G-46 on the road!!!!

[HouseMartin]

Originally Posted by micky1mo

The screen looks tall in the photos but it's only 200mm above the bonnet line.

Interesting, the 356 speedster screen on mine in only 220 high.
I like the indicators in the front grill a neat solution.
They used the fibreglass they cutout of the bonnet for the headlight openings as the lower plate of the headlight bowl.
You could try using it as a template to bend some plasti to an approximate shape.
You have managed to get the seat very low have you dropped the floor pan or are they just low backed seats?
I like the way you mot it without the screen, so no need for wipers or washers
Enjoy your first trip out this week and post a video!
Hm

[Nike55]

Originally Posted by micky1mo

The screen looks tall in the photos but it's only 200mm above the bonnet line.

It's difficult to envision without a person in the cockpit, but from the angle it looks like you will be looking through the screen rather than over it.

Are the floors lowered in yours?

[micky1mo]

Originally Posted by HouseMartin

Interesting, the 356 speedster screen on mine in only 220 high.
I like the indicators in the front grill a neat solution.
They used the fibreglass they cutout of the bonnet for the headlight openings as the lower plate of the headlight bowl.
You could try using it as a template to bend some plasti to an approximate shape.
You have managed to get the seat very low have you dropped the floor pan or are they just low backed seats?
I like the way you mot it without the screen, so no need for wipers or washers
Enjoy your first trip out this week and post a video!
Hm

Hi HM, your right and I started to make moulds of the cut-outs, interestingly the left infill belongs to the right cut-out and so-on. But a little birdie told me where I might get some original covers

I am using old style bucket seats bolted directly to the floor with one on a runner, well I actually put a gate hinge in between so they would tip forward. Hey! it's cheap and it works!!!

No wiper or washers need as long a the driver can see over the top of the screen and I can just

Still got a lot to do, waiting for my ACUSPART electronic ignition to arrive, then reset the tappets, cut out the center-box's on the exhaust, re-ajust the brakes ectect

On the bright side my pick-up is now sorted

[Nike55]

Thanks for covering a few queries I had via your post to HM.

Its always interesting to see how different solutions to the same problem are found by different builders.

Look forward to seeing video and soundtrack without the centre boxes..!

[micky1mo]

Fitted the new ignition and set the tappets, runs a lot smoother now.
Chopped the center box,s , gives it a nice "bark"

Now I need a new starter motor and I think the brake servo is playing up

[HouseMartin]

Originally Posted by micky1mo

Fitted the new ignition and set the tappets, runs a lot smoother now.
Chopped the center box,s , gives it a nice "bark"

Now I need a new starter motor and I think the brake servo is playing up

Micky, I have removed the servo and used a bypass pipe with 2 female end. The brakes still work fine, you just have to push a bit harder. It gives more feedback when those rear wheels lock up on awet road!
Interestingly I have removed the rear boxes but kept the middle silencers. I.lost a rear box on the scimitar on a rough road so thought the straight through box would aiid rear clearance. However is does drone a bit in top gear on a long run. It also has a lovely rasp as you change up a gear on the overrun.
I invested in one of the high torque starters about 3 years ago and it certainly turns the motor quickly for an easy start. However I found the solenoid started to rust up due to its position right where the splash from the front wheels hit it. There is a reason reliant put the solenoid higher up on the engine bay shelf.
Should not be a problem for you as it will be sunny and dry all summer.

I am desparely trying to fit my doors at the moment. The door opening seems to narrow at the top. Why have the doors got those crazy moulding in the side? Mine are completely different left to right.

Hm

[HouseMartin]

servo bypass pipe

HM

[micky1mo]

I did think about bi-passing the servo as I did on my last HOT ROD build but I'v ordered one now, only £25.

I thought the exhaust centre box's are the lowest point of the car??

Oh the doors, the doors :eusa_wal
I would recommended firstly just getting them to swing freely, then get them to open and shut.

