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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds

Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here

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  #521  
Old 4th June 2021, 18:29
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Not much to report over the last couple of weeks due to other priorities.
But, I've now re-fitted the rear silencer box with the new connectors. A much better fit than the previous ones and now hopefully gas tight. I just need to tidy up with a bit a paint on the exposed pipes.

New exhaust connectors by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've also fitted an additional 2 way fuse box. One new fuse for the auxiliary power socket and one for the positive feed to the wiper switch which wasn't fused by the original main fuse box. The new fuse box is under the dash, just to the right of the steering column.

Aux fuse box by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

That's all for now, stay safe.........
,,,,,,,,,,,peter
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  #522  
Old 4th June 2021, 18:59
molleur molleur is offline
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Progress is progress nonetheless. Keep at it!
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  #523  
Old 13th June 2021, 21:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molleur View Post
Progress is progress nonetheless. Keep at it!
Thanks, indeed it is.
I'm gradually nibbling my way through my list of jobs.......

This week I fitted the windscreen. I used Sikaflex 255FC Adhesive. Bit of a messy job but I got there in the end.

Windscreen Fitted by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The all important marking for the IVA test.

Windscreen approval mark by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

A few days later I fitted the 'plastic chrome' trim surround. A very time consuming job to get the mitres and lengths correct.

Windscreen surround by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've also fitted the Interior Light door switches. It's practically impossible to get to the rear of the switches due to the 'A' pillar support structure so I soldered on the wires. The wire loops are to allow movement of the plunger.

Interior Light Door switches by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And here's one fitted....

Interior Light Door switches by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The lens on my phone camera has made the length of the plunger look much longer than it really is. The plungers will be trimmed to size once the doors are fitted.

So that's another two jobs done!
Stay safe.........Peter
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  #524  
Old 13th June 2021, 23:21
molleur molleur is offline
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a bit like eating the elephant. One bite at a time.
Looking good, especially the plastic chrome trim. Well done.
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  #525  
Old 14th June 2021, 09:10
kon kon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molleur View Post
Looking good, especially the plastic chrome trim. Well done.
Agreed! That screen looks ace I bet that feels like a pretty big milestone.
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  #526  
Old 19th June 2021, 20:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kon View Post
Agreed! That screen looks ace I bet that feels like a pretty big milestone.
Thanks Jack and Kon. Some steps make a dramatic impact but others like this week when I have been doing some more mundane but equally important tasks.
I've been doing some more wiring before refitting the dashboard surround. Hopefully this will be the end of the wiring which can take a surprisingly long time for very little to show.
I been running in some extra cables like a supply to the boot for a boot light, some speaker cables and an aerial cable to the boot. The aerial will be fitted after the IVA test.
I've also been connecting up the interior light cables and running supply and illumination cables for the heater control. Plus a lot tidying up to make all the cables secure and IVA compliant.
All the unused wires to the ECU have been terminated in insulated closed end connectors and then encased in some conduit.

Unused ECU cables by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And then tied up under the dash.

Under dash wiring (passenger side) by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

This required the 'head in the footwell' pose

Then taking a break from wiring, I made up a mounting panel for the intermittent wiper control unit. This will be later fixed at a convenient point along the lower edge of the dashboard surround.

Wiper delay panel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

So a few more nibbles out of the elephant and edging slowly towards the finish line

Stay safe.............peter
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  #527  
Old 19th June 2021, 21:08
molleur molleur is offline
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Your little wiper delay panel turn out nicely!
Another small bite.
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  #528  
Old 20th June 2021, 04:59
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
This required the 'head in the footwell' pose
I feel your pain!

Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
Then taking a break from wiring, I made up a mounting panel for the intermittent wiper control unit. This will be later fixed at a convenient point along the lower edge of the dashboard surround.

Wiper delay panel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

So a few more nibbles out of the elephant and edging slowly towards the finish line

Stay safe.............peter
Very neat work! Small steps maybe, but you're getting there

Regards, Mick
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  #529  
Old 25th June 2021, 19:22
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Default You never stop learning things...

A little lesson on the Ford Sierra steering column that might be useful to other builders.

