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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Formosa Builds, Ideas and Discussion

Formosa Builds, Ideas and Discussion Formosa 120 GR and related builds

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  #41  
Old 1st December 2016, 11:25
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Gary

Your last set of photos look just like our G46 which as some may remember we moved the bulk head back 200mm (8 inches) to get that long bonnet and front wing.


Peter
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  #42  
Old 2nd December 2016, 08:09
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How about vegetable formosa... very tasty... I love the photos at any stage, its also nice to get a bit of praise for your fine work, Gary.
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  #43  
Old 2nd December 2016, 17:02
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What about Samosa 120?
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  #44  
Old 3rd December 2016, 06:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charman.tech View Post
... Your last set of photos look just like our G46 which as some may remember we moved the bulk head back 200mm (8 inches) to get that long bonnet and front wing...
As if by magic.



Funnily enough, I also see similarities with some of the ideas I used on my car (e.g. wider body shell to cover the rear wheels).

Having said that, I stole, sorry, borrowed, many of my better ideas from other builders.

So whilst the G-46 had a front wing section something like this new project, the Spyder and Cordite didn't.



I'm sure christinedmc's #47 was first builder I saw convert the Spyder bonnet into this style.
( Photo Cropped from a Jerome Wassenaar original, as all of Michiel's build photos have disappeared. )



So I just followed him and others (e.g. Mac & Swifty).

I guess I just really want this project to incorporate all the high points of previous builds, a Bestofa Centoventi if you will.

Gary - The cuts in the body shell for the door openings look "deep" in the photo above.

Are the sides of the body shell cutouts at the rear set at an angle to allow "deep" doors to swing open?

Good luck, Paul.
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  #45  
Old 3rd December 2016, 11:53
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looking good gary
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  #46  
Old 3rd December 2016, 17:41
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Quote:

Gary - The cuts in the body shell for the door openings look "deep" in the photo above.

Paul , the doorshuts are deep because you are looking at a buck and not a bodyshell ....the buck is being readied to be moulded to create a body in the best way we can...therefore things like shuts will be moulded with more material than required and the bodies will be trimmed back afterwards ....
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  #47  
Old 3rd December 2016, 20:20
molleur molleur is offline
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Suggest a scribe line in the buck that will be reproduced as a "cut line" in the mold (If you don't trim it before molding.).
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  #48  
Old 3rd December 2016, 21:59
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Thats what Glan intends to do Molleur ..thank you .

Glan has 40 years experience in mould and pattern making , hes talking about locating pins on the moulds which is fairly standard on better moulds , so they don't 'step' out of line on joins ...but also putting 'wedge pockets' in so you have an area you can prise the moulds apart without risk to the mould in the way forcing wooden wedges down gaps can cause - thats new territory for me and I've been around moulds for 30 years myself .. ......

Its possibly a bit unfair showing his incomplete work sometimes ...we have got to create lots of detail yet , seperate headrest not integral like before , with option of having one or not available ...bootlid insert to be made , some lighting options being discussed , also talking about an extra mould to create a LHD dash as well...I'm really keen to get on with the bonnet area , but Glan wants the whole body tub sorted pretty much before we move forward , literally !!
I respect his approach to the job and we are talking about doing the bonnet area possibly over Xmas , New Year ..with a view to moulding it in January / February , so I can get on with the framework whilst Glan creates the cockpit insert ....
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  #49  
Old 3rd December 2016, 23:34
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Sounds like an excellent plan!
It appears that a really fine production mold will be the result.
I have never used wedge pockets either, good idea though!
Roughly 51 years for me.

I once was sent to Taiwan (for an English yacht builder) to resolve a problem with mold flanges. The Chinese were tearing them up.
Problem solved with a roll of packing tape. They were vacuum bagging a 102 ft. hull and draw knives were in use to remove the tacky tape. Put some packing tape on the newly repaired mold flanges, and instructed them to put the tacky tape on top of the easily removed packing tape. Solved in 15 minutes!
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  #50  
Old 4th December 2016, 05:49
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Gary - Buck, not body shell = "D'Oh!"

Still, that is certainly not the first schoolboy error I've made.

Is does sound like Glan is certainly putting a lot of thought into the kit production process.

