Another Cordite Is Born ...

[garyh]

very funny Paul, you can come back now...

[a big scary monster]

Excellent job Paul, i was reading your post and thinking i can actually picture the post you will write when returning from the MOT centre,( it fails BTW but only on something trivial that you had already thought about but then forgot) and then the new thread of Mr Paul on the road and many pics of your girls smiling on outings, then i read of your break, its no fun and pointless if your not enjoying it or if other things should be being accomplished.
At least you are breaking at a point of satisfaction & achievement also you can relax as you have proved your moonrover plan will def work.
When looking at the comparison photos the sum of the parts you have created is certainly impressive, can you imagine if you had to write a step by step build manual if you where a manufacturer? It would be like a 1980's yellow pages on steroids.
On another note, pre stoneleigh I used foam rollers and interntional 10year metal paint satin to paint various areas on my camper restoration and although the roof has a dimpled finish my dad could not believe I had not sprayed it, my tip to you come paint time is test the rollers s the thinners or solvent or whatever in the paint dissolves the glue holding the foam to the plastic core on the roller, this then releases expands quickly and the foam shoots off as you rub the plastic core down the wet paint, plus you loose ¼ pint of paint in the roller, wickes ones seem good but whatever paint your using do some tests with its corresponding thinner or cleaner and roll for a few mins, Ed
My 1980 StarCraft ( the fold up not the motor home, @ stoneleigh2015 )

[garyh]

Drive it... to work!

[Paul L]

Mr T, Robert, Gary & Ed - Thanks for the replies chaps.

My Moon Rover shows me what I can achieve if I just keep chipping away at a problem.

So that is what I will continue to do when I restart work on the car, take it one step at a time.

As the amount of work still left to do is really quite overwhelming if I think about it too much.

Take care, Paul.

PS
Ed is your post missing a photo of your StarCraft?

[Scottie22]

Well done Paul! The car looks great, and you should be rightly proud of the effort you've put into getting it that way.

Don't take too long off though, as if you go off the boil for too long you may lose some of your enthusiasm, and find it hard to re-start!

Do you have any idea of when you will return to it?
May be a good idea to plan a definite come-back day.

[8 Valve Ed]

Took me about 6 months to regain my enthusiasm after I had a break from the Marlin, then I hit it with 14 hour days, virtually non stop. Slowed down a bit now...

[froggyman]

I don't believe it!! After battling on through the really challenging stages of your build I thought it was really starting to gain momentum and along with the better weather and longer days I could see all your hard work nearing fruition. I will miss your daily report and hope you will be back shortly.

[micky1mo]

Missing you already.

[scimjim]

just caught up and it's looking good

I've seen several new brake switches fall apart recently and while a quick fix is to lockwire or ty-wrap the body together, I went for a metal bodied switch from a land rover like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bearmach-L...item3a97075a61

[garyh]

Added to my watch list, that looks very well made. Thanks, Scim.

[Paul L]

Scottie, 8 Value Ed, Froggyman, Micky1Mo & scimjim - Cheers gentlemen.

I am certainly hoping that this break will only be for a matter of weeks, and no more than a month (or so) at most.

Even if I can only restart at the level of one day a week, I will definitely be back doing something on the car before too long.

It is unfortunate that this break has come when the sun is shining outside & I usually have to battle the weather as much as the kit.

However, for a long time now, this build has really left me feeling like this.



As no matter how many hours I work, I don't seem to get any nearer the "carrot", so I just keep "plodding on".

Thankfully the reality is that, even if the finish is still a long way off, I have made real progress towards the finish line.

So stopping at this key point actually gives me a chance to look back and appreciate just how far I have come.

( Especially as I picked the Cordite kit because I didn't think I would be capable of the minor fabrication work the Spyder needed. )

I have also decided to make getting to the working Moon Rover stage my next milestone target.
( Even if I can only drive it a few feet in either direction on my driveway, that would still be good enough for me. )

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Moon Rover - Basic To Do List:

Bulkhead:
- Steering Column - Standard Spitfire parts being fitted to original Spitfire mountings.
- Dash Board - All the hard work has been done, just needs everything to be fitted & connected.
- Battery - Ready for fitting, just need to sort out the new cables for the cut off switch in the dash.
- Wiring Loom - Largely tested & ready to go, just need to work out the best route for the rear loom to take.

Rear Framework/Hand brake panel/rear aches & boot "combo":
- Hand brake - Fit & connect, but remove warning light switch.
- Seats - Work out "best fit", drill holes & bolt into position.
- Seat belts - Fit eye bolts to the brackets already built into framework & clip in belts into place.
- Fuel Lines - Work out best route for hard & soft line & join them together.
- Rear Lighting - Build a temporary "home" for all the rear lights so they can be tested without the body shell in place.

Engine:
- Clutch - Look into why the pedal is currently not moving.
- Radiator - Fit wider version, designed to fit Spitfire brackets.
- Cooling System - Connect the heater to the engine, adding air bleeding valves.
- Fire Her Up!

OK, this part is going to be a lot harder to do, than is is to say.

Ideally I would love to reach this stage before the last days of the Summer have faded away.

As that would give me a huge morale boost just before I start to tackle the last of the bodywork over the Winter.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

In the absence of a build update, how about a nice featuring, Stirling Moss, the beautiful car 722 & the 1955 Mille Miglia...

https://www.youtube.com/embed/fJsdw-pof1o

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Take care, Paul.

PS
Jim - Thanks for the brake switch link, I think I will try one of those instead of another plastic one.

[8 Valve Ed]

Hi Paul, I suspect the clutch master cylinder piston will have seized, I would try a real hard kick or stamp on the pedal, but suggest you budget for a new master cylinder. Aluminium bore, steel piston... Result - corrosion.

I have the same problem, I gave it a very hard kick (or two!) which freed it off but now it's weeping fluid down my bulkhead. Sod to get at, so suggest it's an early task on your return to the build, before it gets even harder to get to.

[swifty]

Paul Its sometimes good to walk away to realize that there is more to life than a car build, but don't leave it too long as the weeks turn into months and before you know it it's Christmas again.

You can always keep those build juices flowing by popping back here now and again and having a nose.

[Paul L]

8 Value Ed - Thanks, in which case, I will definitely tackle the clutch before fitting the steering column & dash.

Swifty - I really want to be back working on the car when there is warmth and sunshine outside.
I will still keep posting on the forum, as it is a great motivator to see how other people are getting on.

Cheers, Paul.

[garyh]

Excellent vid, Paul. I like thed the boot release handle.

[Paul L]

Gary - Using the "D" for the boot release is a nice touch, in fact the whole twin hump \ boot opening arrangement is a work of art.

[Viatron]

Paul, take a rest you've earned it! On the brake switch you could always put a T in the brake line somewhere and fit a hydraulic one, not expensive and I've never had to change one!

TTFN
Mac

[8 Valve Ed]

The disadvantage of that is it only gives warning of actual braking. The pedal box switch warns when the pedal has moved from it's stop. That can make a big difference because it gives a following driver notice of the intent of the driver in front.

In my opinion the extra warning is well worth keeping especially with our rare, hand built cars, modern tinware is better able to withstand minor bumps without significant damage

[garyh]

I think that Merc needs flattening and some filler... c'mon Scottie, there's work to be done.

[Paul L]

Mac - Cheers, I am sure this short break will be good for the build in the long run.

Plus seeing your car out and about with all the last few finishing details on will help with motivation too.

Mac & Robert - I've actually ordered the metal switch in the previous link, so I will start with that & see how I get on.

Gary - Behave!