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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #1  
Old 20th April 2016, 18:19
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Default Jag's 250SWBc build

Been uming and aring about what to build. I did like the 250GTO but decided against it as I thought I would have trouble finishing the bodywork to a good enough standard.
I then came across a Simpson design Italia which look much easier to build and finish, which I bought.
Then Chris started on the 250swb convertible and I knew that was what I was after as I wasn't too happy using a 1.8 as a base car.
I placed an order with Chris at the beginning of the month, I thought if I waited, the waiting list after the kit car show would probably mean I wouldn't get it before xmas.
I had been intending to buy my donor from copart as a cat C or D insurance write off. They seen to sell for between 700>1100 for a good 2.8 manual. Of course as soon as I decide I want one, all they have is 1.9's which doesn't interest me at all.
It must be a 2.8 or 3.0, manual and air con. Not too bothered about colour but the final colour would depend on the donor. I think there is nothing worse than lifting a bonnet on a red car to find a green engine bay.
I was hoping for

Silver, would paint it gunmetal grey with a red interior
or
Red, would paint it Audi Masano Red, this is a very bright scarlet
or
Blue, would paint it tour de france blue or Blu Elettrico

I have just picked up a nice(ish) 2000 2.8 manual with air con in blue so it's the last option colour wise.
Bit of rust in one of the rear wings but the main problem is that it will only rev to 2000revs and won't go any higher, suspect camshaft sensor or the sensor on the throttle pedal.
Bought unseen and delivered. Car was 775 so am hoping to get most of the purchase price back from the sale of the parts. Full service history and a folder full of bills.
I need to get it running properly first so I can get it MOT'd. I have a local painter and body man so will need to run it backwards and forwards so he can check my preparation.


Kit is coming just after the Stoneleigh so I will be visiting the show and taking my sharp pointy stick, just in case Chris needs prodding!

I'm not going to post a full build as Eric has done such a good job with his, but will post problems and work arounds. I have found Chris to be very helpful so will be bending his ear a lot too.

I have managed to get a bargain set of MWS chrome bolt on wires for 190, the chrome is past it so they are going to Tudor classics to be "chrome" powder coated at a cost of 56 each. Being bolt on it means I can still use BMW spare in an emergency, BUT I fancy twin tailpipes and from my brief glimpse underneath it looks as if I have twin tail pipes I will have to lose the spare wheel as it will be blocked and/or in the way of the pipe. Anyone have an ingenious work around?
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  #2  
Old 20th April 2016, 21:17
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ericholm ericholm is offline
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Hi Jag,

Welcome to the 250 club!

For twin pipes I had to completely remove the spare due to size of back boxes, so drive around with one of those compressed air can puncture repair thingys in the boot. My wife has a touran and the come with same setup and no spare. So for me that's fine.

It might be possible to fit twins without taking spare away but you'll probably end up with straight through so with no baffles and the tailpipes will run out wide at the back. As you may know to get the spare out you have to drop it down and I hen pull it out towards the back of the car, so any work around would have to go around the side of the basket its in.

Mines same blue as yours but going silver as there isn't much in terms of colour in engine bay and door shuts will be blacked out eventually. Each to their own I guess.

Pictures of progress are always appreciated!

Cheers
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  #3  
Old 23rd April 2016, 07:37
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Jag - There seems to have been a few different routes taken for tail pipes.







Good luck with the build, Paul.

PS
Not sure why WCs photo is HUGE!
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  #4  
Old 23rd April 2016, 12:17
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Thanks for the pictures, I had intended to go with 2 sets of twin slash pipes at the rear but looking at the pictures WCA may be the way to go. It looks identical to my old TVR.
My cunning plan is to make the system up out of pvc waste pipe using set bends, then reproducing it in stainless. Getting the bends right is the tricky bit, cutting the lengths should be straight forward. There are loads of bends and couplers on Ebay.
Looks like it may not be possible to keep the spare although WCA route looks as though it might be possible with a little rerouting.
I was also thinking about adding a short length of flexi pipe on both pipes, simply to act as a rear bumper, as soon as you hear the couch you know you have hit the high kerb. Rather hit the pipes than the bodywork and with a flexi it should take up a small nudge.
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  #5  
Old 24th April 2016, 16:03
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Look forward to following your build thread when you get that far.

Cheers, Bob.
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  #6  
Old 24th April 2016, 19:45
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Not going too well so far, Have been trying to get it to rev over 2k but no luck. My cheap reader came up with a fault for the idea control valve, what a bugger to get to. Anyway when you shake it it is meant to rattle but they get gummed up. Mine had no rattle so a good spray with brake cleaner and it now rattles well. However on reinstalling it the fault code has been cleared and stayed cleared but it still won't rev. I have changed both cam sensors even though they weren't showing as a fault but no luck. I have unplugged the man and again no difference. Anyone have any bright ideas? The light with a circle and arrow is lit between the dials.

