new miglia builder - Page 2

mas123mas · #26 17th February 2014, 01:34

Engine and Chassis looking good, was there many repairs to do, mine needed new rails (one was missing), outrigger (two fell off), plus rear extensions where completely rotten.

Hopefully get mine painted in the next few weeks then I can start to build. Have you got your bodywork yet?

Thurcroft flyer · #27 17th February 2014, 01:37

had trouble loading photos but I think I have got there in the end, just to show you progress so far, next suspension and brakes, parts on bench waiting to be fitted, just got to make time to get in garage

Thurcroft flyer · #28 17th February 2014, 01:45

no body work as yet , car was a so called restoration project that had been stood for a couple of years, but offside centre chassis member had been put in at an angle to the corresponding rail so I fitted a new one, just stripping down parts assessing condition, and changing as required. I am going to see if I can order the frame, and bulk head first. maybe put a deposit on the body, as I don't have a lot of storage space in garage or on drive as we have a car , works van, and a transit motorhome

swifty · #29 17th February 2014, 06:40

Hi Thurcroft
Nice looking stright 6, did you have to do much refurb work to it. I have just stripped a straight 6 down and it needs a few new parts replacing along with some machine work which i have asked for a quote with a local engine machine shop.

Thurcroft flyer · #30 17th February 2014, 15:13

I bought the vitesse as a so called older restoration project, and although some parts of the car have been refurbed I don't think they have been done to a good standard.Removed head to inspect engine, six new +20 thou pistons fitted, new timing chain sump gaskets etc, so looks like block was overhauled and then they just stuck the old head back on, with out cleaning up. same with suspension, looks like new bushes fitted, but wrong bolts have been fitted, so threads don't even go in to plastic part of nyloc nuts, going to have to strip check and replace as required, just for peace of mind.hopefully keep the cost down, I don't want to build a show car, more of an authentic 50's speedster, and keep the essence of the triumph mechanicals. to me that's what makes the cars different, I am not a hot hatch fan, more a wow the looks nice, and different what is it.

rattler · #31 18th February 2014, 01:29

hi looking good rattler

Thurcroft flyer · #32 20th February 2014, 22:35

is it just me having problems logging back on to this site or has something happened...????????

JG · #33 20th February 2014, 23:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thurcroft flyer

is it just me having problems logging back on to this site or has something happened...????????

Not just you, we are experiencing an issue at the moment

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...2610#post52610

We have implemented a workaround to get round logging in etc but hoping for a permanent fix shortly.

Cheers, John

Thurcroft flyer · #34 27th February 2014, 21:36

as anybody tried de-rating the rear transverse spring on the vitesse chassis by removing leaf springs. I did it years ago on my midge to take the camber out of the rear wheels, worked well, and handled great,I just can't remember exactly which leaf springs I removed, as I followed the build manual, although I remember it wasn't correct and I had to play around with it to find best position. wondered if someone can save me a bit time, with any guidance thanks

Paul L · #35 28th February 2014, 06:19

Thurcroft Flyer - Have you read Mister Towed's Sammio build thread?

He also starts removing extra leaf springs from Page 2 of his "On the road" thread.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=4482

Hope that helps, Paul.

PS
Good luck with your build.

Thurcroft flyer · #36 28th February 2014, 13:59

thanks for that info Paul I will have a look on his site

rattler · #37 28th February 2014, 15:42

hi tt I changed to swing spring with 1 inch lowering block wheels look spot on but the suspension seems very stiff but will not know till I drive the car .just waiting for a slot in the spray shop .wont be long now I also cut 65 mm off front springs rattler

Mister Towed · #38 1st March 2014, 09:55

Rear leaf spring is very easy to 'adjust' by removing/adding leaves to alter the ride and ride height.

I started by taking out the top three 'loose' leaves and putting an 80mm lowering block between the spring and diff. I also cut down the top three springs and used them as shims under the spring to lower it even further -

I soon removed the three shims as it was obvious that it would be too low even before I fitted the body.

Once the car was on the road I found that, even though it looked great, the car was too low both front and rear and kept fouling the ground.

It was also rock solid at the front and just too firm at the back for my liking, so I set about making some changes.

I replaced the 175/70/14 tyres with higher profile 175/80/14's and changed the 95mm cut down 220lb Vitesse front springs for 150lb Mk1 Spitfire fronts cut down by 25mm and a thicker arb, which raised and softened the front.

I then tried various combinations at the back - removing the next three leaves in the stack, switching the 80mm lowering block initially for a 50mm, then just the three shims (15mm) -

I eventually settled on replacing two of the last three removed leaves with no lowering block at all. This has made the ride and handling spot on, it's compliant with no discernible body roll, it's given me enough ground clearance and left the stance looking not too shabby either -

Good luck!

Thurcroft flyer · #39 1st March 2014, 11:49

thanks lads for that info I will take it all on board, and thanks for the photos mr towed your car does look special sat parked with the run of the mill square boxes, it sits really well.

Thurcroft flyer · #40 2nd June 2014, 22:58

well after deliberation, and trial and error with rear spring, I decided to go with swing spring and 1 inch lowering block at rear, with 1 inch lowered front coil springs from canleys.