250 SWB Koupe Close to finish - Page 3

smash · #41 20th February 2016, 09:29

Well this car on your stand at Stoneleigh will, I suspect, be responsible for a massive amount of kit sales for Tribute, irrespective of their price hike and confusing reluctance to remold from a fully corrected body. Excellent work - Brynn must be like a dog with a dozen tails!!

Paul L · #42 20th February 2016, 11:27

Nubodi - Well done, your finishing touches to the car already look great.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by smash

... confusing reluctance to remold from a fully corrected body...

Smash - Why is there confusion?

For a start, the corrected body is with Nubodi in Reading & Tribute are in Dorset.

Plus taking a new mould also runs the risk of doing this to the buck.

And in this case, the "buck" would actually be a customer's car, that already had hours spent on it.

Note: I'm not trying to have a go at you, just highlight that this is not a simple "no brainer".

Cheers, Paul.

Lucky@LeMans · #43 20th February 2016, 14:42

Tribute have said on another thread that the molds will be the originals with a few "improvements" . I assume the out sourced company will be a pro laminating shop so you would hope the quality should be very high.

redratbike · #44 20th February 2016, 20:32

Can't wait to see it as a whole finished car rather than the snippets..I bet the owner is very chuffed to say the least!!,

Lucky@LeMans · #45 20th February 2016, 22:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nubodi Automotive

We bolted on one of the new hubs, a freshly painted wheel, chrome spinner and new tyre just to see what it looked like. Good so far.

This is the way to go for the period look. Its hard to see but do the arches cover the spinners too ? If not will the narrow 1.9 rear axle be enough ?
How well does this hub / wheel combo sit on the front ?

Nubodi Automotive · #46 21st February 2016, 10:53

We are getting the machined wheel bolts back on Monday so we can bolt on all four hubs to get a better idea of fit and gap. Its difficult to see how it will all look just putting on one wheel at a time.

Nubodi Automotive · #47 21st February 2016, 10:58

Usually we remove the air con fan and cowling to give a more 'period' look. But our customer wanted air con for the hot (hopefully) summer months and possible touring in southern Europe. We had to take off some material from the lower scoop of the front bottom edge of the bonnet to accommodate the fan.

Nubodi Automotive · #48 21st February 2016, 11:05

Our customer wanted us to make a front number plate support bracket which would be strong (speedbumps), discreet (no bolt fittings) and be in a position to cover the fan housing somewhat.
So we cut a suitable piece of aluminum and bent and shaped to to suit. This was then Sikaflexed (or any good quality PU adhesive will do) to the inside of the bonnet. No keying was needed as the glass matting give a good grip for the glue. We marked the centre of the car to get the bracket and plate central.

Nubodi Automotive · #49 21st February 2016, 11:08

We left it overnight to harden and the finished effect is good. If the number plate had been bigger it would have covered the fan casing completely. Once this is painted matt black though it will disappear.

Nubodi Automotive · #50 21st February 2016, 11:12

We attached the stainless steel sliding boot prop for the rear bootlid. On the Kalifornias there is a massive amount of movement angle availiable for this but not on the coupe. We had to cut away the inner panel till the prop did not rub while lifting the bootlid. This will be tidied and rubber trim fitted afterwards.

DaveP · #51 21st February 2016, 11:58

Nice work. Really like the number plate position and fixing. And a wicked plate as well - subtle and cool to boot.

Speaking of boots I really like the sliding boot brace - so much simpler than the gas struts challenge you all faced last year.

I am logging all these ideas for when I save up for my build - or a small lottery win would do.

Dave

Jaguartvr · #52 21st February 2016, 13:06

Numberplate looks great in that position but if it does hit a speed bump at speed it could do a lot of damage to the lower bonnet if it is too well fixed.
How about incorporating a long piano hinge on it, that way if you hit a ramp it should (in theory) just swing back without damaging the bonnet. You would just need a small spring to keep it held in the correct position. You would of course need to make sure the spring was strong enough that it didn't start pushing back at speed, that would be naughty with all the new forward facing cameras!

Nubodi Automotive · #53 21st February 2016, 13:52

We looked at every scenario and possible position and this was the best. You cannot use a hinged flap as it is up against the fan housing. No where to hinge up to. In reality as its a classic car with tall tyres and large wheel gap it is less likely to scrape than conventional cars.
The other build we are doing (Scott's Kalifornia) is a different matter as it will be considerably lowered.

Nubodi Automotive · #54 21st February 2016, 13:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveP

Nice work. Really like the number plate position and fixing. And a wicked plate as well - subtle and cool to boot.

Speaking of boots I really like the sliding boot brace - so much simpler than the gas struts challenge you all faced last year.

I am logging all these ideas for when I save up for my build - or a small lottery win would do.

Dave

If you wish you can do what others have done is pay in installment lumps as the project progresses.
Deposit-kit-build-prep-paint-refit-final,
this way you can start it quicker and save up as you spread the cost. We can work out a plan to suit all pockets.
Number 4 build in the queue (Brendan) is have us assemble and complete, then bring it back in a few months for prep and paint allowing lots of time to save up but gets to enjoy the car for the summer.

Lucky@LeMans · #55 21st February 2016, 14:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nubodi Automotive

If you wish you can do what others have done is pay in installment lumps as the project progresses.
Deposit-kit-build-prep-paint-refit-final,
this way you can start it quicker and save up as you spread the cost. We can work out a plan to suit all pockets.
Number 4 build in the queue (Brendan) is have us assemble and complete, then bring it back in a few months for prep and paint allowing lots of time to save up but gets to enjoy the car for the summer.

I would like to offer you my 80% restored 1949 Triumph Roadster but I know it will be worth £30k when its done so I really must make the effort to finish it now. The restoration costs are high but it should reward me when its done. The seat and door cards went to the trim shop last week ( another £1100 ) and I'm just about done with the reworked dash and Jaeger dials.
Two years so far and ££££'s !

Nubodi Automotive · #56 21st February 2016, 15:41

We do part exchange with whatever! We even take Euros!

Mitchelkitman · #57 21st February 2016, 17:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nubodi Automotive

We do part exchange with whatever! We even take Euros!

He He. Reminded me about a friend's venture to the Travelling French Market (in an Essex Town) - he offered them Euro's for the cheese but they refused! Methinks they weren't the genuine French article at all

DaveP · #58 21st February 2016, 19:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nubodi Automotive

If you wish you can do what others have done is pay in installment lumps as the project progresses.
Deposit-kit-build-prep-paint-refit-final,
this way you can start it quicker and save up as you spread the cost. We can work out a plan to suit all pockets.
Number 4 build in the queue (Brendan) is have us assemble and complete, then bring it back in a few months for prep and paint allowing lots of time to save up but gets to enjoy the car for the summer.

Dammit Richard. Stop tempting me

I will bring upper management to Stoneleigh later in the year and that will get the momentum I need. I do wish to do some some of the build myself so an open approach to options is appreciated. I will be going KOBRA though that I do know. And have chosen the colour already. Ford Purple Velvet as I had a 1300E in the old days and love that colour still.

Dave

swifty · #59 21st February 2016, 20:18

What a fantastic looking car, it looks the part and the colour choice show the body off at its best.

Umm i could be tempted.

One question that in the past has put me off buying a kit rebody is can you see anywhere on the car where the fiberglass meets the original steel body or has it been well hidden.

Nubodi Automotive · #60 21st February 2016, 20:23

No. There is nowhere, its all hidden. Come and see one in the flesh any day any time....we dont close.