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Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build |
2nd February 2020, 16:10
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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I've ended up with a satisfactory solution by retaining the standard struts and making a bonnet stay prop. You end up with an assisted lift then slot the stay in place. The KISS method can always be relied upon !
Just need to sort my dead locked passenger door out, it won't open from inside or outside. The central locking works but won't unlock the door. Not sure what to try next, any advice out there ?
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2nd February 2020, 16:37
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans
I've ended up with a satisfactory solution by retaining the standard struts and making a bonnet stay prop. You end up with an assisted lift then slot the stay in place. The KISS method can always be relied upon !
Just need to sort my dead locked passenger door out, it won't open from inside or outside. The central locking works but won't unlock the door. Not sure what to try next, any advice out there ?
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Could you supply a pic of where you fixed the stay. Thinking of doing this myself
Thanks
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6th February 2020, 22:08
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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The stay is made from 10mm round bar 37" long. One end has a round tube welded to it, that slots over the bonnet spring. The other end has a repair washer welded to it and sits in a hole on the slam panel.
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6th February 2020, 22:09
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,144
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Photo here ……..
Having issues loading photo's for some reason !
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15th February 2020, 12:13
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans
I've ended up with a satisfactory solution by retaining the standard struts and making a bonnet stay prop. You end up with an assisted lift then slot the stay in place. The KISS method can always be relied upon !
Just need to sort my dead locked passenger door out, it won't open from inside or outside. The central locking works but won't unlock the door. Not sure what to try next, any advice out there ?
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Door issue is sorted, my fault with the fitment of the Mini door handle being slightly wrong. Thanks to Steve, jaguartvr, much appreciated !
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15th February 2020, 14:18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: norfolk
Posts: 691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans
Door issue is sorted, my fault with the fitment of the Mini door handle being slightly wrong. Thanks to Steve, jaguartvr, much appreciated !
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Can the reveal the issue/solution so others don't 'fall into the trap'?
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15th February 2020, 16:44
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Where do I begin ? Firstly the doors were working fine on the donor car. Central locking, opening and closing from inside and outside the car, all as expected.
I fitted mini door handles which are the standard option when you fit the extra door skin provided in many Tribute kits. I made an error at the beginning by fitting the handles a bit low on the door skin. The result of that was the plunger in the Mini door handle was too close to the pivot point in the BMW handle mechanism.
To get around that ( I had the car painted by this time ) I made a swan neck plunger in steel . That in turn pressed against the mechanism higher up in the door and looked ok, it worked, sort of. After messing around fitting the door cards, opening and closing the doors several times it all stuck shut !
I spent several hours trying to work out the problem, you couldn't open the door from inside or outside but the central locking sounded like it was all working as it should. I was truly F**** !
There were plenty of people with plenty of advice, both online and having spoken to a few people.
Online I found a youtube video where you power up a blue wire and black wire in the door to fire the actuator, no good !
The actuator might have failed but it sounded good to me and was lifting the inside lock etc.
Disconnecting the battery, turn the ignition to position 2, re connect the battery and it will all reset, no good either !
Local auto locksmith said the mechanical mechanism in the lock has failed and you have to smash open the steel lock assembly from inside the door with a long chisel and a lump hammer ! Really ? I won't let him near one of my cars ever again, I thought he was a good bloke !
I spoke to Ian at Classic Coach Works, he suggested you need two people, one to pull on the handle out side, one to push the door from the inside and force it open. Maybe, but I wasn't convinced .
Had a chat with Steve and he has been there before with a couple of his cars. Basically the car is in a dead lock situation and can be caused by the Mini door handle plunger applying pressure to the BMW mechanism. It only takes a little pressure and the door can deadlock under some circumstances.
I could see the mechanism in my door was being pushed slightly ( door card was off ). Simply applying light pressure on the mechanism back on itself I heard a click. The door then opened as normal.
The fix will be to remove the door skin and adjust the plunger a little so it isn't quite touching the BMW mechanism, job done !
Last edited by Lucky@LeMans; 15th February 2020 at 19:10..
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15th February 2020, 17:11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans
Where do I begin ? Firstly the doors were working fine on the donor car. Central locking, opening and closing from inside and outside the car, all as expected.
I fitted mini door handles which are the standard option when you fit the extra door skin provided in many Tribute kits. I made an error at the beginning by fitting the handles a bit low on the door skin. The result of that was the plunger in the Mini door handle was too close to the pivot point in the BMW handle mechanism.
To get around that ( I had the car painted by this time ) I made a swan neck plunger in steel . That in turn pressed against the mechanism higher up in the door and looked ok, it worked, sort of. After messing around fitting the door cards, opening and closing the doors several times it all stuck shut !
I spent several hours trying to work out the problem, you couldn't open the door from inside or outside but the central locking sounded like it was all working as it should. I was truly F**** !
There were plenty of people with plenty of advice, both online and having spoken to a few people.
Online I found a youtube video where you power up a blue wire and black wire to fire the actuator, no good !
Also the actuator might have failed but it sounded good to me and was lifting the inside lock etc.
Disconnect the battery, turn the ignition to position 2, re connect the battery and it will all reset, no good either !
Local auto locksmith said the mechanical mechanism in the lock has failed and you have to smash open the steel lock assembly from inside the door with a long chisel and a lump hammer ! Really ? I won't let him near one of cars ever again, I thought he was a good bloke !
I spoke to Ian at Classic Coach Works, he suggested you need two people, one to pull on the handle out side, one to push the door from the inside and force it open. Maybe, but I wasn't convinced .
Had a chat with Steve and he has been there before with a couple of his cars. Basically the car is in a dead lock situation and can be caused by the Mini door handle plunger applying pressure to the BMW mechanism. It only takes a little pressure and the door can deadlock under some circumstances.
I could see the mechanism in my door was being pushed slightly ( door card was off ). Simply applying light pressure on the mechanism back on itself I heard a click. The door then opened as normal.
The fix will be to remove the door skin and adjust the plunger a little so it isn't quite touching the BMW mechanism, job done !
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The internals of the lock feature two levers, one of which is the deadlock . These are both operated by the electric actuator.Steve mentioned that it is possible to remove the deadlock lever so it can't be triggered again, possibly a wise move with our modifications in place.
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15th February 2020, 21:23
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: norfolk
Posts: 691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans
The internals of the lock feature two levers, one of which is the deadlock . These are both operated by the electric actuator.Steve mentioned that it is possible to remove the deadlock lever so it can't be triggered again, possibly a wise move with our modifications in place.
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Am I correct in thinking the deadlock will be identified by locking the door and seeing the one which moves (not the deadlock)? Would further pressure move the deadlock and confirm it?
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