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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #361  
Old 22nd April 2012, 11:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davecymru View Post
I have to say that i'm quite getting used to it (don't worry, you'll be there soon!), but i'm glad that i bonded my walls in the way i did in order to get a few cm more on each side!
How'd you do that Dave? Did you fit them flush against the internal frame structure so they widen out as they go forwards?
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  #362  
Old 22nd April 2012, 12:51
GazDavies GazDavies is offline
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I dont know how Dave did his but on my car I have fit the internal panels in following the line of the frame. Not resting on it but just parralel to it. Looks like it has given me an extra 3-4 inches of room down at the bottom where I'm toying with the idea of putting on a few of these for a little more storage
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/L..._Pocket_STPOC3
I should have the car back from the paint shop this week so I will post a few pics before I start on the interior
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  #363  
Old 22nd April 2012, 13:18
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Rather than screwing my side panels on top of the body i simply bonded them behind the top edge of the body, which got me a few extra cm which was just enough to fit the big cobra bucket seats.

As far as storage is concerned, i've found that with the angled cobra seats the areas behind the seats makes perfect storage areas for squishy bags full of "stuff"
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  #364  
Old 24th April 2012, 19:17
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Spent most of today changing my Vitesse differential for a GT6 3.27:1 which will give me another 3.5mph/1000rpm.

I'll be listing my Vitesse 3.89:1 diff on ebay over the next couple of days if anyone with a herald donor is interested in dropping their revs to a more suitable level for modern motoring.



While the diff was out I also welded a couple of lengths of box section into the sides of the lowering block. This was recommended by Phil J as his diff studs were coming loose every time he drove his car. I'd already noticed that my lowering block had distorted when I tightened up the nuts so I think it's something that needs doing (thanks Phil).





I also added a bottom rail and a pair of supporting legs to my fuel tank carrier after reading Tirtone's reply reminding me of the weight of a full tank. I've got to say it feels far more secure now it's welded to the rear chassis extensions as it won't budge a mm - cheers Tony!



Will be looking at the handbrake mechanism tomorrow with any luck...
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  #365  
Old 24th April 2012, 19:24
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Ain't no way that is moving, well done Mr T. Thats what we are all here for, moral support and the two-heads-are-better-than-one approach!

Because of your previous comment about the lowering block, I did the same to mine - It also served to prove that I could easily access it from the wheel arches when the body is on!

Hope the diff is going to get a lick of paint
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  #366  
Old 24th April 2012, 19:32
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I wasn't going to bother painting the diff just in case I end up with paint gumming up something important. I did spend nearly two hours cleaning it today though, it was totally encrusted in oily crud

There is one question I have - the Haynes manual says that there's a drain plug underneath the diff and a filler plug at the side. Both my new and old diffs have the filler plug at the side but neither has a drain plug underneath. Anyone know how you let the old oil out to change it without removing the diff?
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  #367  
Old 25th April 2012, 02:02
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A lot of diffs were top up only and a large syringe and pipe were used to suck it out if a change was felt needed. They thought the oil was good for the life of the unit and only needed topping up if it leaked or weeped a bit.
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  #368  
Old 25th April 2012, 07:20
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Hmm, methinks I'll be changing the diff oil every two years or so. Just in case.
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  #369  
Old 25th April 2012, 17:25
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Made a bit of a start on my handbrake mechanism this afternoon. Even though I've already mounted the handle after a fair bit of chin rubbing I've decided to start at the back and work my way forward. That's today's plan anyway, tomorrow I might go back to working on the bit at the front and try to make them meet in the middle...

Anyway, after speaking to Phil J about the angle of the rear handbrake cable that runs through the compensator, then through the guide tubes (for want of a better description) before attaching to the levers on the brake drums, it's clear that there's an issue with a seriously lowered car in that the angle of this cable means it tends to pull the rear brakes on when you corner, which isn't great for your long-term health and welfare.

