some kind of bracket to attach it to the bulkhead. I just need to find time to head back into the garage!
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  #22  
Old 30th October 2012, 11:55
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I like the idea of the banjo fittings on the M/C, it looks very neat. I will take some pics of my lines from HEL when I get home this week. They appear a bit different at the ends ie the crimping,
John
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  #23  
Old 3rd November 2012, 19:58
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I know, I'm taking my time over this one

Made good progress today installing the new flexi brake hoses from the master cylinder.


Old copper pipes still there, but the flexi hose fixing located and bolted in


Painted the master cylinder adapter plate


The pressure reducer for the back is relocated just above the steering column and all 3 pipes have been chopped and re-flared. I was a bit worried about running the flexi pipe at this radius but it feels OK.


Pressure reducer peaking through from the top.

Next time I go work on it I'll be able to bolt everything up and fill the system back up with fluid, had to wait for paint on the back of the adapter plate to dry first.
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  #24  
Old 3rd November 2012, 22:14
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Cor, get you with your pretty blue pipes and adaptor plate!

Looking good - those banjo fitting on the MC look a very good idea, especially with how close my pipes get to the side and top bonnet.
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  #25  
Old 11th November 2012, 14:09
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Paint on the back of the adapter to avoid any rust



A tube of heat shielding goes over the brakes hoses, this adds extra heat protection as they run past the servo underneath it.



The most useful tool ever in a situation where you can’t see – a camera on the end of a long bendable probe!



Snake cam, allowed me to easily locate bolts and screws while using the laptop screen to see what was going on.

With the aid of this tool I bolted up the rose joint to the brake pedal.



Old heat shield adapted and fitted under the master cylinder, the extra tube covers from the heat shield back.



The heat shield keep everything nice a cool as it’s directly above the exhaust manifold. The servo gets close to the side, but there’s more than enough room! (Zip tie is temporary until I get some ali foil tape to finish it off properly.



Lots of clearance for the bonnet to close.



Here is is all back together again! Took it for a quick test drive, it was cold dark and the first time I’ve needed to use the fog light on the car!

Initial impressions – pedal travel is longer, but way more progressive. The feel is much more like my tintop – not as much bite but much easier to use.
Took it out again today and tried a few emergency stops, it stop nice and straight and you can pump the pedal relativity easily to stop the wheels from locking.

All in all a very good upgrade!
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  #26  
Old 11th November 2012, 17:01
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Hi Patrick

Glad you like your new brakes.

Where did you source your rose joint from?

I'd like to add a note to the Dual servo thread for anyone get to fit their servo - I suspect there are quite a few who have left it until winter to do along with a list of other things.

Mike
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  #27  
Old 11th November 2012, 17:48
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I bought the rose joint from an ebay seller:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180425540596

Name - should the above listing end: 3/8"x3/8" UNF Ultra High Performce Female RH Rose Joint

It's important you get the right hand thread one. I used a 3/8" nut, bolt and washers to connect the pedal. Metric bolts are a smidgen too big.

Seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/mcgillmoto...p2047675.l2562
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  #28  
Old 11th November 2012, 20:17
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Those flexible brake hoses do look very nice
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  #29  
Old 9th January 2013, 13:02
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Not so much an update, but a new toy:





Innovate MTX-L: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

Wide band O2 gauge and sensor with data logging (laptop connect with serial cable).

I know mines not fuelling right - the screw on the AFM was messed with before I got it. I should be able to tweak that with it a bit but its more peace of mind I'm after that it doesn't lean out at the top. It as suitable outputs to connect to after market ECU's like Megasquirt so that may be on the cards next...
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  #30  
Old 13th January 2013, 21:01
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Calibrated the sensor today, the big plastic plug that you connect to the sensor has a little plastic tab if you connect the plugs without lifting it then it can very easily go the wrong side of the plug. That stops it connecting up properly which this one did first few times I tried.



I put the power on with the sensor disconnected which puts it in calibration mode. Unplugged the power and plug in the lambda sensor then put the power back on. The sensor gets quite hot, you can see it glowing here inside:



It showed HTR on screen while it warmed up. My bench power supply showed between 1.4 and 1.7 amps being pulled while it was warming up.



It briefly showed CAL is the display while calibrating then switched to 22.4 as it is in free air:



Now ready to install when its dry enough to drive over to the garage with all the tools
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  #31  
Old 31st August 2016, 15:38
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Fitted a new battery, thread is here: http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=6064



New project:

The current clutch slave is about to pop, the mechanism for moving the clutch in and out appear to be overly stressing the hydraulic components.