[micky1mo]

I have had loads of "teething" problem and still it won't start when it's hot!!!
But I have had a chance to drive it a little!!.
The brakes have a lot of travel in the pedal which takes some getting used-to, and there is a terrible noise coming from the N/S as speed. Sounds like some thing rubbing or grinding but I had it up on the ramp and found nothing wrong.
I'll just have to wait until some think falls off or even jams-up

It does fell like it wants to take-off but it's still early days yet

Called it the paint shop today to get a quote!!!! Fell over when I heard the price for silver!
Cheapest price I could get was for BRG, so BRG it is and will be

I am told I will be getting some light covers next week so finger crossed

I do need a speedo cable and a tachco, can anybody help?

[micky1mo]

The engine is running very low oil pressuer when warm.
I would guess a few PSI at tick-over and about 20 PSI at revs.
I am told it's worn big-ends and crank shell bearings but the motor still sounds sweet with no knocks etc?
Any ideas or tricks

[HouseMartin]

Micky, I am no expert, but from driving a scimitar every day this what i know.

1. Oil pressure - this should be about 50psi upto 60psi at revs,
though it can drop as low as 20psi when engine is very hot at idle,
but should go back upto 50psi at 1000rpm.
I suffered a holed/leaking oil filter and the pressure dropped to zero at idle and 20psi at 1000rpm, but it got me home.
I dropped the sump with the engine in the car and replaced just the shells and thrust washes as they were not to bad.
However, I also replaced the oil pickup seal and that improved the oil pressure.
You may have a blocked oil pickup or filter, but I suspect your shells.

2. Brakes - these should work instantly with very little travel, if they are the girling 3 pots (fittted to jags and astons) they should be able to lock the front wheels at 30mph, even without a servo. I suspect you need to bleed them again (mabe master to servo) or you have a leak somewhere, probably a rear piston.
Try to fit a one way valve on the servo vacum pipe as it has a habit of sucking brake fluid from the servo into the engine

3. N/S noise could be the front brake dust covers, is the noise only when you turn or going straight ahead?

4. Try the scimitar web forum for hot starting probem, I have never experienced this.
I have played with the timing and it will start and run easily on upto 5 degrees of advance, so I suspect a fuel issue.
One thing I always do to help starting is to pump the acelerator a few times before turning the key and it usually fires first time.
A few gentle pumps when cold will catch it as I do not have a choke on mine.

6. Rev counter - I think there were 2 types one works well with electronic and one does not, something to do with how it gets its feed.
I have an old stag v6 rev counter in the shed you can have let me know if you are interested and i will post a picture to see if it fits you dash.

7. Speedo cable - sorry can't help there although my speedo needle does waver around a bit so I might needa new one also.

BRG is good choice, the big car suits dark colours.

What size steering wheel have you got, I found the 13" to small for the heavy steering at low speed and prefer a nice big 15" in the scimitar?

Good Luck

HM

[micky1mo]

Hi HM, your experiance driving a Scimitar is similar to mine.
1, When I first tried to start this car I had great difficaulty getting any oil pressure, turns out the oil pump pencil drive was the wrong on resualting in no drive to the oil pump
I think problem this took it's toll on the shell bearings

2, I work alone and tring to get some body with half-a-brain to help bleed the brake is not easy. I also think the servo needs binning

3, The noise is not brakes more like rear N/S suspension, again need a helper to drive while I listen.

4, Starting problems are electrical not fuel, replaced starter, altanator, solinoid, earth's etc. I just will not turn over fast enought. Like a flat battery. I think it's getting hot and suffering a parctial seazier.

5, ???

6, Tacho never worked even before I fitted the new ignition. Any offer is a good one.

7, Still need a speedo cable, although I wo'nt be doing much driving

Getting to like the idea of BRG.

I have stuck with the original steering wheel but I would like a wooden one.

In all I have spent a lot of money and time on the G-46 with little reward, and I still get more fun out of my 2CV based 3 wheelers

I have a Lotus just begging for one of the new Ribble Spyder body tubs, come on Andy

So. any body what to buy a G-46 in need of some TLC and a paint job, offers on a post card please