I did manage to get the main body bonded to the spitfire shell. It still requires a few tweeks but I have come up with a few ideas which i will try out when home. The Build without the doors I believe on a good doner could be done very quickly much faster than the sammio spyder. However I believe the 30th of July deadline I gave myself is coming up fast and the Alpha wont be ready
Here are some of the photos showing the body bonded.
The last photo shows a little of the hinge arrangement more to follow on that and the bonnet arrangement, I started but not finished before going back to work. As for the rear arches i will wait until i have fitted the bonnet and set the ride height of the car before the grinder comes out for the last time. Hopfully more to follow next month.
That does look good but 14's or 15's definitely fill the arches that little bit better -
The gearing is raised depending on tyre/profile choice, but not by as much as you'd think. Going from a 165/80/13 to a 175/80/14 only increases the speed for a given rpm by 7%, which will usually make the speedo read more accurately as they tend to under read by around 10% as standard. The lighter bodywork means that the car won't struggle on hills either.
Well I am back with some updates on the Alpha hopefully for all of this month now the internet and computer are sorted fingers crossed. I also thankyou Wharfdale for the link for 13inch wheels and Mister Towed for the link for wheels and tires and I must say your sammio build was the inspiration to start my build.
So after a month at work and enjoying a lie in a knock at the door from the postman, brought me a nice suprise from Mike at Sammio cars. With that it was time to get into the garage with coffee in my new mug and a look at where to fit the new style vin plate
So with a sunny morning car was pushed out of garage.
When i left the car I had bonded on the body and decided to leave it for the month to bond. While at work I came up with an idea to bolt the body as an extra security to the spitfire side bumper mountings. this was for two reasons one to hold the body as well as the bonding agent and two to postion the rear arches in the correct postion.
The first photos shows the body and the measurement need to have a uniformed distance on both sides of the car. So with using the countersunk set screws I was able to set this and lock it all in place and add some extra strength but not sure if its over kill or not. With using the countersinks I can blend them into the bodywork at a later date. Also at this time I replace the selftapping screws with poprivets so thats the main body now fitted to the car.
Thanks for the support Guys and Paul L more to follow on the arches and wheel size set up.
I am now happy with the body so its time now to connect the petrol tank back up. After marking up the hole for the filler cap and cutting out I used an extension pipe to give me the extra height needed.
I also had a little time left to trial fit my mga light plinths which arrived from USA that afternoon and position the number plate to give me an idea if this set up works or not.
Last edited by Yorkshireman; 2nd July 2018 at 12:10..
I put in the seach engine mga racing rear lightsthis came up with lots of different light options. I found the spare parts expensive in the uk. I since found out from an American that most of mga production went to USA and that results in lots of spare parts. I managed to get mine delivered and taxes for less than buying one light plinth in uk. Also this light plinth style is handed.
my intention with this body conversion has always been to try and use as many of the doners parts as possible. So this is the idea I came up with. I am hope the photos explain the process. The first door took a whole day to hang but with all things the second door was 20 minutes. Most of the time was due to been cautious, lots of nibbling at parts rather than cutting correct size first time.
first two photos show the cut in the body to fit in the hinges this will be filled in at a later date one the doors are hung. It also shows the first modification to the spitfire hinge.
The lower blue pen mark was for positioning outside hinges, however because of the curves and rolls of the design of the door skin i didn't think i could get this method to work and it would have ment buying new hinges.
These photos show how the hinges were attached to the body of the car this wooden arrangement give s me adjust ment up and down forward and back wards and a slight rotate should i need it. The finishing position will be marked and then held in position with strong wood screws.
These three photos show the doors hung. Further modification of the original hinge and two more countersunk set screws will be added to each hinge. one hing is more than substantial for the weight of the door. However even new spitfire hinges have quite a lot of play in them with no adjustment so I will come up with some latch plate that lifts the doors into the correct position when shut on the door latch /look mechanism. Something I will look into back at work, so I can achieve a nice shut line around the doors and fill in the gaps around the hinges.
On refection I am sure this arrangement could be done with steel box section, perhaps, but not this time maybe another build
So the next was task on the car was going to be fitting the bonnet. While I was admiring the doors on the car my fiance came to the garage to see what I was up to and what progress I had made. Asking me why I had pumped the tire up more on the drivers side than the passenger?
My reply was I hadn't. Ok she said its just that the back of the car looks higher on the drivers side not to worry I will get you a beer.
The above photos show the tire was not over inflated and that the boot opening was not square to the yellow mould grease it measured 11mm higher at the drivers side. Which was sort of a relief as after much measuring of wheel centers and various body to floor measurements confirmed I hadn't put the body on at an angle.
So with that information I pushed the car in the garage and sought another beer and contacted my extra pair of hands aka Les my brother in law for lessons in fiberglass for beginners
So an early start today and marking out the boot opening to be cut.
No turning back now angle grinder out and boot hole removed.
The black line shows the amount of body to be removed to make the opening square. so this was removed along with some of the top and sides to make it all a square opening.
the boot opening is now square and now requires fiberglassing in place. To hold the boot opening in position I fitted marine ply wood and srcewed it to the main body to hold it secure while it was fiberglassed.
So a quick lesson in fiberglassing.
I ended up with the boot opening joined back onto the main body and square
The whole process took about four hours and I learnt a valuable lesson in fiberglass which I am great full for been shown. Maybe it was a bit over the top but I now know there shouldn't be any problems with alignment or with the boot opening on an angle. It just means i have a bit more prepwork filling in before paint.
When said Fiance came home from work I got an is the red stuff staying on the car but approval that the car was correct height.
So as the fiberglass went so well and dries really fast, I had the afternoon left and the sunny weather.
The post man arrived with a parcel for me and some comment that was I sure the car would be ready for the end of the month
The parcel was 2 triumph tr4 herald vitesse hinges. All through this project I was determined to use as much of the doner spitfire as possible. But the spitfire mark4 1500 boot lid hingeswere the wrong shape lift angle mounting. So I admitted defeat last time home and ordered these while at work.
So after the rest of the afternoon measuring drilling and fettling the bootlid with sand paper I ended up with an open and closing boot.
Another sucessful day. I am happy with the progress of the kit but I am not sure I need the extra 4 hours moving the boot opening and the extra work i still need to do filling and sanding for paint. If i had been fitting a speed hump I think it was not nessacary to do all the mods.
However my fiance or project manager said the design didnt need a hump. Her quote was as follows when I drive the car you will have all the hump you need therefore the car doesnt need one