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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #1  
Old 28th February 2014, 18:01
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Default Time vs Effort for final pre-paint prep

I have decided to sand the car back to the glass prior to getting it properly painted. The paint that Chris put on was a quick covering for the Exeter show and what I added certainly didn't enhance the show room finish. It was always the plan to get it properly painted so now I am starting the prep.

Sanding down the panels is so easy (NOT) with all the curves but the random orbital sander is earning its money.

What I am finding though are various low spots on the body. They didn't really show when the whole car was painted but as I remove the red paint and go through the white under coat to the black body shell they stand out beautifully.

Now do I carefully remove the residual paint from theses dips, fill them and sand them flat?

I fear that they are so shallow I will make the situation worse as I couldn't see them on the old paint job before I started sanding. The worry is that if I get a decent paint job they will suddenly become obvious.

What is the general opinion, fill and sand flat or leave them?

I will post pictures when it is light again and not raining.
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  #2  
Old 28th February 2014, 18:09
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TheLaughingCow TheLaughingCow is offline
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Having just finished all my prep last week, this is something still fresh on my mind!

It'll be far easier to put filler into the low spots, than trying to sand the rest of the car down to match!


I found that a random orbital sander was great to get the general shape in the filler, but due to the curves, had a tendancy to create flat spots everything had to be finally sanded by hand!

High build primer may be a useful substitute
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  #3  
Old 28th February 2014, 18:40
Ollie Ollie is offline
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It kinda depends on how much you can afford to pay the proffesionals....(i know...as little as possible..)
Sanding all the paint off is a good start... removing as much trim helps keep costs down...
Please dont take this the wrong way...but if you want a quality paint job then leave the rest to the proffesionals... where i work (painting cars / bikes) people say they want something painted, but it will be totally prepared for paint...well when we get it, its often more work rectifying problems than if they hadn't touched it in the first place...! By far the majority of time and hard work in a top quality paint job is in the prep...
Having said that, the last rippley fibberglass car i repaired / painted was an old TVR (my own..) and once repaired, i sanded the whole car with a block/ by hand, with 80 grit (yes, 80 grit..) ripped off most of the paint, and all the high spots, then high build primed everything, sanded it again with something like 240 grit, primed it again, sanded again with 600, then painted it, then clearcoated it....then sanded it again with 2000 grit, then machine polished it....mirror finish and pin straight....
If you want to do as much as possible, sand everything, and high build prime it, then give it to the paint shop to final sand / prep...
(if you use 2 pack products, PLEASE use proper breathing apparatus, its deadly stuff....)
I hope i havn't put you off, i greatly admire your enthusiasm, dont go too mad with that sander on a curvy car, the best jobs are done by hand...with blisters, blood, sweat and tears.....
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  #4  
Old 28th February 2014, 18:50
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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but if you want a quality paint job then leave the rest to the proffesional

Exactly my plan. 180 grit ti get rid of the red paint and most the undercoat then hand sand back to 320 grit. Remove trim bits and window rubber. Give to paint shop.

It was more about filling the dips. Probably best to wait until I can post a picture I guess.
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  #5  
Old 28th February 2014, 19:59
Ollie Ollie is offline
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Cool..... a small tip though...
If you are going to leave it to the bodyshop to prime the car, i wouldn't bother sanding with 320 grit, because the 180 will leave a really good 'key' for the high build primer, more so than 320....
(unless that's what they've asked you to do...)
Hopefully save you some work too....
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  #6  
Old 28th February 2014, 21:35
Viatron Viatron is offline
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If I were you WCA I would have a go at the dips anyway, key the depression by hand with some 80 grit first then use a flexible primer if its shallow, if its a very noticeable depression I would maybe use some p40 first to bring it up to within a mm of the level you want then skim with flexible filler. I understand what Ollie says about the prep but it would be nice to have a hand in the finished body and I can't see you doing much damage just by trying to level things out a bit yourself, worst case scenario the body shop will take an extra hour to remove the filler and do it again. Just my 2 penneth worth....
TTFN
Mac
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  #7  
Old 28th February 2014, 22:12
Viatron Viatron is offline
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And if you want to see what a very inexperienced person can achieve with some guidance and admittedly more than a little professional criticism see here! Although to be fair I think my contribution was around 50% labour and 10% of the skill....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7b5u0th9w7...tor%20Buck.pdf

Last edited by Viatron; 28th February 2014 at 22:18..
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  #8  
Old 1st March 2014, 06:50
Drummajor Drummajor is offline
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Rub it down by hand, and use high build primer. It's the best way ( I think) .
Good luck
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  #9  
Old 1st March 2014, 13:56
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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I am happy to stop at 180 grit. I will still need to do quite a lot by hand though.

