Garyh's Sammio build - Page 8

craigt · #**141** 30th July 2012, 15:56

Are these split rivets?

garyh · #**142** 30th July 2012, 16:04

No, just domed head that will need suplerglueing on place.

craigt · #**143** 30th July 2012, 16:06

Look good Gary, do you still have the ebay link?

garyh · #**144** 30th July 2012, 16:22

320931297328
I think they are all gone. Also not sure if they are a fraction small? but once painted, i think they will look bigger... but still subtle.

lancelot link · #**145** 30th July 2012, 18:58

CARMINE RED IT WAS !!

Nice period Jag colour , E-types , Morse's Jag and the like !

I have spaced Jennettes rivets 25mm apart around the cockpit and head fairing , 50 mm apart along the cills , back panel and screen and 75mm apart along the wing tops .......just making it up really , if it looked ok , I drilled the hole !

mine are 3/16 .....so a shade bigger , about 4mm ....3mm will work just fine ....remember , no rules here ! if you like it , then thats the way to do it !!

WorldClassAccident · #**146** 31st July 2012, 06:56

CARMINE RED - That's the colour I have decided for my G46, i just didn't know the correct name.

http://www.californiaclassix.com/arc...nguellini.html

garyh · #**147** 31st July 2012, 08:10

Maybe we should use their logo? I like the hole in the boot, lots of ideas from this car. I may paint it Ruby Red which is a bit darker, more like the Lancia and will be hand painted as will the rounders and numbers.

Charman.tech · #**148** 31st July 2012, 08:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by lancelot link

CARMINE RED IT WAS !!

Nice period Jag colour , E-types , Morse's Jag and the like !

I have spaced Jennettes rivets 25mm apart around the cockpit and head fairing , 50 mm apart along the cills , back panel and screen and 75mm apart along the wing tops .......just making it up really , if it looked ok , I drilled the hole !

mine are 3/16 .....so a shade bigger , about 4mm ....3mm will work just fine ....remember , no rules here ! if you like it , then thats the way to do it !!

"no rules here! if you like it, then that's the way to do it" Could not agree more! well said Gary

Mister Towed · #**149** 31st July 2012, 08:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by garyh

Maybe we should use their logo? I like the hole in the boot, lots of ideas from this car. I may paint it Ruby Red which is a bit darker, more like the Lancia and will be hand painted as will the rounders and numbers.

When you say 'hand painted' do you mean roller and tip?

I took delivery of my pure silver metallic cellulose gloss yesterday and I'll be spraying mine myself (never tried that before) although the roller method did look quite tempting. The way I understand it though, whichever method of paint application you choose it's the preparation of the body, getting it completely smooth beforehand, that determines the finished look. I have a feeling some big roundels will hide a multitude of sins though...

garyh · #**150** 31st July 2012, 09:29

Brush, techaloid paint which contains linseed oil, and like you say plenty of prep... when you look at these old cars especially the Lancia it doesn't look like a mirror finish, i want it to have a patina (age) not necessarily the RAT look.

davecymru · #**151** 31st July 2012, 10:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

The way I understand it though, whichever method of paint application you choose it's the preparation of the body, getting it completely smooth beforehand, that determines the finished look. I have a feeling some big roundels will hide a multitude of sins though...

I couldn't agree more!

I was in the same position as you and from the lessons i learnt I'd say the most ones are:

Get a separate pressure regulator/water trap on your air line and don't just rely on the one on the compressor.
Buy lots of the correct grades of sandpaper
A small palm/hand sander is essential for the curves on the Spyder (my B&D Mouse did a sterling job and then blew up right at the end )
Buy a few cheap painters overalls and face masks!
No matter how well you cover things, dust will get EVERYWHERE
Take your time.

Even after all of that, my shell still has marks and minor cracks (ignoring the big one on the bonnet which will be repaired) which initially i was very self conscious about and wanted to repair, but the more i meet other kit/classic car people the more i agree with what GaryH says and that they are just part of the 'character' of the car

Mister Towed · #**152** 31st July 2012, 11:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by davecymru

I couldn't agree more!

I was in the same position as you and from the lessons i learnt I'd say the most ones are:

Get a separate pressure regulator/water trap on your air line and don't just rely on the one on the compressor.
Buy lots of the correct grades of sandpaper
A small palm/hand sander is essential for the curves on the Spyder (my B&D Mouse did a sterling job and then blew up right at the end )
Buy a few cheap painters overalls and face masks!
No matter how well you cover things, dust will get EVERYWHERE
Take your time.

Even after all of that, my shell still has marks and minor cracks (ignoring the big one on the bonnet which will be repaired) which initially i was very self conscious about and wanted to repair, but the more i meet other kit/classic car people the more i agree with what GaryH says and that they are just part of the 'character' of the car

Thanks for the tips DC.

1/ Water trap is ordered.
2/ Will buy sandpaper shortly. I'm looking at 80, 400 and 600 grade, and will be using it dry as the internet research I've conduced suggests that a bare fibreglass shell that isn't gel coated it will absorb water if the paper's used wet, which will lead to problems with the paint later (feel free to discuss/disagree).
3/ Bought a B&D sanding mouse about two weeks ago, it's awsome!
4/ Will order a pack of disposable overalls before starting and I already have a couple of decent painter's masks.
5/ Dust already is everywhere and I've barely started the sanding.
6/ It's already taken me over a year to get my car to the stage I have so taking my time should be a breeze!

I'm not looking to achieve a mirror finish on mine - I'm just hoping it won't look like a chimp painted it.

garyh · #**153** 31st July 2012, 13:37

I'm not looking to achieve a mirror finish on mine - I'm just hoping it won't look like a chimp painted it...

WHAT YA SAYING, T...

garyh · #**154** 31st July 2012, 14:18

just thinking about the rivets. Once painted i don't even mind the paint being polished of a bit!

garyh · #**155** 31st August 2012, 19:57

Oh well, i've finally done a bit more on the chassis and i am even putting new bits back on!

It was easier to take the wishbone brackets off as i was rebuilding the complete side rail. These ones should help with the height of car.

Tomorrow should see all the outriggers back on, then a bit more welding...

Photo for inspiration.

garyh · #**156** 1st September 2012, 19:41

3 more holes to patch and i'm done...

Chassis now getting quite heavy to move around, nearly time to put some new parts on...

Mister Towed · #**157** 1st September 2012, 20:01

It's looking great and I love your picture of the D24. Is that one you took yourself?

garyh · #**158** 1st September 2012, 20:06

I think it was from the Goodwood site? I have never seen one in the flesh. I stood on chassis and nothing moved, I know thats how Pat checked his welding... It really has been a big job, and a nuisance travelling to garage, but i will get there?

http://garyssammiospyderbuild.blogspot.co.uk/

Viatron · #**159** 2nd September 2012, 09:11

just curious but wont those adjustable rear suspension brackets count as a chassis mod and therefore make the VOSA rebody check an issue?

garyh · #**160** 2nd September 2012, 15:20

Do you think anyone will notice? I needed new ones and to my surprise arrived with two more pairs of holes...