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Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build |
11th June 2015, 19:38
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It's looking really good Scottie I'd love to see it in the flesh one day?
Ed is right about the castor settings I know cos mine are way out but decided to leave them until the car is built with the full weight of the body/frame etc. on the car
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11th June 2015, 19:52
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Hey deggsy, what are the down-sides of having the castor angle too far out?
This area is something I'm not too familiar with.
Where are you based?
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11th June 2015, 20:34
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If the castor is too steep (too vertical or past that) the steering won't self centre and at speed becomes (dangerously) unstable. If the castor is too great, the steering becomes too stable, heavy and less responsive.
The angle is relative to the road surface, so lowering the front or back relative to the other end can affect the castor quite a bit. That's why you should have the car in average trim, usual level of fuel and an average person weight in the drivers seat etc.
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11th June 2015, 20:52
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Scottie are those sidewindows fixed?
If so,where do you put your right arm??????
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11th June 2015, 20:55
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I may have got away with it then Ed, as I have lowered the front and rear about the same, so I should not have affected the castor too much?
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11th June 2015, 21:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie22
I may have got away with it then Ed,
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My guess is that the chassis is exactly level with the road in your case Scottie!
It's quite easy to check without any special gear, if you take a brake calliper off, and screw two bolts back where the calliper attaches, with the car level (or as it would be if it were on it's tyres), place a small plumb rule against the bolts, they should be vertical with the steering straight ahead.
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12th June 2015, 06:18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8 Valve Ed
My guess is that the chassis is exactly level with the road in your case Scottie!
It's quite easy to check without any special gear, if you take a brake calliper off, and screw two bolts back where the calliper attaches, with the car level (or as it would be if it were on it's tyres), place a small plumb rule against the bolts, they should be vertical with the steering straight ahead.
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I got that wrong...
The two bolts should be at the castor angle. Sorry.
This is based on the two bolts being drilled and tapped at the same alignment as the top and bottom pivot points, which they are in most cases. This tip applies to most cars. I have a small level which has a rotating bubble at one end, I simply set the bubble to the castor angle then place it against the two bolts. It may not be perfect but I don't believe other methods are perfect either, except perhaps on a new car, in clinical conditions. I believe with care, my method is close enough to get the setting within acceptable tolerances, and definitely out of the danger zone.
To simplify this, think of the headstock of a pushbike, it leans backwards, also the forks are bent so the wheel is in front of the line through the headstock, that is the castor. It's what helps the wheels self centre and keeps the car stable, preventing wandering.
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11th June 2015, 21:00
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Rene, the side windows are bolted to the door with six bolts.
Although it only takes a few minutes to take the window off, as Steve McQueen did, because he lived in California where it never rained much.
In England we usually put both hands on the steering wheel when we drive, but it sounds like in Holland you hang one arm out of the window? :-)
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11th June 2015, 21:13
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Usually put my elbow on the edge of the door,my hand can still reach the steering wheel.........must do something to look cool............
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11th June 2015, 21:26
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Looking cool is what its all about Rene, which is why McQueen had one of these cars!
Take a look at this pic, there is a really cool place to put that arm..........
[IMG] [/IMG]
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11th June 2015, 21:35
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Scottie Ed answered your question for me (clever s@d) that's why I am leaving setting mine up until its fully built as I've also lowered mine. any adjustments to the ride height will require the settings to be checked. I am based in South wales
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11th June 2015, 21:39
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LOL, On the rare occasions I know the answer to a question I can't keep my fingers off the keyboard!
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11th June 2015, 21:44
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I like the side window chrome trim exactly what I am planning to do to mine great minds think alike wot? though I am planning on using a different windscreen.
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11th June 2015, 22:00
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What screen are you going to use then?
All of the ones I thought of, or other people thought of, were about 5 or 6 inches too wide, which is why I had to make my own!
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11th June 2015, 22:42
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Hillman minx rear screen and the nice man in the scrapyard even cur out the frame for me bit of work to modify as yours was but hopefully I'll have a nice curved screen at the end of it???
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11th June 2015, 22:47
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Ed you under estimate you're knowledge I agree totally with your explanation mine would have been more long winded and not quite as clear nuf said
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11th June 2015, 22:48
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another typo cur should be cut????
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12th June 2015, 06:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deggsy
another typo cur should be cut????
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I blame the auto correct, in my opinion it causes more errors than it fixes, because it inserts correctly spelt, therefore not highlighted words. That means you have to be much more careful when proof reading a post. If the typo's or errors were highlighted they would be easier to spot and correct with the right word. The auto correct won't be a success until it becomes context aware.
Also, for some reason I don't understand, I can miss a mistake or wrong word before I make the post, but is becomes visible to me once it's actually posted, so I now always proof read again after posting. They don't make it easy!
I am tempted to turn off the auto correct but for some reason I don't?
Sorry for rant!
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12th June 2015, 06:21
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I wouldn't get too hung up on tracking/castor/camber 'issues' Scottie, just get it on the road and see how it feels.
Mine's been on the road for almost two years now and covered about 6,000 miles. I kept the castor angle as it left the factory and put a bit of toe in on the back wheels and a bit of toe out on the fronts (adjusting the back to have a bit less and the front to have a bit more after a couple of test drives) and it handles, steers and stops sweetly. It hasn't even worn the knobbly bits off the tyres yet - these cars are very light and don't put much strain on the tyres. If you had a big, heavy saloon body and the car leaned in corners then the suspension geometry would clearly be critical, but in a low, light rollerskate of a car it doesn't seem to make much difference.
Now get it to the MOT station!
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12th June 2015, 07:49
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Perfectly plausible I'll use that excuse as well.
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