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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Phantom GTR/Vortex Builds

Phantom GTR/Vortex Builds In a Vortex with your Phantom build? Share your build experiences here.

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  #1  
Old 5th June 2011, 14:18
Flip Flip is offline
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Default Door buttons

Am I the only one to have problems with the door push buttons?

On my car, the window glass is exactly in line with the mechanism for releasing the door catch. This meant that every time I pushed the door button in, it would not return until I lowered the window. (Nearly always) When I looked at the door catch mechanism the lever to open the door doubles back on itself. So I have cut off the double back part of the lever and linked the rod to the bit that is left. The result is that the door mechanism is easier to operate and it is no longer in line with the window. It is also on the correct side of the glass so no convoluted twisted piece of rod to connect the button to the lever. The only downside is that now it has a maximum travel of 10 mm. I am looking to have a new aluminium button and housing made which will allow any amount of travel up to 30mm. The housing will follow the curve of the door. It will in the foundry next week.
Any comments please?
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  #2  
Old 9th June 2011, 19:14
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kenmorton kenmorton is offline
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Default

No not the only one. I think everyone has invented their own solution. Mine involved some springs along the rod to help the button return.
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Old 22nd June 2011, 18:34
EddyP EddyP is offline
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Doesnt sound like yours is in the right place at all, shouldn't be anywhere near the glass, can you post a pic?
I've recently made some plastic surrounds which have a chamfer on the back of them so that they can go flush with the door, i've also designed them so that they're long enough to allow full travel of the button without the risk of the button disappearing into the door.
Not that difficult to make.
If there's a few people interested I could have a chat with someone I know about CNCing quite a few of them out in a batch.
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  #4  
Old 23rd June 2011, 18:49
Flip Flip is offline
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Default After the horse has bolted

My car was built by Phantom Engineering but even they are not perfect. Getting a photograph of the lock position is like trying to plat fog!

The attached are my best shots. The Passenger lock clearly shows how close the lock is to the glass. The green plastic clip on the drivers lock is to the external push button.

Your plastic surround sounds ideal but having gone as far as having aluminium blanks made up and purchased a metre of 25mm aluminium rod from the UK when I could have bought it here cheaper, I am somewhat reluctant to throw it all away for an alternative solution, regardless of how good it is. But please show us a picture. Some other owners could well take you up on your offer.

BTW Do you have windscreen insurance?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Passenger lock from above.jpg.jpg (82.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg Drivers side lock (400x300).jpg (85.1 KB, 8 views)
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  #5  
Old 1st August 2011, 18:19
grahamhughes grahamhughes is offline
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Default door buttons

hi flip
please can you send your attachments to ghughes2010@hotmail.co.uk. I cant open them on the forum
Regards Graham
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  #6  
Old 7th September 2011, 16:05
Flip Flip is offline
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Default The Ultimate solution

I now have a cast aluminium casing for the door button. The button itself is from 50mm Aluminium rod. It is designed to only allow 10mm of travel by turning the bottom part down to a diameter of 40mm. The casing has a 50mm openning at the top and 40mm at the bottom. The casing is kept in place by a shaped piece of plastic tubing as a spacer and a large round nut to lock it up tight. Under the button will be a small universal joint tapped to take M4 threaded rod. The universal joint allows unmatching movements to work together. It could be used on any door button system but will only take up to M4 rod. (The original door button from Chris uses a M6 thread so an adapter would need to be made to bring it down to M4.) I will then use the M4 threaded rod to link to the catch itself. The rod only needs a little heat to bend it to a right angle.

Picture list of parts: 1. Cast outer casing 2. Plastic pipe spacer 3. Round locking nut 4. Button made from 50mm round bar 5. Magical miniature universal joint 6. 3x M4 nuts for locking to bottom of button and either side of the universal joint 7. M4 threaded rod

The joy of not losing the button inside the door. I will stand by the car and push and push and push the button till my heart's content.
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File Type: jpg Door Button solution.jpg (67.3 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Unpolished button assembly.jpg (75.5 KB, 8 views)
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