Hopefully improving a tatty car : How To

WorldClassAccident · #1 5th May 2016, 10:08

Hopefully you are all aware that various bits of my car have been painted by various people at various times. No-one is going to get named or shamed as most of what I will show you is down to how I use the car and general damage over time.

My hope is that I can show you the defects and how I approached fixing them without doing the proper thing and getting a full respray or a professional body shop involved. Hopefully you will also share your knowledge and wisdom so we all learn.

This thread is for positive advice, help and facts. I can start another thread for rants and opinions if necessary.

I haven't yet decided which order to approach the tasks butI will show you the issues I want to address. When offering advice please can you specify which issue you reply refers to so I don't get confused.

1) Stone Chips - Loads of these to practice on so might try various different techniques to see which work best. I will start with less prominent chips so my early mistakes aren't too obvious

20160505_104609 by WCA!, on Flickr

2) Scuff marks - I blame the driver for these. There are a couple but this is the most obvious just behind the rear wheel

20160505_104424 by WCA!, on Flickr

3) Gravel Rash (Heat damage?) - Just in front of the rear wheel. The reason I suggest possible heat damage is because this is where the side exhaust used to exit.

20160505_104536 by WCA!, on Flickr

4) Scratches - Bigger than a stone chip but smaller than the scuff. This is also on the metal boot if that makes a difference

20160505_104511 by WCA!, on Flickr

5) Dent in the door - pushed the passenger door open while sat inside and it hit a wheel barrow handle and dented. Bugger. not really a paint issue but see point 6.

20160505_104639 by WCA!, on Flickr

6) Crack in the paint above the dent.

20160505_104447 by WCA!, on Flickr

7) Paint anomalies. Various little defects like screw heads or fish heads showing in certain light. I will get the individual photos for the defects as I try each one.

20160503_173808 by WCA!, on Flickr

WorldClassAccident · #2 5th May 2016, 12:35

5 - The Dent

The plan was to carefully remove the door card and gently push the dent out from behind.

The reality was...

You can get special trim prying tools that gently lever the little 'christmas tree' fasteners or you can use a big screwdriver

20160505_125643 by WCA!, on Flickr

These christmas tree fasteners are extremely tight and even with my most careful prying it wasn't possible to extract them properly.

20160505_130701 by WCA!, on Flickr

This led to panel damage. I would advise anyone trying this to get one of the special prying tools to avoid this

20160505_130705 by WCA!, on Flickr

Some did come out nicely so I am not a a total oaf

20160505_130708 by WCA!, on Flickr

And this lets you see how the door card is created. The top of the door is the original BMW molding covered with thin foam and fresh leather. This is then fixed to a plywood panel for the main part which is foamed and covered with a contrasting leather. Notice the metal bracket that pushes part of the wooden panel further forward. This gives a nice depth and shaping to the door rather than the normal kit car flat bit of wood effect. Notice only one christmas tree left in the panel so I guess I am a near total oaf

20160505_130729 by WCA!, on Flickr

Carefully pull back as little of the plastic liner as possible but enough to allow access to the back of the dent

20160505_131218 by WCA!, on Flickr

And typically the dent is right behind that re-enforcing / crash protection bar. There is just room to squeeze my thumb in behind and push it a bit.

20160505_131522 by WCA!, on Flickr

The result isn't perfect (it never was going to be with me trying it for the first time) but is a great improvement and I had to carefully line up the reflections of the brick edging to be able to see it at all

20160505_131438 by WCA!, on Flickr

I can conclude that this piece was a success in removing the dent.

It has also given me a new topic - How to repair and fit a door card

landmannnn · #3 5th May 2016, 12:40

In most cases a bit of paint applied with a brush, let it dry, put another bit of paint on etc until the level is right. Rub it flat with 1000 plus and then go coarse, medium, fine with cutting compound on a DA sander.

Not much different from the pros, they have halogen lamps to speed up drying and titanium blocks to make the blobs flat.

WorldClassAccident · #4 5th May 2016, 12:48

^^^ Can you edit that to show which issue number it applies to, or all of the ones it applies to.

Thanks

WorldClassAccident · #5 5th May 2016, 16:18

8) Repair the door panel

The current plan is to use the material in the photo and some resin to patch the broken bits if wood and hold the fixings in the right place.

Can anyone tell me if this is likely to work or suggest something better please?