So, today I cut the guide tubes off and welded them to some home-made brackets then onto an extension to the frame level with the levers on the drums -







I'm hoping to get a bit more of the mechanism designed and fabricated tomorrow.
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  #370  
Old 25th April 2012, 19:29
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You might have them a bit high. Ideally the end of the curved guide where the cable emerges to head off towards the wheel needs to lie on the axis that the lever end is rotating about as the wheel moves up and down. That is approximately a line joining the centre of the driveshaft universal joint and the front end joint of the trailing arm that is fastened to the chassis outrigger. A quick way to test is to take off the rear spring and raise/lower the wheel and see if the cable becomes slacker or tighter. As you have it at the moment I would expect one side to cancel out the other when the car rolls in cornering, slacken both sides when going through a dip and tighten when airbourne!
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  #371  
Old 25th April 2012, 19:50
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Once I've got it set up so you can actually put the handbrake on I'll try jacking it up and compressing it to see what happens. I've raised them by about the same amount as I've lowered the back (95mm) because with the Vitesse on its standard suspension the original guide tubes were level with the levers on the drums. I can always move them if it's a problem.
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  #372  
Old 27th April 2012, 08:11
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Default Je suis une Rock Ster...



Well, no, not really. I might look like the oldest swinger in town wearing sunglasses at night (and other song lyrics...) but the reality is I seem to have developed 'arc eye'

Yesterday evening my right eye felt a bit tired and gritty, but this morning it's bloodshot, sore, watering and extremely light sensitive. A bit of Googling and it seems it should clear up of its own accord in a day or so.

At the moment I'm sitting indoors full of pain-killers, wearing my shades with the curtains drawn.



I'm not sure why it's happened - I did a fair bit of welding yesterday and maybe the rotary control on my arc activated helmet has been knocked round to an insufficient setting without me noticing. It could also be down to the weather - because it's been pi$$ing down for days I've been grinding off the welds inside the garage rather than outside on the drive. Perhaps that's reflecting too much UV light back at me.

Anyway, there'll be no more progress on the Spyder until my eye's better as it's just too painful to go outside even though it's overcast. Once this clears up I'll not be striking an arc until I'm 100% certain that my head shield is set to 'max' protection and I'll be donning my shades before grinding the welds off.

On a lighter note I'd almost completed my series of levers and shafts that will operate my handbrake before packing up yesterday so it shouldn't take me too long to get it functioning once I'm better.

Last edited by Mister Towed; 27th April 2012 at 08:18..
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  #373  
Old 27th April 2012, 08:39
garyh garyh is offline
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Get well soon, i will now check every time when i am welding that the setting is correct. Hopefully you'll be better for the weekend? gary.
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  #374  
Old 27th April 2012, 08:41
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bad luck matey!
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  #375  
Old 27th April 2012, 08:53
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that looks like the sort of eye infection you get from looking at too many dodgy internet sites.....

get well soon Mr T...
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  #376  
Old 27th April 2012, 09:35
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Thanks guys. Now the pain-killers have kicked in it's bearable. I might just be able to go out into the garage later and have a bit of a fiddle with a few simple jobs that don't require welding. So long as I'm back in bed by the time my wife gets home from work I should still be able to play the sympathy card.
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  #377  
Old 27th April 2012, 10:40
Straight Sixer Straight Sixer is offline
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It's worth making sure your arms/neck are covered up when welding. The same UV rays will burn your skin like a suntan, only it won't go brown, just gets sore. The arc eye will indeed go away after a day or so but You have my sympathy.

Here's some special eye rinse for you

Oops.. sorry that's a bit un-sympathetic

Get well soon
Len.
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  #378  
Old 27th April 2012, 10:49
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Thanks Len.

I do wear flame retardant (tank crew surplus) overalls and gauntlets while welding and grinding, and I don't have any skin irritation. Also it's a bit odd that only one eye is affected. This is leading me to think that it could be conjunctivitis - I seem to recall a spark getting past my acrylic eye shields and landing in my right eye the day before yesterday so I guess it could be that.

Anyway, the urge to go out to the garage and do something in the gloom is becoming irresistible...
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  #379  
Old 27th April 2012, 11:41
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wots all the fuss about ive had it few to many times, a used cold tea bag over the eye works wonders,and get back out with your build MAN

only joking yep its painfull but try the tea bag..
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  #380  
Old 27th April 2012, 11:56
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is that just after, you've made a brew...
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