Personally, I like seeing how the final design of these cars is built up in stages, so appreciate the photos being shared.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #51  
Old 6th December 2016, 20:48
garyh garyh is offline
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Gary, have you seen a 1952 Fiat Stanguellini 1100 sport?
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  #52  
Old 7th December 2016, 16:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyh View Post
Gary, have you seen a 1952 Fiat Stanguellini 1100 sport?
Nice.

Not a fan of the Philishave grille though and it could do with lowered floorpans to avoid the 'Noddy' driving position, which, although apparently period authentic in this instance, isn't very pleasant for the driver at speed.







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  #53  
Old 7th December 2016, 17:42
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Cool little car , I echo Toweds comments , but nonetheless a pretty little early 50's example ...looks like front of a Cordite and rear of the rare lesser spotted Alpha 1 ..
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  #54  
Old 7th December 2016, 17:59
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So what do you do when you find out that the chassis / rear axle you are using as a pattern has a 20mm discrepency that has affected wheel placement in the rear arch ..ie. one wheel would sit inboard 20mm more than the other ... ?

You cut the rear of the body off completely and move it over 10mm !!




We have been chasing a discrepency for ages , couldn't work out why the templates and tape measure were fighting each other ...now remedied !!

The front has not moved as its measuring up accurately ...a bit of extra work in the sill and doorshut area , but worth it in the long run ...

Glan put extra bracing on using 3'' x 2'' lengths of wood to ensure nothing moves ..as she is also starting to get quite heavy ...
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  #55  
Old 8th December 2016, 06:07
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Gary,you're probably way ahead of me here, but before you start cutting the body have you checked that both drive shafts are the same length?

If you have a Herald shaft one side and a late Spit shaft the other, that would put one wheel about 30mm further out than the other. If you 'correct' the body for that difference then it won't look right with a chassis with equal length shafts.



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  #56  
Old 8th December 2016, 15:20
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CHEERS TOWED ..BUT ITS BEEN CHECKED , DOUBLE CHECKED AND CHECKED AGAIN ...The problem lay with us taking measurements from outriggers that upon closer inspection have been changed ...I have had issues before with this ..should know better really !! All measurements now being taken from main rails etc...
We are within a 2mm difference on the long diagonals at the moment too ..which is pretty good ..
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  #57  
Old 8th December 2016, 21:18
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Gary - Good spot and great decision to fix the problem at this stage.

As whilst this is more work for you now, it means less work for the customer later.

Any differences that can be measures in mm is "spot on" in my book.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #58  
Old 16th December 2016, 12:33
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A BIT OF AN UPDATE FOR YOU ...

Glan has pretty much gotten the side profile back to where it was before the cut ..we have started to blend the front vent into the body too and lengthen it slightly ..The door has been re-instated and 3mm hardboard spacers in place to gap it ..

We needed to figure out what's happening with the upper cowl and bonnet line , so we put the Z300 bonnet in place to get an idea of where we are going ...



It fits quite well in this pic with it shoved over one way ...the bonnet line and wheel arch are looking quite good .



We need to split the bonnet in the middle , either side of the bulge , reduce its width by a couple of inches , reduce the width of the front wheel humps and radius them a bit more ..more curvy , if you like ... then re-instate the hump , altering its shape slightly ...cut the grille off and upright it , reducing nose length slightly and re-shaping the aperture and flatten the top of the wheel arch opening to take the roundness out of it to match the rears a bit more ( kind of like a '56 500 TR )....so you are looking at a very rough , basic start and not the end product ..but its made me feel good about it , seeing the front in place ...

Last edited by lancelot link; 16th December 2016 at 12:36..
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  #59  
Old 16th December 2016, 12:46
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Coming along quite well. Always more to do...
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  #60  
Old 16th December 2016, 20:48
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"We need to split the bonnet in the middle , either side of the bulge , reduce its width by a couple of inches , reduce the width of the front wheel humps and radius them a bit more ..more curvy , if you like ... then re-instate the hump , altering its shape slightly ...cut the grille off and upright it , reducing nose length slightly and re-shaping the aperture and flatten the top of the wheel arch opening to take the roundness out of it to match the rears a bit more ( kind of like a '56 500 TR )....so you are looking at a very rough , basic start and not the end product ..but its made me feel good about it , seeing the front in place ..."

You make it sound so matter of fact Gary
I know how time consuming that list is, my front end has taken many many months and it didn't require half of the tweaks your making.

Its looking good, with the z300 front its got a hint of Tojeiro about it.

It deserves to sell well I think it will be prettier than the spyder.
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