Worcester MIGLIA

[Mister Towed]

After much trial and error I have now removed the top four leaves from the rear spring (Vitesse donor), and fitted 150lb Spitfire springs to the front, cut down by 1.5 coils, with new, standard dampers all round.

This gave it a suitable ride height with no lowering block needed and great ride and handling as the tyres now stay on the road instead of hopping about all over the place, which they did with stiffer springs fitted.





As for the brakes, I've got standard drums at the back with grooved, solid discs up front and an aftermarket servo for better feel.





Bearing in mind I have a cast-iron six pot up front, that setup is plenty powerful enough for fast road use. Can't comment on track use as I don't do track days, but Phil J (green Spyder No.2 above) is competitive with early 911's on the track and has standard Vitesse brakes and about 130bhp from his 2.5 six.

Not sure how much modification the Spitfire running gear will need, but I wouldn't think it will take much fettling to make it a mighty fast car.

Good luck.

[Carib Classics]

Wonderful MT, just what I needed to know much appreciated, I will be putting your findings within my build starting with the back end.I already had a remote servo on my shopping list.
As for the front end, didn't think it would have been a problem, but with my engine potentially being lighter than your six pot, I will certainly start with the reduced height springs.
I've just purchased some 15" wire wheels, are they what you used in your build? One of my major concerns is that the wheel arches are filled. I hate to see kits with undersize wheels, it spoils them for me.

[Carib Classics]

The top of my chassis is de rusted and painted with a thick layer of silver metallic paint and now requires to be turned over so the underside can be addressed.
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Attachment 1829.
My intension is to put at least three coats of paint to the underside giving it as much protection as possible. Once again as previous stripping back the existing paint and any signs of rust to be removed and letting the paint do its job.
Happy days, I've found just one hole which I shall get welded once the rolling chassis is in the workshop for the engine and gearbox fitting.
Attachment 1833.
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Week two in December and the bottom has had its three layers of paint and is now left to dry.
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Christmas is coming and everyone is going shopping, so I may as well join the fun. A set of wheels on ebay, a must have for christmas. Success !!!!!!, I win the set of four 15" Healey wire wheels with tyres. So off I go to collect them with my Buddy Paul. When we get to the seller, we are greeted by a couple of the nicest guys I have ever met since playing with classic cars.
Wayne and Paul at Atkinson Classics in Stoke on trent made us feel like long friends. We could have exchanged stories and ideas about classic cars all day. Plus owner Paul, found two more unused wire wheels with three tyres which he sold me. A brilliant day out. Now its all about stripping, cleaning and buffing them to a polished shine ready for the body fit.

A number of people have mentioned replacing the Trunions, mine seem to be ok, but what do I know.
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Can anyone tell me what I should be checking? I intend to replace the end caps, oil seals/rings, thought that would be adequate? The bolts seem to be a good tight fit, but they could also be replaced if necessary. Can anyone educate me?

[Mister Towed]

Originally Posted by Carib Classics

I've just purchased some 15" wire wheels, are they what you used in your build? One of my major concerns is that the wheel arches are filled. I hate to see kits with undersize wheels, it spoils them for me.

I have 4.5x14" MGB wheels fitted to mine - they're cheap, easily available and look the part.

The critical thing looks-wise imho is the tyre sidewall height. In this picture my (silver) car is on 70 series tyres and the other two are on 80's (175/70/14 vs 175/80/14).



Once I saw that picture I upgraded to the higher profile tyres and raised the suspension about an inch and a half to allow clearance as I felt the other two cars just had more fifties 'presence'.



That gave me a stance and look that I'm much happier with -



You'll be fine with 15" wheels so long as you get the tyres and suspension settings right. I use this simple calculator to determine whether tyres will fit and how they'll affect the gearing -

http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/vis...ize-calculator

Others may disagree but if I were to fit 15's to my car I'd be going for 155/80/15's which would fit, have similar gearing to the tyres already fitted and give the car an authentic 50's look -

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b832s47..._155_15_155R15

Good luck with it.

[Carib Classics]

Hey guys, YES !!!!! just when you guys thought I'd given up or put the project on hold I'm BACK.
Ok, BIG question????? All inputs are welcomed.
Can anyone confirm AS FACT the actual difference in the wheel base length between the Herald chassis and a Spitfire chassis.
Its decision time for me. Do I build on my existing spitfire chassis or do I need to make changes in order to keep Mikes great body design proportions, on the Herald chassis setup.

