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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Bodywork

Bodywork Share your thoughts, problems and ideas about bodywork related issues

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  #1  
Old 27th July 2005, 23:04
dr.freemanstein dr.freemanstein is offline
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Default Custom Bodywork

Being over-enthusiastic,over-adventurous and generally MAD...
I have decided to not go for a kit for my first build!!!!!

I want to create something unique, and this is the closest forum to this subject i could find.

My question is regarding the moulding of fibreglass body work. Does anyone know the best way to go about this (what matting to use/resin, how many layers to do, what to make the mould from etc...)

Any input would be of great assistance
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  #2  
Old 28th July 2005, 01:26
Strolls Strolls is offline
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Default Re: Custom Bodywork

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.freemanstein
I want to create something unique.... Does anyone know the best way to go about this (what matting to use/resin, how many layers to do, what to make the mould from etc...)
ARRRG! I wrote loads in reply to you & my browser just crashed!! I guess the benefit of this is that you just get the links without my half-formed suppositions - I know naff all about this subject, but your question interested me, and I did some Googling:

http://www.puppetguild.org.uk/janking2.htm
http://www.cyb-glassfibre.co.uk/GRPMaintenance.htm
http://www.mse.mtu.edu/~drjohn/my415...0/class20.html
http://factoryfive.com/table/ffrkits...datefeb05.html

The first couple of links are probably only useful as an introduction to glassfibre mould-making, although CYB do classes. The third one seems to answer your questions about the type of matting & resin & stuff to use - the interesting question is more "what to make the plug from" I think, rather than the mould. When you've read these articles the word "plug" will make sense, and the last link shows photos of the plug for Factory Five Racing's forthcoming (and gorgeous) GTM Supercar kit.

I'd be really interested if you wanted to discuss this further - please feel free to throw some ideas around.

Stroller.
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  #3  
Old 28th July 2005, 04:27
dr.freemanstein dr.freemanstein is offline
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Thanx Strolls, those links are great!
I have however, thought about the "plug" problem. I thought maybe, seperate panels could be manufactured from papier mache or something. That way they can be sculpted easily. Then take the mould from that to make it more permanant.
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  #4  
Old 28th July 2005, 12:00
Strolls Strolls is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.freemanstein
I have however, thought about the "plug" problem. I thought maybe, seperate panels could be manufactured from papier mache or something.
I haven't used papier mache since I was a kid - would it be strong enough? When making a mould out of glassfibre it has to be built up to three times the desired thickness of the final panels, and will be heaviest during the casting process as the resin & gelcoat are still wet. I was thinking of perhaps filler on a wooden base, or something?

It occurred to me after posting last night that the really hard part could be mounting the finished panels on the chassis, so that they look good, line up with adjacent panels and withstand 100mph of air buffetting.
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  #5  
Old 28th July 2005, 22:10
dr.freemanstein dr.freemanstein is offline
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I think you may be right, had'nt thought6 of the weight involved. Filler on a wooden from would be best, or even wooden frame/chickenwire/bodge-a-gap??

Yes, i had thought of the lining up etc, thats all part of the challenge!

I think the biggest challenge will be choosing what colour to paint the thing!!!!
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  #6  
Old 28th July 2005, 23:25
Strolls Strolls is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.freemanstein
Filler on a wooden from would be best, or even wooden frame/chickenwire/bodge-a-gap??
I'd be inclined to work in wood as much as possible, as I think it would be easier to get symmetrical than chickenwire - I had in mind to lay out contours a bit like this, so that you can position the blocks in the same way each side before filling between them.

It looks like other builders have been known to use expanded polystyrene between plywood formers, and I think I saw this method mentioned when I was researching yesterday, so it may be worth considering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.freemanstein
I think the biggest challenge will be choosing what colour to paint the thing!!!!
I'd use gelcoat myself, but of course the advantage of making your own panels is that you can cast them in as many different colours as you choose!

