Sammio Spyder Builds..... - Page 14

Roadster · #**261** 1st November 2011, 18:01

no dead link at the moment

Sammio Builder · #**262** 1st November 2011, 19:41

Try this - http://garyssammiospyderbuild.blogspot.com/

Trevor.
http://www.sammiospyder.blogspot.com/

garyh · #**263** 24th November 2011, 13:10

Daves thread and i was wondering if CaptainCrash71 had a go at painting with a roller? I would stiil tempted by this...

captaincrash1971 · #**264** 24th November 2011, 13:53

Not had chance yet Gary, I've done nothing on my build for weeks, despite having 3 weeks off work. Will have a go at some point though, have my doubts about it working, but for the sake of a few quid to practice it's worth a try.
Will let you know
Alan

davecymru · #**265** 24th November 2011, 16:18

From what i've been seeing, as long as you can get the paint on the car in sufficient depths (there lie most of my problems!) then flatting and polishing will give you a really nice finish.

There is a thread on one of the car detailing sites where a pro painter did a car with a roller and then brought it to showroom std just to prove a point. There was a LOT of hard work involved but the result was stunning!

Mister Towed · #**266** 24th November 2011, 16:45

Sounds interesting Dave, I guess so long as the preparation is done properly and then it's all flatted and polished thoroughly you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Think I'll stick with spraying though, seeing as I've got the gun already.

You mentioned that not having the right air regulator/water trap caused the paint ot go on too thin on a previous thread. What regulator did you end up going for?

Roadster · #**267** 24th November 2011, 20:03

i have rollered a camper it came out fine but the prep work is still the same as if you were spraying.

Im using a brush to paint the roadster, coach enamel so far so good the first coat of undercoat on the front looks respectable - 2 more coats then rub down with 600 and then the topcoats.

Im sure if enough time and care is taken the finish will be good with roller or brush.

garyh · #**268** 24th November 2011, 21:09

I really want to paint my car by hand, if it comes out like some of the traction engines I've seen I'll be well chuffed...

Plus that gives me two more grand to spend everything else...

davecymru · #**269** 24th November 2011, 21:19

i bought a cheap Silverline regulator/water trap, it seems to give much better constant pressure that the built in regulator.

Moisture/water issue, wasn't an issue in the dry summer months but recently with the cold nights, i've started seeing a lot more moisture in the water trap so i got it just in time! Although fingers crossed i'm all done painting for a while now.

Mister Towed · #**270** 25th November 2011, 07:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by garyh

...that gives me two more grand to spend everything else...

Two grand? I just choked on my cornflakes!

I'm aiming to spray mine myself on a budget of around four hundred quid including paint, thinners, primer; wet 'n' dry paper, compressor and spray-gun (and secondary regulator!). I reckon to make about a hundred of that back when I sell on the tools leaving a grand total of about three hundred quid.

If you really don't want to spray it yourself doesn't Gary pimp Mike's spraying services out at eight hundred for the whole car?

garyh · #**271** 25th November 2011, 08:34

this is the south east... as long as the products are up to scratch i know i can a great finish... i want that depth of paint and a bit of patina to match in with what i want for the car. Just wish i had more time! only using spanners at the moment.

http://garyssammiospyderbuild.blogspot.com/

WorldClassAccident · #**272** 25th November 2011, 08:47

I have been quoted between 1K and 2K for paint depending on the quality of prep and finish I am after.

I am sure I can argue it down a bit but they are roughly what it cost at the moment.

davecymru · #**273** 25th November 2011, 11:32

But will it come with all of the lovely chips and marks that you would get if you did it at home that would give you that instant "aged" appearance.

At least that's my excuse

Nick59 · #**274** 25th November 2011, 13:26

Blimey for £2k you can have a chrome vinyl wrap and still have change to have your teeth whitened

Luckily

as I live in the most deprived area in the country (official)
I can probably get the local polish or lithuanian community to knock it out for £100 cash

Gary that 15miles down the road makes all the difference.

garyh · #**275** 25th November 2011, 21:40

Oh well, another weekend

excellent... et some more done on Sunday. Start cleaning up chassis and finally work out what parts i need. I'm glad to hear that the bulkhead is not a stumbling block and i can now use my new floorpans and fill in the difference. i will take some pics sunday, so i can ask some advice.

this is more of a yawn, deffinately not bore.

garyh · #**276** 27th November 2011, 18:03

I'm gonna replace all outriggers a strip down one of the rails. I took the same route T, and stabbed a screwdriver through the rust. A bit of an awkward place and two orientations (side and bottom) Whats the best way to take off the welds around the outriggers? I have included some pics. Whe i was roughly cutting outriggers off, they were full up with rusty crumbs it was like emptying the toaster!

Mister Towed · #**277** 27th November 2011, 19:48

Ooh, that looks horribly familiar.

My chassis was full of rustyflakes too. Luckily (!) the holes in mine were big enough to blow most of it out with an airline and the remainder will get a good soaking with waxoyl fairly soon.

As for removing the welds left over from the old outriggers, I just ground mine back with the angle grinder until I could clamp the new ones nice and flush with the surface.

Not sure if you're a seasoned welder but if you're a newbie like me the best advice I can give you is to make sure everything you're going to weld is as bare metal shiny as possible, otherwise the arc just won't strike.

The other thing I'd recommend is measuring all the angles and distances between the original outriggers and main rails before cutting the old outriggers off so you can maintain the correct orientation when you fit the new outriggers. That way the back wheels should still point in the right direction once you've finished. Without a jig or an existing reference point I fear that aligning the rear wheels could be a bit of a problem...

Best of luck with it all fellow repairer of the small chassis.

garyh · #**278** 28th November 2011, 20:19

Lots of names i havn't heardof for a while and some new ones...
Please send pics of anything you're doing to your cars! Its all very interesting. Maybe add a few words as well

http://garyssammiospyderbuild.blogspot.com/

garyh · #**279** 5th December 2011, 20:35

What should i use to bond the body on, or if i want to do any mods/ re-inforcing etc? Also does bonding paste have a makers name, what is recommended?

Roadster · #**280** 5th December 2011, 22:02

Anyone else seen KItcar magazine?
There is a good feature on "66" Im sure it will generate more enquiries for Garry