Latest progress on the Gooster

[GreatOldOne]

Thanks Mike.

[Patrick]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Other questions:

I was going on other figures posted here, and decided on axle 1 = 500Kg, axle 2 = 570Kg, total of 1070Kg. Seem reasonable? I know Peter put 600 down for the rear axle.

Top speed - I reckon she'll make .5 past lightspeed and do the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs. But what's the consenus on Sublight velocity?

Max Power @ RPM - I'm sure there's some figures in the Bently manual, but I also recall some debate on here about it. I just can't find the thread it was in! Can anyone remember so I can go and refresh my memory?

It's a parsec a measure of distance rather speed... I digress what ever you put down as max speed make sure it's lower than your tyre speed rating. I think I put down 120 Tyres were rate 130

Weight wise it's worth putting more at the back to be sure as I failed on hat first time

[GreatOldOne]

Originally Posted by Patrick

It's a parsec a measure of distance rather speed... I digress

It is, but of course it's a measure of speed as well, as the shorter the route you take to Kessel, the quicker you are!

http://www.starwars.com/databank/loc...sel/index.html

[Patrick]

[GreatOldOne]

Awesome episode of Family Guy. Not seen the Empire Strikes Back one yet. Stewie as Darth Vader is just (to coin internet speak) "so full of win".

[peterux]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Other questions:

I was going on other figures posted here, and decided on axle 1 = 500Kg, axle 2 = 570Kg, total of 1070Kg. Seem reasonable? I know Peter put 600 down for the rear axle.

Top speed - I reckon she'll make .5 past lightspeed and do the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs. But what's the consenus on Sublight velocity?

Max Power @ RPM - I'm sure there's some figures in the Bently manual, but I also recall some debate on here about it. I just can't find the thread it was in! Can anyone remember so I can go and refresh my memory?

I used the following:
Design Weights:
Front Axle 550Kg
Rear Axle 700Kg
I came to those figures following a small survey of cars that had passed and failed. Mine passed wih no questions or head scratching on this point.
Top Speed must be less than your Speedo and tyres. Just put something sensible as they won't test it.
I think Max Power for the BMW engines is at 5800 RPM. It's in the BMW user manual I got with my donor car. Don't put this figure too high as it defines the RPM they use to test the noise.

..hope that helps...

...peter

[GreatOldOne]

I spent last night fashoning my rear wing extensions.

I thought I had some ali sheet left, but it turns out it's stainless. It's a fudging pig to cut. I lost count of the number of jigsaw blades I burnt out (literally in one case - it was glowing, even with liberal doses of cutting fluid! )

They're not quite there yet, but it's going to work. I just need to bend the sides up to make the portion that gets clamped to the underside of the wing a bit more ridged, and I think it'll be OK. As it is now, it goes below the 150mm reference plane. It's just a a bit floppy and skew-wiff.

I'll post pics at the weekend once they're finished.

[GreatOldOne]

Ok, here they are:






Not the prettiest of things, but they should tick all the boxes regarding the shortcomings of the sportster rear wings and IVA



They're held on by the light pod and the bracket that clamps it to the wing, so they're bound to fall off at some point in the future.

[peterux]

They look very good, well done!
Mounting the reflectors on them make them look permanent.

(Don't forget to buy some new reflectors if the extensions fall off )

...peter

[Patrick]

nice, I do like the reflector mounting

[timbo]

yes, great idea making the extensions vertical and putting the reflectors on them, should pass IVA wheel arch and reflector requirements no probs!
Tim

[GreatOldOne]

It's been a busy weekend, getting high on glue fumes and finally fitting carpet and rubber matting:





That's another job ticked off.

I've left the door seal over-long near the dash, as I'm not sure how to finish it off - either cut it off level with the end of the sheet metal, bend it up and cut it off after it's gone round the corner or cut it off short and not bother extending it along the top most edge of the door. Suggestions?

[peterux]

Jason,
That is all looking superb, well done!

On your last question, I managed to persaude mine to go round the last corner and I think I then glued it in position.



Looks better in real life as the flash in this picture has accentuated all the different 'blacks'.
(This picture was hiding in my 'Seats and Seatbelts' set for some unknown reason.)

[GreatOldOne]

Thanks Peter - My back is aching like hell, and I can't feel the tips of my fingers (makes typing interesting ) - But I'm very happy with how it's turned out.

I've got oodles of carpet left!

[GreatOldOne]

Pete - how long are your door check straps? I've got some staples and some black nylon webbing that I'm going to use (which will get covered in the red leather cloth), but I'm not sure how long to make them.

Also - does anyone have any handy hints on making gearstick gaitors? The one I got from the seat place was useless - too big / tall, and the hole that the stick passes through was off centre. I tried cutting it to make it fit, and fudged it up completely.

[peterux]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Pete - how long are your door check straps? I've got some staples and some black nylon webbing that I'm going to use (which will get covered in the red leather cloth), but I'm not sure how long to make them.

.

About 14 cm.
...peter

[GreatOldOne]

My friend Rob came round tonight, and we prototyped the low fuel circuit. I now have all the correct values for the components to get a 60 second delay before the lamp lights.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK9cVIQ4zqE

The video shows it in action - the delay has been reduced to about 4 secs for testing purposes. It turns on at about 1/8th of tank, set by a pot that determines the threshold. Another pot simulates the sender - turning it past the threshold, the lamp lights once after the preset delay, and immediately switches off if the the sender input goes above threshold again.

I'll be posting up the completed circuit, and Rob will write a more thorough explanation of how it all works. It looks as if it'll be simple to modify the circuit for any sender / meter combination as well, simply by changing the values of some resistors on the input stage of the circuit.

Next step - build it for real.

[Mike]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

My friend Rob came round tonight, and we prototyped the low fuel circuit. I now have all the correct values for the components to get a 60 second delay before the lamp lights.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK9cVIQ4zqE

The video shows it in action - the delay has been reduced to about 4 secs for testing purposes. It turns on at about 1/8th of tank, set by a pot that determines the threshold. Another pot simulates the sender - turning it past the threshold, the lamp lights once after the preset delay, and immediately switches off if the the sender input goes above threshold again.

I'll be posting up the completed circuit, and Rob will write a more thorough explanation of how it all works. It looks as if it'll be simple to modify the circuit for any sender / meter combination as well, simply by changing the values of some resistors on the input stage of the circuit.

Next step - build it for real.

Are all those wires needed?!

[GreatOldOne]

On the breadboard - Yes. It gets very messy, very quickly!

Once it's on veroboard it'll be a lot neater. Honest.

[GreatOldOne]

I completed the veroboard version last night, but I've yet to test it. Pauline took offence at the fact I was still soldering gone midnight...

I'll give it a spin later on when I get in from work