As I’ll need to take the gearbox off anyway it seemed like a good time for an upgrade. Apparently the ZF 6 speed from the E46 320d is a straight fit and as a bonus the same angle as the M20, it's also a more solidly built and younger than the getrag that's in there now. Only down side is that I might need a different final drive ratio to make full use of the new ratios.

One eBay special later:





But the shift linkage at the top was smashed in transit



So decided to try and fit it using HTS 2000 brazing rods. I tired this with propane but it wasn’t hot enough. I instead got a can MAPP gas and a new burner from B&Q:









Braced with a bolt and a custom cut piece of rod







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  #32  
Old 2nd September 2016, 20:20
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Putting a hold on the 6 speed box for now, it's more than 10cm longer than the existing so needs new gearbox mount and the drive shaft shortened. I'm going replace the damanged hydrualic parts of the E30 clutch system initally instead.

Service time! New oil fully synthetic ester



Managed to avoid spilling anything on the ground for a change!



Being able to take the side off the engine bay really makes filter swaps easy!



Also done is 6 new spark plugs (theyre pretty cheap so why not!)

Found a minor vacuum leak so the idle is much better now.

Also tried installing the AFR guage but it's stuck on the HTr display and won't calibrate so there's some testing and messing to do with it.
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  #33  
Old 2nd September 2016, 21:59
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Hi Patrick. Just browsing back through this thread I noticed that you have put the (Sierra?) rear brake proportioning valve across the bulkhead. It has a ball inside that rolls up an angled bore to limit the flow of fluid to the back wheels and on the Sierra is on the near side inner wing facing forwards, not across the car. The idea is that the harder you brake the more it rolls up the bore and restricts the outlet port, delaying the pressure build up in the rea wheel cylinders. If fitted across the car it it won't do this.

Meanwhile it's all looking very smart. I love those banjo fittings on the master cylinder. I will probably go that route when I do my proposed pedal box move during the coming winter months. Peter.

Last edited by Grey V8 Pete; 2nd September 2016 at 22:02..
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  #34  
Old 2nd September 2016, 22:08
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Hi Peter, thanks for the info. The valve is from the E30 donor car. I'll double check the orientation in the donor and adjust as needed.

Brakes passed SVA like this, front lock before the rears but I'd rather make sure I don't have any long term issues with the most important system in the car.
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  #35  
Old 3rd September 2016, 19:18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Putting a hold on the 6 speed box for now, it's more than 10cm longer than the existing so needs new gearbox mount and the drive shaft shortened.
That's a shame, it sounded like an interesting upgrade.
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  #36  
Old 3rd September 2016, 19:31
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I'll get to it at some point, just more than I want to tackle right now
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  #37  
Old 6th September 2016, 10:14
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A few more service things done:

My jump leads didn't work - no continuity = useless jump leads. The copper was crimped and cut straight through at the factory. Trimmed and now soldered much better.



Inside the rocker cover still looking very clean. Adjusted all the valve gaps to 0.25mm, glad there are only 12 valves to do! Most needed a little tweak. Also gave the oil spray bar a good clean out with brake cleaner while the cover was off.



The rocker gasket was a bit very second hand, I managed to get one in Basingstoke same day which was a pleasant suprise! It explains why there was some oil in the plug holes.

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  #38  
Old 6th September 2016, 21:15
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The clutch slave failed not sure why, perhapse the master cylinder was a miss match or it was just a bad part. The reason is not so important.

Ive decided to use the BMW master cylinder as this will be matched to the slave. Unfortunatly the original design for the clutch attachment is very poor the whole pedal box twists.

Therefore Ive started protyping a new bracket design that will be a strong mount for the master cylinder with a bracket the bolts up through the top of the scuttle already re-enforced for the pervious alternative clutch arrangment.

Ill 3D print this bracket for test fitting and if it works OK Ill try to recreate it in aluminum.

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  #39  
Old 7th September 2016, 08:38
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Couple of hours into the print:



EDIT:

Bit further along:

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  #40  
Old 7th September 2016, 19:26
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Since first installing the brakes a spring has been missing off one of the pads which means the passenger side calliper rattles. I decided to switch from the jurid to ATE pads – the ATE’s bite a bit better initally than the jurids – something I’ve found on my daily drivers. Also the ATE pads are OE for E46 / E9x.



A few bits of rust, here under the drivers door:


Chipped off, brushed and some rust remedy:



Sprayed with rollbar and chassis paint, you can see the hole in powder coat but I’d rather this than have the surface rust carry on creeping:



The wing mounts had also started to rust, so took these off while the wheels were off for the pad change. Also cleaned up any chips in the powder coat on the front suspension:





Refreshed with new nuts and bolts:



3D part has also finished printing, need to how this fits:



EDIT:

Here's a timelapse of the 3D print: https://youtu.be/MD8rNL4XSsw
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