Here is a photo in the sunshine (remember that?)


3 types of dips. The little white bits will sand out easily enough. The red circles are dips that I think I will 80 grit nd then use body filler. The long red bit I will leave alone as I will probably make it worse rather than better.

The bits around the head lights will probably also get a bit of filler too
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  #10  
Old 1st March 2014, 17:00
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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And after a couple of hours of effort...



The red paint is off almost all of the front end.

The bits that will sand out have been sanded out of one side of the bonnet (ignore the edge of the centre buldge, i coulnd't find the right shaped sanding block for that)

The car has been washed down to reveal the low spots that will probably a bit of filler.

The thin line between the wing buldge and the bonnet will sand out but my neck and shoulder are to knackered to be bothered for today.

There are two grey patches on the wing which seem to repel the water. Possibly residue from the moulding process? Any suggestions for treatment as they are also likely to repel paint I would have thought.

Last edited by WorldClassAccident; 1st March 2014 at 17:02..
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  #11  
Old 1st March 2014, 18:13
Ollie Ollie is offline
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That doesn't look too bad at all, top effort...!
I can obviously see the low spots you mention, but can you actually feel that they are low, by hand? If it is negligable, ie, you can only just / hardly feel them, then high build primer should do the job... If they can be obviously felt, then maybe a small skim of filler...
When sanding the filler, try to use long 'swishing' movements, really using your arms and body to get long movements, rather than working on one area, then the next area....(if that makes any sense....i know what i mean....!)
Also, try to 'cross hatch' the sanding....attack from one angle for a bit, then from another angle, etc...that way you shouldn't get any flat spots and the curves should flow...
RE the bits that have repelled the water....that wouldn't be where your other hand tended to rest when sanding..? Natural grease from hands could be enough to do that.. a good spirit wipe should sort it, but if not, a more aggressive rub down might...., but if not, rip the top off with 80 grit untill its gone, and a skim of filler there too.. If the problem persists, definately point it out to the bodyshop, they should have no probs with it...
Hope my ramblings might help a bit, look foreward to seeing it in paint...I'll shut up now....
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  #12  
Old 1st March 2014, 18:21
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Top Tips Ollie. Thanks!

There are a couple of low spots that can be felt but most caspn just be seen. The figure of eight is the main issue as there is a circle of filler are the bottom of one of the dips the looks like a screw head. Hopefully a scim of filler will hide that.

There are definite dips around the headlights I will scim and sand. Other than that, and on your advice, I will leave it to the magic of high build filler.

Now I only need to sand back the remaining 80% of the car...
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  #13  
Old 1st March 2014, 18:24
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Forgot to say, grease from hands makes sense for the front wing.

Long swooshing strokes makes sense. Cut pipe insulation foam in half and about 30cm long and in makes a great sanding sledge. Firm enough to work but flexible enough to cope with curves.

Still use the electric orbital to strip the top coat though
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  #14  
Old 1st March 2014, 20:15
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y cymro y cymro is offline
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Hope this helps. It's from a boat builder, but yours is a barchetta ;-)
http://www.awlgrip.com/support-and-a...iberglass.aspx

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticle...ass_body_prep/

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...s_preparation/
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  #15  
Old 1st March 2014, 22:09
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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White spirite or clean alcohol for cleaning the surface?

Or do I need something proper?

Or do I assume the paint shop will do the proper wipe down?
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  #16  
Old 1st March 2014, 22:54
Ollie Ollie is offline
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The bodyshop will (should) wipe everything down with 'spirit wipe' or 'pre paint panel cleaner', and if that doesn't do it they should have something stronger....
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