EDIT Added photo

20160505_171657 by WCA!, on Flickr

IanA · #6 5th May 2016, 17:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident

8) Repair the door panel
The current plan is to use the material in the photo and some resin to patch the broken bits if wood and hold the fixings in the right place.
Can anyone tell me if this is likely to work or suggest something better please?

For #8 Door Panel repair- I would use some Isopon filler- the one with glass strands in it. It sets very hard, should stick to those rough wooden edges and be easy to re-drill to accept the new Christmas tree fasteners. Not sure if they are meant to be re-usable anyway.

IanA · #7 5th May 2016, 17:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by landmannnn

In most cases a bit of paint applied with a brush, let it dry, put another bit of paint on etc until the level is right. Rub it flat with 1000 plus and then go coarse, medium, fine with cutting compound on a DA sander.Not much different from the pros, they have halogen lamps to speed up drying and titanium blocks to make the blobs flat.

#2 Scuff marks & #4 Scratches

I agree- build up with thin layers and be ready to sand/buff down to the correct level. Obviously that will leave a paint surface exposed rather than a lacquered one- which is where professional technique comes in to allow them to blow in some lacquer.

Jaguartvr · #8 5th May 2016, 17:41

i would mop the whole body and then check the defects. Then sand and prepare them as best I could and then take it to a painter to finish.

WorldClassAccident · #9 5th May 2016, 19:22

8 Door Panel - I am using new Christmas Trees. Matting rather than chopped strand so should set hard the same. I will have to poke the fasteners through the mat before I stick it in place as I don't want to remove the 'nice' side of the panel which I would have to if I wanted to push the fasteners through.

JaguarTVR - This is a learning exercise for me. I want to see what I can do myself and let others learn from my mistakes. I use the car too much to worry that much, new chips and scrapes will continue to appear and i am not having it resprayed each month. The joys of a 200 mile commute on motorways fairly regularly. Having said that, I am taking it to a bodyshop to mop it properly on Saturday

2 & 4 - I saw one guy on the internet who overcame the lack of finish on the paint after little repairs by mixing 80% paint with 20% clear coat. It wasn't perfect but is was good enough for the Porsche that was his daily driver and a customer AMG G-Wagon that had been keyed down the length of the side but the owner didn't want a full respray. We will see.

Tomorrow I will see if I can mix resin and attach the matting successfully

Lucky@LeMans · #10 5th May 2016, 20:40

I think that most people who use their cars on a regular basis will expect to see the odd scratch , blemish and ding , its to be expected.
I have a lot of time for people who actually go out and enjoy their cars whether it be a kit car , classic etc . I'm a regular at Prescott hill Climb and Shesley Walsh , I love the classic and vintage days when you can see cars worth a fortune being driven to the limits ( sometimes beyond ! ) by their enthusiastic owners. They really get the most out of ownership and showing them off but few are in mint / showroom condition. They look better for it in my opinion and most of the owners are happy to chat at length about how much they get out of their hobby.
I'm getting close to finishing my 49 Triumph Roadster, it won't be a show car , I wouldn't want that . I'll be happy to drive it as and when and I know others will see it for what it is .

WorldClassAccident · #11 5th May 2016, 20:54

I have a lot of time for people who actually go out and enjoy their cars whether it be a kit car , classic etc .

That's me

This thread is about living with the damage and helping other people who might have similar problems

Lucky - you got it bang on right!

Roadster · #12 5th May 2016, 21:11

Evening Nick this one is right up your alley

I've never used this method but it will leave no marks

https://youtu.be/y9OGa9vB42Q

WorldClassAccident · #13 5th May 2016, 21:32

The heat/cold method works on single skinned panels where there is enough stress in the panel for it to pop.

In a flat panel dented by something it is less likely to work.

I have googled lots:-)

lancelot link · #14 7th May 2016, 06:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans

I think that most people who use their cars on a regular basis will expect to see the odd scratch , blemish and ding , its to be expected.
I have a lot of time for people who actually go out and enjoy their cars whether it be a kit car , classic etc . I'm a regular at Prescott hill Climb and Shesley Walsh , I love the classic and vintage days when you can see cars worth a fortune being driven to the limits ( sometimes beyond ! ) by their enthusiastic owners. They really get the most out of ownership and showing them off but few are in mint / showroom condition. They look better for it in my opinion and most of the owners are happy to chat at length about how much they get out of their hobby.
I'm getting close to finishing my 49 Triumph Roadster, it won't be a show car , I wouldn't want that . I'll be happy to drive it as and when and I know others will see it for what it is .

