propshaft

jeremy · #1 8th February 2010, 19:12

Does anyone have pictures of their propshaft fitted from underneath the car?

GreatOldOne · #2 8th February 2010, 19:29

Here you go:

jeremy · #3 8th February 2010, 19:36

Thanks for such a quick response.Those are great pics to see.

peterux · #4 8th February 2010, 20:40

Mine looks the same so I won't post anymore pictures, but my original front flange (i.e. the one that bolts on to the gearbox) was too large and had to be returned to the supplier to be turned down.

...peter

timbo · #5 8th February 2010, 21:42

i had to get a guy in bristol (who modified all the james bond cars) to look at mine and re-adjust it, he reckoned the plastic bit that was supplied via m..... wasn't up to the job...to be fair to him, its cut down the vibrations i was getting a heck of a lot!

jeremy · #6 9th February 2010, 09:56

Have modified the bmw shaft for a temporary measure..did anyone use the circular central mounting bracket, or just went from gearbox to diff with no central support?

GreatOldOne · #7 9th February 2010, 11:13

No central support here...

You've modified the BMW shaft? How?

MartinClan · #8 9th February 2010, 12:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremy

Have modified the bmw shaft for a temporary measure..

My propshaft came from Dave Mac. I chopped the back end off the BMW propshaft and they made me a new one from that plus a new shaft, sliding joint and front UJ. It was all balanced after. There is no centre support. I think Dav Mac has made a few Sporter props now and he was cheaper than Marlin... I have done arround a thousand miles since without the slightest sign of any problems.

I am surprised that you were able to modify the existing BMW propshaft yourself - I always thought it was one of those tricky jobs that wasn't DIY compatible?

Robin

GreatOldOne · #9 9th February 2010, 13:00

That's what I was trying to get at - I thought propshaft modification was a dodgey area for the DIY'er, due to the precision and balance required...

jeremy · #10 9th February 2010, 14:03

I enlisted the help of an experienced engineering welder! however this was always intended as a short term, get the car moving solution..am now going to get a new one made.I have a hybrid car, with e36 engine and e30 diff, so the shaft uses the coupling from both 3 series varients.This is a similar project to www.e3024v.com/project.htm

MartinClan · #11 9th February 2010, 16:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremy

I enlisted the help of an experienced engineering welder! however this was always intended as a short term, get the car moving solution..am now going to get a new one made.I have a hybrid car, with e36 engine and e30 diff, so the shaft uses the coupling from both 3 series varients.This is a similar project to www.e3024v.com/project.htm

Suggest you try Dave Mac if you haven't already chosen someone. www.davemacprops.com. I found them very helpful even to the point of suggesting that they re-use the back end of my old BMW prop to save myself some money!

Robin

Mike · #12 10th February 2010, 08:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

Suggest you try Dave Mac if you haven't already chosen someone. www.davemacprops.com. I found them very helpful even to the point of suggesting that they re-use the back end of my old BMW prop to save myself some money!

Robin

Jeremy
Where do you live?
I would also recommend Dave Mac props - I used him for my Triumphengined /Marina diff Roadster, and my M50/Sierra diff Cabrio. He knows his props inside -out (sad?).
He was aware that the front flange had to be trimmed to stop it fouling, and even supplied me with machined down bolts (balanced!) to fit. And obviously a BMW flange one end and a Ford at the rear.
Originally I discussed the larger diameter BMW prop, but I also wanted a narrower prop as I have reduced the width of my transmission tunnel, and he suggested the Ford prop is good for the Cosworth with 300BHP- good enough for me.
He also advise going all new, as the saving for the re-usable UJ was minor. Total cost £150.
Comes well recommended

PS - We tried welding a shorterned prop, using a lathe to try and keep it straight, but the results were awful!! It did not even rotate true - let alone in balance. Hence Dave Mac twice!!
Mike

jeremy · #13 10th February 2010, 09:21

Mike, thanks for that,I am in northern ireland,so will have to go locally.

Mike · #14 10th February 2010, 09:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremy

Mike, thanks for that,I am in northern ireland,so will have to go locally.

I am sure Dave Mac would offer a postal service, and his turnaround is quick if necessary.
Even if you choose to go locally, I suggest you give John Mac a call (tel 024 7688 3239- he is vey approachable and may well offer you some good advice if you explain what you want to do - he advised me NOT to re-use the rubber doughnut to reduce vibration, as it is only designed to run at 1-2 degrees out of straight, and would be destroyed quickly if the engine/prop/diff arrangement was slightly offset. He also added a splined section to accommodate any minor changes in length due to torque movement of the diff.
He does nothing but propshafts - so he is a real specialist.
I take the view that given the money I am spending on my car safety/reliability critical items are worth a few pounds more - it is usually cheaper in the long run.
Whatever yiou choose, good luck with the rest of the Sportster
Mike