Tribute Z3gato (?!!)

[Barber]

Originally Posted by redratbike

these look good

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/253088156760...14&_mwBanner=1

They do look good indeed,. though I like the £80 price option better.

[Ozzie Dave]

Thats my ideal, the Evante/AM front end with the swb rear end like Erics, in a 2.8 the perfect option. then a 'period style' interior.

[Barber]

I have been thinking about the dashboard for the Z3gato, and decided that re-using the Z3 instrument functionality makes sense. So....
See Lancia Zagato dash below as basic guide.
I want a single instrument binnacle to accommodate the current Z3 instrument pod, the current binnacle is close, but a re-worked one would be more “joined up.”


The dashboard made for Geoff looks a good start point. Replace the dual dial binacle with a single, larger, oval one to accommodate the current Z3 instrument cluster.


Re-use the original Z3 outer dash vents in roughly the same position per current Z3 dash using extreme left and right positions. Re purpose the current Z3 central vent area and relocate the 3 Z3 heater control dials there. In the consul, the current stereo unit and vacated heater dial positions in the Z3 dash to be used to accommodate a satnav/media unit. There is not enough depth at dash level to locate the unit higher up due to the bar running across the dash. Satnav/media units are all 6-6.5 inches deep.




On the passenger side, I would like a smaller part of the recess to be deeper for a glove box arrangement for placing phones etc (on a non slip mat if no door). So the recess you did for Geoff would extend further to the left, and be deeper on the lhs nearer the passenger door side.

Going from the left of dash would be:

Vent, glove/phone box, heater control dials, single instrument pod, vent. I would probably re-use the quarterlight vents on top of the Z3 dashboard and cut them into the new dash top.


That way, only the current centre vents, are lost but we retain full warm or cold air(con) using the same control dials as the current. setup in a Z3.

I will probably cover the dash and consul in leather. The consul would house something like this...


Dimensions (WxHxD)182 x 112 x 153mm

[Paul L]

Barber - Someone 'bumped' an old 'Retro Dash' thread the other day.

Tribute had this style of dash for their MX5 based kits.



So I am sure they could make a Z3/MX5 hybrid.

Good luck, Paul.

[Jaguartvr]

The clever thing about the new 250 dash is that all the demist vents are still in place on the original dash. Filing those out of a GRP dash and getting the demister tubes back in the right place would have been a pain.
I think a hybrid dash using the existing Z3 instruments would be a good idea.
I really want to see someone wire up a set of the Veglia replicas from E B instruments in one of Chris's new dashboards.
Come on someone, pull your finger out!

[Barber]

I had planned to get some Mini electric mirrors and find a way to fit them. However, I figured that I had better spend my time on things that are less visible if they end in failure. So I got some of these. They are not cheap, and difficult to get hold of.

[Barber]

3.0 ltr, low mileage, game on.

[Jaguartvr]

In comparing 2.8's against 3.0's, one of the big advantages of the 3.0 is that all the metal work under the painted panels is painted satin black. This means you can paint your car any colour you like.
The hood will be coming off so the only restriction to colour choice is your interior. As you have a few months before starting the kit you could do the interior first, certainly easier to do now than when the hardtop is bonded on.

[Barber]

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

In comparing 2.8's against 3.0's, one of the big advantages of the 3.0 is that all the metal work under the painted panels is painted satin black. This means you can paint your car any colour you like.
The hood will be coming off so the only restriction to colour choice is your interior. As you have a few months before starting the kit you could do the interior first, certainly easier to do now than when the hardtop is bonded on.

Well..... if i had known that, I might have got a car a bit quicker. I have been focussing on finding a black or silver one. .. weep

The interior is tan (hearing aid beige), but I plan to do something with the dash/consul and the door cards, so only the carpets really. I will replace the seats, I am already sick of the bolster stabbing me in the back when I get in, then try to pin me in when I am getting out.

Of course, these are just plans, and free of the complications of actually doing anything.

[Barber]

If the split rims had a few more spokes I might have got away with retaining them.

[Lucky@LeMans]

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

In comparing 2.8's against 3.0's, one of the big advantages of the 3.0 is that all the metal work under the painted panels is painted satin black. This means you can paint your car any colour you like.
The hood will be coming off so the only restriction to colour choice is your interior. As you have a few months before starting the kit you could do the interior first, certainly easier to do now than when the hardtop is bonded on.

My blue 2.2 is all satin black under the bonnet. It looks like it was factory done like that from new.

[Paul L]

Barber – Belated congratulations on getting your donor car.

Good luck, Paul.

[Barber]

The seller commented that he had fitted a new battery. After a long journey home, and a round trip to Chichester, I had only done a few short trips over several days. Then off to Oman for an 8 day holiday. battery flat on return.

I know it is a common feature with BMWs generally, and the Z3 forums indicate a variety of possibilities. Just waiting for the battery to charge before going through the obvious ones mentioned so far:

Boot courtesy light, Boot wiring, Seat adjustment buttons, media centre (this could be a contender as the previous owner had a Panasonic pop out unit fitted), internal courtesy light, remote central locking, for starters.

I will have to get round to Maplins to get a multimeter so I can check everything more thoroughly. If that sounds like I know what I am doing, don't be fooled.But the various bits of advice about checking the circuits via the fuses makes sense.

Any tips or hints gratefully received.

[Jaguartvr]

Take both battery terminals off and give the posts and terminals a good clean. Make sure that the terminals are really tight, check that they can't rotate.
I have had problems both with the Z3 and a few E46's in the past.
BMW use a 10mm bolt that tightens the terminals from the bottom which is not a good system as it doesn't seem to tighten the terminals enough.
You think the battery is dead and recharge it but it turns out that disturbing the terminals brings it back to life.

[Barber]

Thanks Jag, I will double check the tightness of the bolts tomorrow. I am still going to get a meter and check the draw on the various fuses though just in case. It only costs £9.99 from Maplin.

[Jaguartvr]

I still find on the Z3 that if left for a few weeks it won't turn over as if the battery is flat. Give both terminals a firm tap to twist them slightly and it will then start.
The clamps appear tight and are clean. I have exactly the same with the E46 sitting on the drive.

[IanA]

When checking the residual current drain after turning the ignition off- it will be higher for the first 30 seconds whilst the alarm system stabilises. Then it drops down to the true value.
I have removed the fuses for circuits supplying my power seats.

[Barber]

Thanks Ian,

I will take a look when I get back to the UK later this week. There is some movement of the driver seat on braking and heavy acceleration, but as I plan to change the seats, I will most likely address it then. No harm checking in the meantime.

WRT to seat bush issue. I once worked with a very nice lady who took her Mondeo in for some remedial work. When I dropped her off to collect it, the mechanic manfully kept a straight face whilst advising her that her problem was a split bush.

[Welshkiwi]

Hi Barber,
I have been chasing what I thought was a drain issue also, the same from the previous seller that a relatively new battery was fitted. After doing the “parasitic drain tests” with every locked up, alarm on etc (ammeter in series) I was only getting 40ma of drain which is normal.
Subsequent testing (and a bit of history digging) finds the battery rated at 580cca has only got approx 280cca capacity and had been run flat at least 8 times in the last 18 months. Very heavily sulphated battery. Now at the battery reconditioner hopefully can be resurrected for at least a year or so whilst I build the project.
Not saying yours is the same, but check for your parasitic drain and if the car checks out ok, check your alternator charge is good and then focus in on the battery.....you never know how it has been previously treated. Cheers Mark

[IanA]

Originally Posted by IanA

I have removed the fuses for circuits supplying my power seats.

I also use a 15w solar charger which is left on top of the dashboard when the car is not in use.