Scottie's Tribute A352 build

[Danny_HUFC]

Looks awsome Scottie, dont let any little hickup put a downer on what a fantastic job youve done. Although you only have a few little bits now to finish it, remember with kit cars there never finished! You always want to do more!

[Mick O'Malley]

It certainly is Scottie. If I can somehow get my twisted doors to fit like yours I'll be absolutely delighted.

Sorry to hear about the hiccups. I'm going to have a go at drilling my perspex covers today. I'll put Duck Tape patches on and use a cobalt drill very slowly!

Keep your chin up and make hay while the sun shines

[Scottie22]

Thanks Danny and Mick!

I just took Ed's advice and had a practice drilling of holes on the cover I threw away, and without too much care, drilled 5 or 6 holes in it no problem, and this was done in just a few seconds, as I wanted to see what could be done!

So I'm not sure what caused the cover to split in the first place?
I will have to go cap in hand to Chris yet again!

It seemed to me like the cover was under "tension" and the hole was a good excuse to let rip!


[IMG][/IMG]

[8 Valve Ed]

Glad to hear it Scotty, perhaps it's one of those cases where you can be 'too careful'?

Perspex can be unpredictable, Polycarbonate is almost indestructible, I once attacked a piece with a sledgehammer just to prove a point, I couldn't break it no matter how hard I tried. my mates and a couple of onlookers dived for cover, they thought it was ordinary glass because it was shiny new and I put it down so carefully!!! LOL

I tried to glaze my speedo and rev counter with real glass a little while back, total disaster! I ended up with a small piece of perspex which did the job perfectly. I got it from a sign making firm nearby. They didn't even charge me for it! 10 inches by 5.

Chin up, will all come right in the end, you have come too far to take any crap now.

[a big scary monster]

Get it mot'd and I guarantee you will feel much better about any hicups cut knuckles and agro by the 2nd shop window you see your reflection in. Even if it runs like a bag of spanners you will love it again by the time your home.
I can see the news paper headlines now " spy photo reveals hulk hogan to play Steve McQueen in the film of his life!"
Seriously your creation looks very special indeed. Ed.

[Jaguartvr]

It's often better to drill with a blunt drill bit. A sharp drill bit tends to grab perspex or GRP causing it to chip or crack. Also a small 1.5mm drill bit gives a good pilot hole and I find that grp doesn't chip as much if you have drilled a pilot hole first.

[Paul L]

Scottie - Sorry to hear the car is still fighting you all the way to the finish.

Having said that, it does looks absolutely fantastic.



Good luck, Paul.

[Lucky@LeMans]

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

It's often better to drill with a blunt drill bit. A sharp drill bit tends to grab perspex or GRP causing it to chip or crack. Also a small 1.5mm drill bit gives a good pilot hole and I find that grp doesn't chip as much if you have drilled a pilot hole first.

Don't use a blunt drill , that will simply melt its way through and just as likely to crack the plastic.

The secrete is too grind the drill bit with a very shallow angle , so the height from the tip to the outer edge of the drill is less than the thickness of the material being drilled .
Use water to keep it cold and slow speed and it will cut though even the most brittle Perspex without problem. Let it cut at its own rate , don't push on the drill !

[landmannnn]

I find the danger point is when you reach the point of breaking through . A wood bit (the type with a point) and 90 degree cut works well.

[Scottie22]

Thanks for the help fellahs, I particularly liked the "pilot hole" idea, which I normally use, but did not on this occasion!

Also the shallow-angle cut bit, which ought to help.

I will be taking your advice, as at forty quid per side, its an expensive F.U.to make!

[y cymro]

Originally Posted by Scottie22

Thanks for the help fellahs, I particularly liked the "pilot hole" idea, which I normally use, but did not on this occasion!

Also the shallow-angle cut bit, which ought to help.

I will be taking your advice, as at forty quid per side, its an expensive F.U.to make!

As well as the above advice, don't forget to support behind the hole being drilled with a piece of wood or similar.

Manufacturer's advice on machining Perspex here: http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/plas...pex_manual.pdf

[Scottie22]

I still have not got the passengers door right yet, and have done a "tempory fix" on the bonnet split, as it cannot really be seen with the bonnet closed, and the headlight cover I need has not arrived yet.
I have the car booked in for an Mot, but with rain forecast, that may not happen either!

I had a quote for having all four wheels tracked, which was £55, which I thought was expensive, is that normal, or what is the general cost that you guys have come across?


Amusing pic:


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[garyh]

Scottie, just get it done... You've saved millions already. You can be out driving in the countryside soon.

[Scottie22]

If it passes the Mot Gary, I surely will drive it, and the passengers
door is likely to NEVER ever get done!!

[garyh]

Passengers only tell you to slow down...

[8 Valve Ed]

I think the £55 for tracking is probably cheap, but will it be done properly? Not straight forward on a Spit with swing arm suspension.

I would invest the £55 in a tracking plate.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4008.../dp/B0012M9KEC

It's not as good as the original tool I used to have which was stolen... (BASTARDS) But when your car setup is somewhat non standard (drastically lowered?) it allows you to get the optimum settings without a data book and very simple to use.

I first came across this type of gauge at Charlie Oats garage on the A6 at Yelland. They used to assemble new Lotus 7's, Elans, Europas and other Lotus's, it was their only way of setting the front and rear tracking accurately.

You simply drive or push the car straight over the plate on reasonably flat level ground. If the needle moves it needs adjustment in or out, it tells you which. It works just as well on front and back, either side. It automatically compensates for camber. All it does is measure the tyre scrub, you want zero tyre scrub.

[Scottie22]

Gary, its just struck me what you meant, when you said "get it done"

Its not the cost so much as the principle, this bloke charged £60 to do all the caster, camber and tracking, which is fair enough, as that is a lot of fiddly work, but I told him I have set the camber at what I want, and the caster in not adjustable on this car, so all he has to do is one job, the tracking.
So he chews his lip and knocks a fiver off!

I would rather drive round scrubbing out the tyres and re-newing them when they wear out, rather than give that bloke one 'kin
penny of my money!

[garyh]

Don't use that muppet again... you must know someone in the trade? or maybe one can be recommended on this forum.

[jones]

£55 for tracking is going rate around my way for an independent with a hudson laser wheel alignment rig. To make you feel better I had some lower arm bushes replaced on my XF and Jag charged £144 for 4 wheel alignment! After replacing my shocks last weekend that in tomorrow with my local indy and back £55 for alignment.

[Scottie22]

As soon as you mention "Jaguar" you are in financial trouble jonsey! I've had enough of them to have leaned the hard way.

Yes Gary, I spoke to a chap yesterday, who I used to buy tyres from about 35 years ago, he has retired now, but his son now runs a place, and will do the tracking after I get an Mot, so that should sort that one out.

Isn't it odd how things like that just "happen"?


P.S. Thanks for the info Ed, as ever!