After what seemed like hours of sitting in the drivers seat fiddly about with wiring to make it all neat and secure I noticed that I had a small amount of play in my steering column around the lower of the two upper column bearings (labelled C).
I know the IVA inspectors are hot on any play in steering components so decided that I had better investigate now before I refitted all the dashboard. I had theorised in my head that the lower bearing might be worn or the thrust washer might be missing.
Here's a useful Ford diagram I found on line....

Ford Sierra Steering column by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


So I removed the upper outer column which is just two bolts and I immediately saw the problem. The lower thrust washer (labelled B) was the wrong way round.
I swapped it over, bolted it back up and fitted the steering wheel. Problem gone completely with no perceptual play. I must have assembled it incorrectly about 8 years ago when I cleaned and painted the column.
I feel a bit of a dummy for doing this but really glad I found it now before the IVA test!!
More progress to report tomorrow....
Stay safe, Peter
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  #530  
Old 26th June 2021, 20:19
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Default Sometime the simplest jobs....

Thanks to Jack and Mick for your kind comments on last weeks update.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm trying to complete two tasks per week and this weeks tasks looked like some easy wins.
My list simply said "recover windscreen trim and fit Interior light and mirror" what could be simpler?
First, I had to push the car out of my garage to access the loft above and the car is certainly getting heavier with so much now fitted. Luckily, the windscreen trim pieces were in the box that I packed them in 8 years ago! And on first sight didn't look to bad.....

Windscreen trim by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
Windscreen trim by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

But when I started to strip of the old covering I found the rain had soaked into the foam backing and rusted the metal former.....

Windscreen trim by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
Windscreen trim by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

So I first stripped of any remaining paint and glue with some paint stripper. I then coated it in some de-rust gel to remove most of the rust and after that sanded it smooth. A coat of rust converter and then some new black paint restored it back to almost new condition.
Then it was recovered with some new foam and cream vinyl. I then trail fitted the interior light and mirror before refitting to the car.

Windscreen trim by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Having connected up the interior light I decided to test it by connecting the battery. As I reconnected the battery there was a spark and a small pop sound. Hmmmmmmm
I checked the main fuse panel and sure enough Fuse 2 had blown which is the supply to the courtesy lights. The interior light has three connections Earth, Perm supply and switch supply. The colours of the wires match the Sabre loom so I just connected them up.

Interior light by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It has three wires because like most interior lights it has a little slide switch which over rides the door switches. After a bit of head scratching and studying the switch I realised it was designed for a 'switched earth' circuit but the Sabre loom is a 'switched live' circuit. (This was my scribble on the bench)

Interior light connections by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The simple solution was to swap to 'switched live' by swapping the purple (permeant supply) and the black (earth) wires. The wires are soldered to the light fitting so quite easy to de-solder and swap the wires over.

Finally, I could screw it all back in position....

Interior light and mirror by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

So I got my tasks done this week but it took much more time than expected but it's all part of the fun

Until next week, stay safe, Peter

Last edited by peterux; 26th June 2021 at 20:23.. Reason: typo
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  #531  
Old 13th July 2021, 21:01
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Default Doors, locks and latches.....

For once my lack of updates is because I've been very busy in my garage. I finally decided to tackle the re-assembly of the doors. The original builder had made a start on the doors but I don't think they were ever finished as the locks didn't work and the electric windows weren't wired up.
For those of you not familiar with the Royale Sabre, the doors are a complex GRP moulding with an internal steel support frame. Working on the door locks is like key hole surgery and a pair of very long nose pliers are essential.

Drivers door by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

One of the benefits of my build being over an extended period , I've been able to accumulate new latches, exterior handles and internal handles. The doors are designed to use either Ford Sierra or Ford Granada locks and handles. I'm using Sierra latches and Granada handles as these are nice chrome versions of the cheaper black plastic Sierra ones. It's a bit of an adventure as the build manual leaves little detail on how the latches and handles should be assembled.
The locks are fiendishly complicated to understand how they operate and I hoped it would become clearer once they are connected.