Stroller.
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  #7  
Old 24th October 2005, 20:52
NWillis NWillis is offline
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Default Bodywork

This isn't everybodies cup of tea but I went to night school for three terms and learn't how to spray. Taking panels to college each week to prep and spray. The College had excellent modern facilities and professional spayer for a teacher. I now have car with a superb paint job that cost me three terms at College i.e. 120
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  #8  
Old 25th October 2005, 07:56
Ex-Biker Ex-Biker is offline
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That is probably an excellent way of getting your kit sprayed.
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  #9  
Old 27th January 2006, 04:02
bathtubbuilder bathtubbuilder is offline
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Default PERSONAL EXPIRIENCE

HI,
I 'M NEWCOMER TO FORUM BUT FOR LAST 2-3 YEARS I HAVE A DREAM TO BUILD THE CAR. I PASS ALL PHASES OF PLANING FROM VW DONOR-LOTUS 7- TO BUILD FROM SCRATCH.
ANYWAY I BUILD A FEW 100 BATHTUBS AND DOZEN SKIFFS (ROWING BOATS) TILL NOW.
AS YOU ALL KNOW CHEAPEST RESIN TO BUILD IS POLYESTER BUT THERE ARE FEW DIFERENT TYPES.YOU HAVE RESINS WITH IMPROVED ACID RESISTANCE, OPEN FLAIM RESISTANCE , ETC.I THING THAT IS WISE TO USE ONE WITH FIRE RESISTANCE (RESISTANCE TO OPEN FLAME).SOME OF RESINS HAVE LETS CALL IT "BUILT IN" SMELL FILTER.WAX IS ADDED IN RESIN AND DURING CHEMICAL REACTION HEAT IS BUILDING -MELTING WAX AND THEN WAX IS BUILDING ON THE TOP OF LAMINATE LOWERING SMALL.IF YOU ARE LAMINATING LAYER AFTER LAYER (WHEN FIRST LAYER IS SET ) THIS IS NOT GOOD IDEA TO HAVE FILM OF WAX BEATWEEN TWO LAYERS.AVOID THIS TYPE OF RESIN.
MATT- AVOID TYPE OF MATT WITH POWDER ADDED TO FIBRES.THAT TYPE OF MATT IS HARD TO LAMINATE.
YOU NEED TO GO OVER AND OVER WITH BRUSH OR WHAT EVER YOU ARE LAMINATHING WITH TO FINISH PROCES - IT TAKES TOO MUCH TIME.WHEN YOU TAKE THIS MATT INTO HANDS YOU CAN FEEL POWDER.
I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH LAYERS IS NEEDED FOR CAR BODY I JUST POSTED TOPIC ABOUTH THAT BUT FOR BATHTUB 120CM TO 180CM LONG USUALY 3 LAYERS ARE NICE. FIRST LAYER USUALY IS 300 GRAMS , AND THE LAST TWO 350-400 GRAMS.THAT WOULD BE TO MUCH FOR CAR BODY.MAYBE ONLY FOR BUMPER AREA.
IN TUB YOU HAVE MAN STANDING IN 80-100 LITERS OF WATHER -ABOUTH 200 KG OR MORE.BUT IT WOULD BE WISE TO PLACE TO STRATEGICAL PLACES AROUND THE WHEELS ETC FEW LAYERS MORE- REINFOCEMENT.
ARE YOU ANY GOOD IN PLASTERING?WHERE DO YOU WHANT TO BUILD INDOOR OR OUTDOOR.IF YOU WHANT TO BUILD IN YOUR GARAGE YOU CAN USE PLASTER.IT'S EASY TO SEND.AND IT'S CHEAP.YOU JUST NEED TO SEAL IT , AND PAINT IT BEFORE LAMINATHING.
I MEAN PLASTER OVER WOODEN SKELETON.SEE http://www.grabercars.com/ AND LA BALA BUILD I'LL GO THAT WAY
AND FOR LAMINATHING IS IMPORTANT THAT FIRST LAYER IS THIN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN FIND THIN MATT, WITH THIN MATT IS EASYER TO LAMINATE 3D OBJECTS AND COMPLICATED DESIGNS AS CAR BODY CAN BE.