On a more positive note, I managed to get a set of the chrome windscreen trims, bit of a bugger to get off, they are held in place with double sided tape and a couple of plastic rivets on each trim.I trimmed back the rubber windscreen trim and popped of the centre joiner at the top of the windscreen. Working from the top I pushed a long thin screwdriver between the trim and screen surround. The trick is to pry the trim gently up with the screwdriver and use the screwdriver to cut between the tape and the car. Great care is needed not to crease the trim.
If I were to do it again I would use an old sharpened screwdriver and a paint stripper gun to help melt the glue on the tape.

Next will be the tricky bit, refitting! I thick blobs of silicone will be the best idea.
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  #7  
Old 24th April 2016, 20:36
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When Nubodi's SWB convertible donor Z3 was delivered to our workshop it wouldn't rev above tick over. Richard sent down a new MAF sensor and that fixed the problem. Not sure if that could be a similar problem with your car.
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  #8  
Old 24th April 2016, 20:38
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Thanks Chris, I'll give it a go. I had unplugged the MAF and it made no difference so I presumed it was ok.

Give me a good old set of points and some carbs any day.

I did have what seemed to be the same problem a couple of years back on the wife's E46 and it turned out to be the throttle pedal podometer so I was feeling pretty confident with one, that was until I found out it just had a standard throttle cabe.

Last edited by Jaguartvr; 24th April 2016 at 20:41..
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  #9  
Old 25th April 2016, 07:39
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The fault with the MAF sensor was on a 3.0i and because its 'fly by wire' then the car would start but not rev at all.
As yours is a 2.8 and has a cable throttle I would go for idle control valve. Ive just replaced one on our Kobra demonstrator and that revs perfectly now. It had the same symptoms you describe.
New, Ebay or breaker (Pucko 07772282018)
Its a pig to get off though!
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  #10  
Old 25th April 2016, 08:26
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Thats for the info Richard. My code reader was showing the idle control valve as being at fault. I removed it (what a bugger of a job just because I couldn't get to the jubilee clip nuts!) and found that it didn't "click,clack" when you shook it, I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and it now click, clacks as soon as you shake it.
The code has also not reappeared.
From googling it seems that if you remove the MAF sensor plug and the car dies then the MAF is good, if it carries on running the MAF is bad and it has reverted to a default setting in the ECU. Mine carries on running so hopefully is the problem. I ordered a replacement MAF from Ebay last night for 25 so will try that first. If not then back to the ICV, at least now it should be simple to remove as I made sure that the clip nuts were all accessible without having to resort to using a double jointed dwarf!
Will keep you posted.
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  #11  
Old 25th April 2016, 08:31
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Luckily we have a double jointed dwarf who works for us....called Wayne. Come and see him at Stoneleigh.

Those aftermarket MAF's can be poor quality and may not last long, better a secondhand genuine Bosch one.
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  #12  
Old 25th April 2016, 08:33
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Jag, another thing to check is the Cat. I had a similar issue and it was a blocked cat.
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  #13  
Old 25th April 2016, 08:35
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I know what you mean about quality, trouble with buying second hand is if you replace it and there is no change you don't know if it's a different problem or the 2nd hand unit is faulty. If the new cheap Ebay Maf works then I'll pick up a 2nd hand Bosch unit and swap it over, that way I will know if it works or not.

I may need to borrow your double jointed dwarf at some time!

Cat is something I had taken on board that could be a problem, It's the last thing in my "to try" list as it's the most awkward, I thought it was also quite unlikely, but now you give me the good news that as you had the problem it might not be so unlikely.

Have a Corsa here, started it up and then unplugged the MAF, no difference in running so the google idea that it will cut out if it is a good MAF is false.

Last edited by Jaguartvr; 25th April 2016 at 09:42..
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  #14  
Old 25th April 2016, 10:11
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Most cars run if you unplug the maf. The ecu sees the maf is disconnected and runs with a default engine map.
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  #15  
Old 25th April 2016, 10:49
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Another internet theory trashed!!

In that case if the MAF was FUBAR then the car should run and rev over 2k?

Last edited by Jaguartvr; 25th April 2016 at 11:12..
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  #16  
Old 25th April 2016, 12:01
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So it definitely sounds like a MAF problem in my very inexperienced opinion, its stuck in limp home mode? have you disconnected the batter and left it off for a while before reconnecting to see if that works to clear the limp home mode first?
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  #17  
Old 25th April 2016, 12:09
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Both disconnected the battery and reset using a code reader. As soon as the engine is run and revved the MIL tight come on. The light with the circle and arrow between the clocks is also on and won't go out either with the battery or the code reader.
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  #18  
Old 25th April 2016, 12:45
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That sounds like the traction control light no? is it this icon?

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  #19  
Old 25th April 2016, 13:04
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That's the one. I had a problem with an E46 a while ago and that light came on when the engine went into limp mode due to a failed cam sensor.
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  #20  
Old 25th April 2016, 13:23
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So as I love these kind of puzzles I spoke to a die hard BMW lover and he quickly said its probably
  • Failed MAF
  • Faulty wheel Speed Sensor
  • your cat box - its breaks up into pieces and blocks the exhaust

To test the Cat, just remove it temporarily start the engine (noisy) but if it clears after revving it for a moment you have found your fault.

Good luck!
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