[1iTim]

Carfolio is a good spot for all those dimensions. Mikes milia is designed for a herald according to his website, so check there. Or you could speak to him and ask.

Tim

[davecymru]

I have seen those numbers in the past, possibly in the Haynes manuals?

Failing that, then I'm sure one of the beards over on http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl? will know!

[Carib Classics]

Thanks guys.
I've researched, and it seems to be 8" on one set of data, and 8 1/2" on another.
With that kind of difference it would make considerable difference with the Miglia body proportions if Mike was to make the existing body fit my spitfire chassis.
Has anyone built a Miglia on a spitfire chassis?
Please own up!!!!!!

[Carib Classics]

Last time I posted I was in the process of cleaning and painting my chassis.
Three layers on the top and four to the underside.
So here we have the final look.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Carib Classics

...Has anyone built a Miglia on a spitfire chassis? ...

As far as I know Marc F has the only Spitfire based Migia.

There is a photo of it in Post #6 on Page 1 of this thread and a build thread here:

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=5384

Hope that helps, Paul.

[Carib Classics]

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[garyh]

Can anybody help me to find my two shopping trolleys that have gone missing...

[Mister Towed]

Is that galvanised or sprayed silver? I wish I'd had my chassis galvanised...

[Carib Classics]

its all hand painted in silver paint. Purchased the paint from Aldi on special discount. Bought three tins, and was able to put three thick brushed coated to the underside and two to the top. I'm very pleased with the final finish.

[Carib Classics]

These have worked out great. Where my lockup is located there is a constant supply of baskets being left. once the basket is removed and a spare wheel is put on top of the wooden platform it becomes the perfect working height.
It also make the whole project totally mobile, when you need space on the right it can be pushed very easily. On good days the whole project can be pushed outside. I have found it really easy to work with and i didn't have to look very far for the items.

[1iTim]

Looking at the spit chassis compared to the herald I don't know how you will do the floor? I was originally thinking of an under slung aluminium honeycomb composite, but cost and the difference in the relative heights of the bottom of the herald's main chassis rails and the outriggers changed my mind. However might work for you on the spit.
Tim

[Marc F]

Hi CC, I do have the Spit based body in my garage and, IMHO, the proportions work just fine once shortened. For my car , Mike sliced and diced it by 9", and was planning to make a mould but, as that never happened, you will have two choices.

1) Lengthen your chassis - the Corsa Spyder guys do that, so you could probably buy the extensions direct from them

2) Shorten a standard bodyshell yourself (have you got a body, or has Mike definitely got one for you?). A good saw and some careful measurements and you will be done. But it needs a frame to support the sides of the body and crucially the rear radius arms.

Then, on Tim's point, Mike supplied me with floor pans that drop the floor down, but I think I will replace with aluminium. As a guide (and I won't know for sure until I get it up on stands), it looks like I could just plate from the bottom of the chassis across to the side members that my car now has. But if not I will make up aluminium drop boxes as I think they will look good. Haven't sorted what I want to do with seat and seat belt locations yet, but that will come. I will be buying a metal folder to make the task easier.

Edit: Also, you probably won't need the bonnet boxes - Mike cut mine off as part of the conversion. Won't affect your registration as far as I can see.

[1iTim]

Yep al floor is what I may do, using mikes floors as templates. I contacted an aluminium toolbox maker with some rough plans for a folded up (origami Ali) floor.
I also did calls in shear and 2mm al should be ok depends on the alloy.
Good luck in your choices
T

[Marc F]

2mm Tim? I thought Dave had used 1.2mm, I am loathe to go too heavy a gauge unless I need to. I did also look at honeycomb, but struggled to actually source any, and getting data that made sense to me (as a non engineer) was a nightmare.

But I will continue to ponder and listen to others' words of advice as I don't want my seats pulling out of the floor in an accident. Plating is an option of course, but I am aiming to keep the underside as smooth as possible. But safety is paramount.

[davecymru]

Yup, I went for 1.2mm and they do the job lovely.
But remember that I constructed mine with lots of alloy L section on the joins which adds strength as I don't have the space or tools to cut-n-fold alloy sheet to a good enough standard

So it was sheets of 1.2mm Alloy, Alloy L section, some 1mm cutting discs, tin-snips and rivets. lots and lots of rivets!


In case it's of any interest here are mine during construction on the one small empty space on my garage floor!



And in place:




One thing to mention that I've noticed from driving is that if I did it again I would angle the back wall of the foot well boxes so that it slopes up to the cross member as it can be fiddly getting my heels comfortable when getting in and out.