Drivers door lock1 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The tab on the left with the red clip is for the external key lock. The other left tab with the yellow clip is for the external handle. The tabs on the right are for the internal handle and lock. Ford designed them with a primitive central locking system but I have decided not to use this for a number of reasons and I figured that on a two door car it wasn't really a problem.
I manged to source new locks from Germany.

Drivers door lock2 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The Royale build manual advises that it's not possible to use the original Ford lock barrels as the GRP doors are thicker than the Sierra steel door skins. The ones that came fitted to the car are very rusty so I bought these off a stall at Stoneleigh. The tab is far too large and had to be modified.

Lock barrel 2 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The Ford lock 'red tab' has a total travel of only18mm so I had to create something that translates 180 degree rotation to a 18mm travel. This is the third option that I came up with and seems to work. The small bush in the centre is welded to the tab but is a bit rough as I had the welder turned up too high. The washers at the base are Araldited on just to hold them in place while the 5mm countersunk screw is tightened.

Drivers door lock adapter by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

With the key lock and adapter in place I then had to bend up an operating rod to connect the two. Here it is shown in the locked and unlocked position.

Drivers door lock rod 2 by Sabrebuilder, on FlickrDrivers door lock rod 1 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
Rotate the key and it is in the locked position. The metal bar in the middle is part of the steel internal door frame. Bending and shaping the rods is a very tedious and frustrating job with much cursing.

Next, I fitted the exterior handle....

Exterior Locks by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
And then bend up another rod to connect the extrior handle to the latch mechanism. The original Ford rod turned out to be the right length but the wrong shape so with more bending and more cursing...

Outside handle actuator rod 1 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
Outside handle actuator rod 2 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
So now I had an external key barrel lock and handle that seemed to work so I moved on the fit the interior handle....
The original builder had used the Sierra handles but I wanted to use Granada chrome handles.
Interior door handles by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It soon became obvious that I need to fit the door card to get the position and height of these handles correct. Here's the GRP door card being fitted to align the interior door handle.

Door card by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've fixed the interior door handle with these two strips of galvanised steel.

Interior handle fixing 1 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And then make up another actuating rod from the handle to the latch....

Interior handle actuator rod by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
Which had to be supported half way along with one of the original Ford clips.

Interior handle actuator rod by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

At this point I decided not to fit the actuator rod for the internal lock as with a soft top car this would be a security risk. It would be easy to put a wire or stick between the top and window and flick the lock off.
But now I was stuck as the logic of the Ford latch mechanism didn't work.
To cut a long story short I found adding a spring in place of the interior lock appears to work.

Interior handle actuator rod by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The spring allows the fourth operating leaver on the latch to be moved when unlocking with the key and pulls it back to the locked position when the key is moved to the locked position.
Difficult to put it into words but it appears to work.

This has to have been the most frustrating part of the build but I feel I'm nearly there.
Of course, I've still got to tackle the electric windows but I may do the locks on the passenger door while I can remember how I did it!

So until the next update, stay safe........

Peter
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  #532  
Old 14th July 2021, 08:33
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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That must be the most complicated door of any kit car! And the fibreglass mouldings are amazing. I wonder if they were made from a mould taken from a "real" steel door? If not they must have taken many many many hours to design and make.
Looking forward to seeing the end result!

Cheers Robin
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  #533  
Old 15th July 2021, 19:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinClan View Post
That must be the most complicated door of any kit car! And the fibreglass mouldings are amazing. I wonder if they were made from a mould taken from a "real" steel door? If not they must have taken many many many hours to design and make.
Looking forward to seeing the end result!

Cheers Robin
Yes, it surely is. It doesn't look exactly like any Sierra doors I've seen on line but I'm guessing that this must have been the starting point. Perhaps they modified a steel door and then took a mould?
As you say, the amount of work creating all the drawings, jigs, tooling and moulds for the Sabre must have been a huge project. John Barlow (the designer) must have envisaged selling a much higher number of kits than the 150 that were made. Even the door cards are a custom moulded GRP part.
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  #534  
Old 25th July 2021, 19:51
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Not a huge amount of progress since my last update but I have now fitted the grab handle to the drivers door.
The grab handles are screwed to a threaded plate that sits behind the door's inner skin. But the grab handles and securing plates were missing from my car, presumably lost somewhere along the way?

