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Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build. |
28th January 2012, 17:26
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Jeremy,
I got some and it is excellent! Thanks - John
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30th January 2012, 17:22
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Progress!
Well, I have achieved today, not a lot but progress none the less. I am "working from home" prior to departing for Canada for a month so into the garage! I have finished the cover plate for the access hole I cut it is attached with 4mm rivnuts with some neoprene strip to cushion it. Needs painting etc but I think it looks fine. I have cut an identical cover for the other side which has not had the hole cut out yet.
cover plate finished by oldpropuk, on Flickr
I also managed to finish the brake master cylinder/servo assembly and fitting. I used M* machine screws to attache the MC in the end, the countersink for an M10 head is huge. This is a 20mm diameter Cortina MC so it will be interesting to see how it works when I get it plumbed!
Cortina MC fitted by oldpropuk, on Flickr
brake MC fitted by oldpropuk, on Flickr
Sorry about the poor quality, Iphone camera is good but only in good light! - John
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30th January 2012, 19:30
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Looking good!
It will be interesting to see how the Cortina MC peforms, it looks identical!
Working in a cold garage will be good practise for your Canadian trip!!
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5th February 2012, 13:43
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Well,
Thats it! Off to Canada tomorrow so the Marlin is on hold. Managed to recondition both of the rear calipers this weekend. Both of the front ones had the bleed valves already broken off. I have never had any luck removing broken bleed screws in the past and have tried several methods so I guess on my return I will look for some recon ones outright or to buy some used ones and recon them myself. Bleed valves/screws/nipples are one of my pet gripes actually. They are universally underengineered. Manuafcturers know that once a car gets older, maintenance slips and these little bu**ers will seize solid.
Next tasks are to finish off the pedal box, then finish the suspension fitting and add the brakes.
Oh well, hopefully it will be warmer when I return in March! John
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5th February 2012, 14:52
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Location: South Wales
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John, try Bigg Red for bleed screws. I had a new set when I re-built my calipers with their kit and they only cost a few quid each
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5th February 2012, 21:59
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Morris, thanks for that. I got my seal kits from them, I actually didn't know that they did the bleed screws - obvious now you mention it!
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6th February 2012, 10:14
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I would send one of your old bleed screws to them to match up though. the ones they initially sent me, though their data said it matched the donor car, were too big so I had to send one off. either that or the measurments
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11th March 2012, 09:27
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More progress and HELP!!!
Hi all, back from Canada for a bit and am making steady progress, pictures to follow later today when I take some!
I have completed the clutch MC assemble and am really pleased with it. The pedal box is offered up so that I can get on with plumbing the copper piping.
One of the big problems I have is that, having bought this kit as a collection of parts (i didnt strip the donor) I am having a big issue with finding/identifying bits. I suspect there will be many more cries for help on this subject!
One issue I have at the moment is with the diff which I am just about to fit. I have found all the Marlin brackets and worked out where they go, there are no bolts but I can sort that. The large circular rubber mounting is puzzling me. It has already been fitted (not by me) and is new but it has an oval hole not a round one. I can see some logic in that but in what orientation should it be fitted? The Bentley manual shows a round hole but does indicate that the mounting needs to be orientated in a particular way. Mine does not look like theirs.
I think it is ok as it is. The long axis of the hole is horisontal and the bush has a sort of "arrow" shape which is pointing (more or less) straight up.
Does this sound right?
IMG_0571[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
Thanks for the help - John
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11th March 2012, 10:11
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IIRC John, I put mine in with the arrow pointing upward - So I think you'll be OK with it as it is.
Hang on...
Here you go:
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11th March 2012, 11:32
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Thanks Jason,
Yes it seems logical doesnt it! The trouble is, the more you think about these things the more doubts start to creep in! - John
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11th March 2012, 14:47
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OK so here is the latest! I seem to be in the middle of several things and in danger of completing none of them!
Clutch MC is ftted and i am really pleased with it. I have trial fitted the pedal box so that I can start the plumbing.
