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http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-3-sand-heat-and-nipples/ http://www.angloscotabrasives.co.uk/ sell plans, kits, and parts etc. |
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Chassis is now POR'ed, and i thought i would see what the top coat looks like.
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_0085.jpg http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_0086.jpg Next Sunday i will undercoat and continue cleaning parts. |
I bet seeing just one part in red gives you a real sense that progress is being made. :cool:
You have spent a lot of time getting the chassis right & I'm sure it will look great in colour. Looking forward to seeing this come together, Paul. :) |
Yes it does Paul, sometimes you just need to see a part finished... I have all new doughnuts, bolts etc... But I must concentrate on trying to do things well. I am looking forward to making the floor pans and bulkhead.
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Hopefully you've bought some good donuts, there are a lot of bad ones around and if they split the failing drive shaft can do a lot of damage!
The advice on the Triumph forums is not to use the pattern versions even though it's very tempting to do so. On the Rimmer Bros site, genuine donuts are £186 each rather than £33 for the pattern! That's why Canley do a CV joint replacement shaft (very expensive!) and various people have engineered their own. Apart from any other considerations it's much less prone to vibration. Some (like the Canley conversion) use the original hub and bearing. http://www.tengaston.plus.com/Vitds1.htm Others adopt the Rover 100/MGF bearing and hub http://www.gt6.ca/josh/cv_rotoflex.html |
Mmmm, doughnuts...
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I know you make sense M, but I will stick with the doughnuts for now. If they last a thousand miles... That may well be a couple of years. If I were to change, I would go for Canleys solution as its all sorted.
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I love the sight of painted suspension in the mornings.
Great job. |
Chassis now has coat of red oxide as well now, next week i will give it a second coat. Unless someone says that is no t needed?
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_0087.jpg Can't wait to see Ruby Red topcoat. |
Lovely. Something very satisfying about a bare primed chassis. Well done. You must be pleased.
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After all this time, its nice to see anything other than rust... what was the moedia that you use for shotblasting, Ox?
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JBlast aluminium oxide - I think it was supafine but I will have to check. I bought it from Frosts.
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Fibreglass body
Am I alright leaving the shell outside all winter if I cover with tarpaulin? I see Paul has to keep his car outside, are there any other issues to cover...
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Chassic looks great, its the only way i think, it hard work , but the day you want to sell it, you can add another grand on the price as this is what the customer wants to see.well done
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Thanks Mike, I won't sell it... My wife has promised it to our daughter when she gets married... Hopefully I will get a good ten years of owning it.
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I decided to get some bits shotbasted as i was getting frustrated with the speed at which i could get stuff done... £120 got my 4 wheels done and most of the suspension parts, enough to see me through to the new year. It means that i can hopefully have a rolling chassis by the spring. I did spray some of the topcoat on this afternoon, but it was going a bit wrinkly... is this because it was to cold?
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_0088.jpg http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/...4/IMG_0089.jpg |
I like the colour, and I love the look of blasted and primed parts.
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Its the way they start off rusty and it comes up so clean... and a bit pitted!
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Hi Gary,
Looks like getting someone else to blast the parts will save you time in the long run. Sorry can't help you with the paint question, but I'm wondering about the temperature outside myself. I was also hoping someone would have answered this question too... Quote:
So far, I'd say my light blue gel coat has faded a little, but not much. And for a while the fibre glass was out in the open with no cover at all! ( The cover was on the rolling chassis and frame work. ) Good luck, Paul. :) |
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