Agree totally ...I much prefer a 'lived in' car to a showhome styled car every time ...unfortunately investment ownership in more recent years has seen some cars over restored which is a shame ...They are a bit like a naturally beautiful woman who's gone overboard on the fake tan , hair extensions and too much makeup ...

WorldClassAccident · #15 7th May 2016, 07:23

Lancelot - not much chance of mine ever looking over restored while I am doing the work.

Very much a learning experience and sharing my success and failures as I learn so others can do the good bits and avoid the mistakes.

Lots of professionals doing how to guides where they have years of experience and don't point out some of the basic stuff that might go wrong.

Paul L · #16 7th May 2016, 07:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident

...Lots of professionals doing how to guides where they have years of experience...

I know this doesn't help you...

But Roadster posted this clip on my build thread of a painter making it all look very easy.

I certainly enjoyed watching it and don't let how it starts off fool you.

https://youtu.be/E3UCEbGZmz0

Good luck, Paul.

WorldClassAccident · #17 7th May 2016, 11:41

Massive thanks to Jeff this morning. Mopped the car and even let me have a go. Great conversation and advice. He couldn't be more helpful and even when I was just leaving he ran back out of the workshop with some cleaner to get the overspray off my tyres

20160507_113329 by WCA!, on Flickr

It looks so much better than at the show where it was unwashed, unpolished and looked unloved. It really was shown at its worse but now looks really good.

20160507_123021 by WCA!, on Flickr

Stragnely the numberplate looks twisted in this. I will check and straighten it as required

20160507_123034 by WCA!, on Flickr

20160507_123044 by WCA!, on Flickr

Jeff even ran around with a fine brush and filled most of the stone chips and scrapes. This means points 1, 2 and 4 are almost perfect now. I will take some detailed photos when the car cools enough to work on.

Enjoying the sunny south coast for now

WorldClassAccident · #18 7th May 2016, 12:39

8) Panel repair

First gather the materials and equipment you need. Resin in the measuring cup, hardening agent in the little bottle, an old paint brush to throw away after the job and some rubber gloves to protect my dainty hands. You can also see the off cuts of fibre matting in place on the door already.

20160507_131447 by WCA!, on Flickr

Next measure some resin. I wasn't sure how much so started with 50ml which seemed about right. Add a splash or hardener. Last time I was working with glass and resin I added too much hardener and the stuff set solid in about 5 minutes. This time I don't think I added enough but that shouldn't be a problem as long as it hardens enough in the next 24 hours. It helps that it is a hot sunny day today.

20160507_131827 by WCA!, on Flickr

Paint some resin onto the wood under the mat so it stick in place. I then brushed the resin onto the mat. In fact, it was more a dripping onto the matt and prodding to get it to soak in. It was difficult where some bits were over the leather and others straight to the wood but enough resoin and prodding and it all seemed to stick

20160507_132832 by WCA!, on Flickr

This end of the panel the fasteners were surrounded by leather so I made sure the mat extended in to be bonded to the wood. I also had one bit left over so put a brace holding the top and bottom of the panels together

20160507_132828 by WCA!, on Flickr

I will go back tomorrow and see what it looks like.

Jeff H · #19 7th May 2016, 15:21

Your car mopped up well Nick,

Don't forget "wax on wax off"

WorldClassAccident · #20 7th May 2016, 15:55

8) Panel Repair

The panel had set nicely when I got back from my ride so I decided to fit it today. The top black section is the original BMW molding covered in leather. This has a U shaped channel at the top that pushes tight over the top over the metal door and against the window rubber. A git to fit but easier if you get the front bit fitted with the back lifted up a boit then lower the back of the panel gradually making sure the U shaped bit is still over the top of the door edge.

You can see how the window rubber got tucked behind the panel but using a small screwdrive it was lifted back into the correct place. Also notice the bottom of the panel is still lose but the bridging bit of mat I used is keeping it loosly in place.

20160507_163132 by WCA!, on Flickr

Miraculously all of the fixings still lined up exactly with the holes they should be pushed into

20160507_163249 by WCA!, on Flickr

A rubber mallet wrapped in a towel made sure the panel was firmly fitted

20160507_163955 by WCA!, on Flickr

Task 8 Completed!!