IMG_0574[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
IMG_0575[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
IMG_0572[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
I have two problems. As I said earlier, I didnt strip the donor and just have several boxes of bits. Some bits I am having trouble identifying and some I cant find! I need the pulse counter for the diff and it looks like I need the whole of the innards of the rear handbrake setup, I have an incomplete box of bits!
[IMG]
IMG_0578[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
IMG_0576[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
Oh and all 4 calipers are painted and reconned! - John
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11th March 2012, 20:33
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Coming along nicely!
Hopefully you'll find your speed sensor in the box of electrical bits, maybe?
It's a round white plastic 'thingy' with two prongs, one longer than the other. And a metal plate to hold in the hole in the diff.
I mounted my steering rack with some tubes and bolts supplied by Marlin like this....
Steering Column by marlinpeter, on Flickr
It's to drop the steering wheel down a bit to give a better driving position. (but it was a subject of much debate amongst builders on the forum a few years ago!) You may have the tubes in your box-o-bits?
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11th March 2012, 20:44
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Hi Peter,
Actually I do have the tubes I think. I didnt put any thought into the steering column because its just stuck in to see that it all fits. Thanks for that.
Believe it or not I am toying with the idea of buying ANOTHER E30 525! I know it sounds crazy but if it has the BBS alloy wheels and with all the other bits I need it would probably pay for itself plus, I could fit the running engine and gearbox which would speed things up and I could take my time with the rebuild of mine (and, if I am honest, have a pattern to copy - a bare engine and a big box of anonymous bits is bloody daunting!). So, the hunt is on for a sub £500 car....!
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2nd April 2012, 20:19
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rear axle woes!
I thought I would move my discussion re my halfshaft problems etc to this thread for continuity!
Right, here we go! I fitted both halfshafts (with some effort to get the splines to engage far enough to get the nut on to pull them in) only to find that the outboard gaiters and clips will not fit in the wishbone casting
IMG_0607[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
Now, this is a pain in the ass. the halfshafts cam with the secondhand kit i bought and had already been rebuilt, obviously with a "will fit" kit. As I see it the options are either to remove the halfshafts and source and fit the correct gaiter or to fit one of the stretch gaiters that can be fitted without stripping the halfshaft like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CV-BOOT-GA...item2a1b91292c
I would prefer to fit a proper BMW gaiter but I am a bit reticent about pulling the inner CV joint off. I am sure to wreck it...has anyone done this successfully? Any help welcome!
Another small issue is the large gap between the chassis lugs and the large rubber mounting on the diff. Have i missed a spacer or something?
[IMG]
IMG_0605[1] by oldpropuk, on Flickr[/IMG]
Looks like being a busy Easter weekend! - John
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2nd April 2012, 20:38
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Re the diff, that's exactly how mine is - so I wouldn't worry about it John.
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2nd April 2012, 22:21
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well, that is comforting Jason but it does seem a bit odd doesn't it!
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3rd April 2012, 07:17
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Yes, it is.
I assume it's down to the fact that the diff is at a slight angle, Marlin have just welded the hangers either side of the cross member above, and that to make a spacer correctly for it you need what would be a thick angled washer...
It won't move forward or aft due to the mounting at front.
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3rd April 2012, 07:22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oaktree11
Another small issue is the large gap between the chassis lugs and the large rubber mounting on the diff. Have i missed a spacer or something?
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As I recall I actually packed mine out with some thick washers. I don't remember there being a need for them to be tapered in any way. But it was about 6 years ago.....
Robin
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3rd April 2012, 07:45
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I agree that it is pretty solidly mounted, its just bad practise to leave a big gap. I might measure it carefully and try to fashion a stiff rubber spacer?
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3rd April 2012, 15:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinClan
As I recall I actually packed mine out with some thick washers. I don't remember there being a need for them to be tapered in any way. But it was about 6 years ago.....
Robin
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Me too!
I think the gap is to suit the different types BMW diff's available.
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