MartinClan Build Progress - Page 8

MartinClan · #**141** 7th October 2009, 07:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Cussen

Hi,
I fitted 4 point seatbelts with an inertia real that required a bracket to move the seatbelt mounting point forward from the rear chassis rail. I made the bracket and going for a belts and braces method put a 3/8 bolt through the rear chassis rail which went into a spreader plate on the underside.

My tame welder did a neat job despite being only and inch or so from the fuel tank. He used some heatproff shield to make sure none of the weld splattered onto the tank. Its fairly agricultural out here in Sommerset too.

Any pictures Chris? I was going to do the same and even got as far as buying the seat belts, but I found that the reels fouled on the rear tub. I still have the seat belts and, if your mod is simple, would like to retro-fit them. Static 4 point seatbelts are a pain at times....

Robin

Chris Cussen · #**142** 7th October 2009, 08:50

I'll try to post a photo some time this evening.
Somewhere somebody had a tutorial of how to embed photos in the post rather than as attachments. Anyone remeber where?

Chris Cussen · #**143** 7th October 2009, 08:59

Found the example, just testing
[IMG]=http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=184&d=1253729535[/IMG]

Chris Cussen · #**144** 7th October 2009, 08:59

Bum!

Chris Cussen · #**145** 8th October 2009, 10:23

Welding isn't the neatest. The bar is 4cm by 4mm which is about as thick as the stuff they use on aftermarket brackets used to lower the position of a ordinary seatbelt top mount.

Any force will be essentially along the bracket so if it does bend in a shunt it may move up only a few mm.

The bolt securing the inertial reel goes into a plated nut that is welded to the underside of the bracket. At the rear the bracket is welded to the chassis and a long bolt goes right through the chassis rail to a plated and welded nut on the underside. IVA man didn't make any comment about the security of the fitting.

I've also made a cover to go over the belts so that stuff floating around in the boot does not jam it

MartinClan · #**146** 8th October 2009, 12:26

Thanks Chris

Seems to be pretty much the same arrangment as the Sportster. I will think about doing something similar when the tub comes off for painting (The Sportster doesn't have the luxury of an opening boot!)

Chris Cussen · #**147** 8th October 2009, 14:19

I'v changed the first photo, it wasn't supposed to be of a nut. I'm going to tidy up when the tub comes off for painting....
That should be in exactly two weeks.

MartinClan · #**148** 17th October 2009, 17:01

I have restarted the trim. My first attempt at a door card. Not too bad (even if I do say so myself ;-) )

Few more pics here http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/martinclan/pictures13.htm

Robin

GreatOldOne · #**149** 18th October 2009, 12:34

Very Smart!

MartinClan · #**150** 29th November 2009, 17:27

Well the trim is progressing (very) slowly. I completed a prototype of a "centre Console" today that sits on top of the transmission tunnel. It provides a handy oddments tray and a simple way to fix the handbrake and gearstick trims. Also made in such a way that access to the handbrake adjustment is easy.

It sits just above the transmission tunnel on blocks so I can easily get the carpet underneath. As it covers almost the entire top it also means that all I need to do is cover the sides with carpet.

Why is it a prototype? Well once I fixed it in position I found that I couldn't engage reverse gear - oops.... Oh well it will be easier next time round.

Car interior is looking very black ATM. I think I may have to change the carpet to brighten things up a bit.

Robin

Patrick · #**151** 29th November 2009, 17:37

looking good, all you need is a hatch in the floor then you can "flintstone" when you need to go backwards

GreatOldOne · #**152** 30th November 2009, 07:20

Looks good. Who needs reverse anyway! Onwards!!

jeremy · #**153** 9th December 2009, 17:51

center console lookiing great..what material did you do the sides with?looks nicely curved.

MartinClan · #**154** 10th December 2009, 15:55

It's made of 9mm ply then covered with leathercloth. I just radiused the sides using a course grade abrasive paper using a "sesaw" action. It soon shapes up - you just have to be careful to get the same shape along the whole edge.

Robin

jeremy · #**155** 11th December 2009, 14:59

thanks robin, have just made one, and covering it this weekend-hope it looks as neat as yours.

MartinClan · #**156** 3rd January 2010, 17:05

I spent the Christmas (humbug) hols making the closure plates for the "boot". I pinched Jason's idea and used 3mm ali - although the way I made the opening bit is a bit different. Quite tricky to do - especially the side panels. It would probably have been easier making these out of something like Hardura - but like all tricky jobs its satisfying now its (almost) done.

Some pictures....

Just need to cover them in leather cloth now on the outside and stick on plenty of sound insulation on the inside. With a bit of luck I won't even be able to hear my noisy diff...

Robin

PS - Has anyone fitted speakers in the side panels - or have any good suggestions for some small ones that would fit? (That don't cost a fortune...)

GreatOldOne · #**157** 3rd January 2010, 17:48

Looks good Robin - It looks as if you've cut your door larger than the aperture, right? Good idea. Would have saved me some grief I'd thought of that.

Did you use 3 mil everywhere? If so, I guess it'd be quite easy to mount speakers onto it, you'd have no flexing.

There's a fair amount of room behind the panel, so I reckon you'd be able get pretty much what ever you wanted in there. Check the dimensions of the speakers you like on the manufacturers web site.

MartinClan · #**158** 4th January 2010, 07:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Looks good Robin - It looks as if you've cut your door larger than the aperture, right?

Yes - I thought it would be easier - i didn't have to be so accurate when cutting the hole plus no hassle with making door shuts. Of course it's always easier when someone else has done it first ;-).

Quote:

Did you use 3 mil everywhere? If so, I guess it'd be quite easy to mount speakers onto it, you'd have no flexing.

3mm for the back but 1.5mm for the sides. I think the 1.5mm will be OK for the speakers as I plan to cover it in sound proofing to dampen any rattles or resonance.

Quote:

There's a fair amount of room behind the panel, so I reckon you'd be able get pretty much what ever you wanted in there. Check the dimensions of the speakers you like on the manufacturers web site.

I'll get the tape measure out then....

Cheers

Robin

Patrick · #**159** 4th January 2010, 12:48

Very nice it's a job I still need to do!

peterux · #**160** 6th January 2010, 22:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

PS - Has anyone fitted speakers in the side panels - or have any good suggestions for some small ones that would fit? (That don't cost a fortune...)

Hi Robin,
those Ali closure panels look good.
I fitted some speakers salvaged from the rear parcel shelf of my donor. I think they were Kenwood or something like that? They looked quite nicely made but in practise they are not very good.
The space behind your panels is very dependent on the position of the speakers due to the wheeel arch and my car is not symmetrical. Finding the best position is a bit of a three dimensional puzzle and in the end was a bit of a PITA. From memory, you need to mount them as high up and as far back to find the best rear clearance.
With hindsight, I would have fitted smaller diameter speakers, giving more leeway on the exact speaker postion or try to find some speakers with low profile magnets.

Something I didn't do but might work, is to drill some pilot holes and with the panel in place, measure the rear clearance with a small rod.

Actually, with real hindsight, I wouldn't bother at all.

Hope that helps..........
...peter

P.s. You just need one of these...