HOPE I HALPED
SORRY FOR SPELLING -I HAVE TO INSTALL SPELLCHECK.
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  #10  
Old 17th November 2010, 03:24
hotrodgt40 hotrodgt40 is offline
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i am new to this i purchased a karma dino and im having problems with the door , it is split from front to back up over the top and im not sure how to fix it , my dino is front engine rear wheel drive . mine is powered by a big block chevy 468 it has a tube chassis frame and a 4 link rear end set up with chevy front suspention . im running 488 rear gears i also need ideas as to what interior to put in mine my email is hotrodgt40 @ yahoo.com if you have suggestions

Last edited by JG; 12th May 2012 at 19:18..
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  #11  
Old 1st June 2011, 03:42
Robert010652 Robert010652 is offline
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Hello Folks
I am an Expat living here in California
I have some designs and wish to turn it to a usable body
I need an experienced mould maker as well as a laminator
can any one help?
Regards
Bob
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  #12  
Old 2nd October 2011, 03:22
jakegr4y jakegr4y is offline
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Default Need help!

Whats the best way to do? I have a pickup van..at first i thought that i'll just have to repair the body and as i passed a car restoration garage, i found a head thats fit my van..so what the way better? repair it or replace the entire head?

Last edited by JG; 12th May 2012 at 19:18..
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  #13  
Old 8th October 2011, 05:00
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Roadster Roadster is offline
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I have been playing with fibreglass for a few years now and built a few bit but not a whole shell. I am currently rebodying an mx5 to look like a 50s style car and i am updating my posts in the sammio section of this forum.

I have been keeping an eye on this post and i thought that this link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFSXIP6Vw8

would be useful to all interested in turning their designs into a reality.
It shows the process of creating a buck - to almost a complete car
the project isn;t finished yet

Lots of video logs to watch = i think they are up to 34 the above link is number 1
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  #14  
Old 20th February 2013, 13:42
bmcCharlie bmcCharlie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadster View Post
I have been playing with fibreglass for a few years now and built a few bit but not a whole shell. I am currently rebodying an mx5 to look like a 50s style car and i am updating my posts in the sammio section of this forum.

I have been keeping an eye on this post and i thought that this link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFSXIP6Vw8

would be useful to all interested in turning their designs into a reality.
It shows the process of creating a buck - to almost a complete car
the project isn;t finished yet

Lots of video logs to watch = i think they are up to 34 the above link is number 1
Ah, thanks for the video
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  #15  
Old 2nd June 2013, 20:44
ra5ax ra5ax is offline
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try this link ive been looking at this figured for the Foam and Fibreglass to do my build (search my username) about 1500 im looking for a cheaper alternative at the moment as I have a goal to complete my car for less than 2500

http://www.rqriley.com/frp-foam.htm
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  #16  
Old 3rd June 2013, 03:37
hotrodgt40 hotrodgt40 is offline
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I just need help with the door on my kelmark gt it split open on the top
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  #17  
Old 29th December 2014, 19:32
rossnzwpi rossnzwpi is offline
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Hey, hows your build going? I am doing something similar - or will be when time and money allow. I've used Riley's urethane foam and standard polyester fibreglass layup technique a few times on smaller parts. You can sometimes get offcuts and failed pours from insulation manufacturers for cheaper foam. You can also use cheaper polystyrene - which is the most common form of insulation in New Zealand where I live. It's readily available secondhand too - from dismantled cool stores. It doesn't sand as smoothly as Polyurethane and the styrene in standard fibreglass will instantly dissolve it. You can use a more expensive resin (Epoxy - about twice the price) in your first layer that doesn't react with polystyrene to seal it off and then use cheap standard Polyester resin.
Hope this helps - would love to hear more about your build
Ross in NZ
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