As the grab handle support plates were missing , I made some up from 4x35mm bar simply because this is what I had in my stash. The outer two holes are threaded to take 5mm fixing screws and the two inner holes are to fix the plate to the door inner door skin.

Grab handle and support bar by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

You then fix the door trim panel in place and drill the holes through the trim panel and inner door skin to get the holes aligned.
The support plate is then pop rivetted to the inside of the inner door panel. The pop rivets are just to hold the plate in place until the fixing screws are done up. A very neat solution.

Grab handle fixing by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The keen eyed might notice that the self tapping screws I used to fix the inner handle have now been replaced with M4 nuts and bolts. The original builder had used self tappers but the RMC build manual says to use nuts and bolts and who am I to argue with John Barlow!

I've started fitting the locks to the passenger door now, so no updates for a while...

Until then, stay safe,

Peter
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  #535  
Old 31st July 2021, 21:09
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Taking a break from working on the door locks and latches I decided to refit the dashboard surround which I haven't done since recovering it.
I then discovered that the heater demist pipes fouled against the body tub just below the windscreen. A quick check in the build manual confirmed that these should have been fixed at 45 degrees.
I had to remove them and refit correctly like this...

Demister vent connection hose by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Then I was able to refit the surround and dashboard....

Dashboard and surround by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And just for future reference this is the surround's centre mounting fixing.

Dashboard surround support fixing by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Once the steering column controls wiring is securred I can then test it all again

Until then, stay safe.........

Peter
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  #536  
Old 23rd August 2021, 08:43
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Not much progress in August due to grandchildren school holidays, days out and a short holiday.

But I did have some garage time yesterday and fitted and tested the windscreen wipers. The dashboard and steering column switches are all back in so I was able to give the engine a good run and I was pleased to find it started first try.
When I first installed the wiper system I had no windscreen so was not able to fit and test the arms and blades.

I started with the usual safe test with drinking straws to check the sweep angles looked ok.
(You will have to click on the picture to see the video clip)

Windscreen wipers 2 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


That looked okay so I proceeded to fit the arms and blades. The arms need to be shortened and the crank angle tweaked to get the blades close to the windscreen lower edge. I started with the far left wiper arm and worked my way across.

Wndscreen wipers 1 by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Despite all the rain yesterday I was testing inside with a bottle spray so the real test will be in the real rain :-)

Progress will be slow over the next few weeks so that's all for now,
stay safe,

Peter
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  #537  
Old 12th September 2021, 20:53
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Okay, so here's a quick update of what I've been up to in my garage....

Apart from the pull handle fixing, I've finished the locks on the passenger door.
(Glad that's over as it's the fiddliest of jobs)

Passenger door by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The cut out for the passenger door latch had been poorly cut so I had to fill it, reshape it and paint it before installing the Ford latch. I had sourced some brand new Ford fixing screws but they were too short due to the thickness of the GRP. But I found some yellow passivated Torx screws on ebay that look professional. I also bought some matching yellow passivated bolts for the door crash protection bars fixing.

Door latch by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

When I first installed the engine I used a two port heater valve between the engine and the Sierra heater matrix.
It dawned on me one day that this was a potentially a big mistake as it means the coolant doesn't circulate through the BMW M52 cylinder head when the heater valve is closed. Whilst looking for a solution on ebay I came across a VW/Audi three port valve that was similar to the two port valve I used initially.

Heater valve comparison by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Luckily, the new three port valve is almost identical in size to the original, the same mounting hole dimensions and has the same electrical connector, making it a relative easy swap.

New heater two way valve by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Here's the new valve installed. The main work was re-routing the hoses and adding an additional return flow hose for when the valve is shut.

New two way valve installed by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Hose work complete. The air vent had to be repositioned due to lack of space.

New heater valve installation by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've wired up this temporary switch to control the heater control valve. Testing confirmed that I can now switch the coolant on and off through the heater matrix.

Temporary heater control switch by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

That's all for now........

....peter
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