My Photo's - Page 10

Stuart · #**181** 7th April 2008, 16:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

Hi Stuart

I can collect from Stoneleigh. Shall I have them first and then forward them on to you?

Cheers

Robin

That would be great if you could Robin. PM me for address details

Stuart

Simon · #**182** 7th April 2008, 18:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

I really do think Marlin should run a tap through the bushes after the powder coating and before delivery. Check yours now, but don't force the eyebolt in, as you will strip the thread.

If anybody wants to borrow a nearly new 7/16th UNF tap, just drop me a pm

Peter

Hi Peter

I've just had the same experience on my Cabrio with threaded holes full of weld and powder coat...

Can I take you up on your offer and borrow your tap? (I've sent you a pm).

Thanks

Simon

peterux · #**183** 7th April 2008, 21:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon

Hi Peter

I've just had the same experience on my Cabrio with threaded holes full of weld and powder coat...

Can I take you up on your offer and borrow your tap? (I've sent you a pm).

Thanks

Simon

Hi Simon,

yes, no problem, i'll pop it in the post,

Peter

peterux · #**184** 12th April 2008, 20:33

Not much to show for the last couple of weeks work, but progress is being made. I've spent many hours cutting and glueing bits of rubber and plastic U channel on all manner of sharp edges. All the bumpers, bonnet edges and wings are now covered. Not very photogenic but essential for the SVA.

I've also had to change my HT leads as the previous set were not marked. Another SVA small print requirement.

I've started fitting out the interior. After hours of trying to make the Marlin supplied leathercloth handbrake gaiter fit, I came to the obvious conclusion it really is too small. I threw across the garage and ordered some nice real leather ones off eBay.

Also, spent a few hours gluing in some carpet underlay. A very messy job!

Some more pictures here........

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-bmwmarlin/

Peter

Patrick · #**185** 12th April 2008, 20:39

Gaiter looks great, I found the same thing and ebayed a nice one, same with the handbrake!

Looking good you're slowly getting through all the little things

peterux · #**186** 12th April 2008, 20:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

Hi Robin,
No, they are not 'E' marked. After months of searching for E marked refectors I re-read the SVA manual and realised that the only requirement is that the rear refectors are Red and not traingular.
Just in case, I have some cheap oblong stick on ones that are e marked which I might have in my pocket during the SVA test

On further reading of the SVA manual, I have to correct my statement above.
The "Obligatory" refectors DO have to be 'e' marked. (It is "Optional" refectors that don't need to be marked, so i was reading the wrong page

)

They also have to be less than 400mm from the edge of the car, so I have resorted to the stick on ones

Apologies if I led anyone to buy unmarked reflectors.

regards, Peter

GreatOldOne · #**187** 13th April 2008, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

I've also had to change my HT leads as the previous set were not marked. Another SVA small print requirement.

What - SVA requires HT leads to be 'E' Marked? I can't recall if my BMW leads have any markings on them!

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

I ordered some nice real leather ones off eBay.

I'm sure it's supposed to be like that Pete, but to me that gear knob looks like it should be turned 180 deg, so the stepped bit was facing forward...

MartinClan · #**188** 14th April 2008, 07:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

Apologies if I led anyone to buy unmarked reflectors.

regards, Peter

I bought a set but I am still glad that I did as they look better than anything else I have seen anyway. Stick on ones for the SVA it is then!

Robin

Speaking of the SVA you must be pretty close now Peter....

peterux · #**189** 14th April 2008, 21:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

What - SVA requires HT leads to be 'E' Marked? I can't recall if my BMW leads have any markings on them!
...

Yes, section 7 says that the HT system has to be fitted with radio Interference suppression leads that are marked to demonstrate compliance. My new set that I bought a couple of years ago were excellent quality but were not marked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

I'm sure it's supposed to be like that Pete, but to me that gear knob looks like it should be turned 180 deg, so the stepped bit was facing forward...

You're probably right!

Everytime I fit it, I seem to change direction. I never can tell which way is correct?

peterux · #**190** 14th April 2008, 21:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

I bought a set but I am still glad that I did as they look better than anything else I have seen anyway. Stick on ones for the SVA it is then!

Robin

Speaking of the SVA you must be pretty close now Peter....

Yes, agreed. Mine might magically re-appear at some stage in the future

I think i'm now just a few weeks from applying for the SVA test. I have the rest of the carpet underlay and the carpet to fit, final fit of the dashboard and door capping, plus a longish list of minor items and a final wheel alignment, camber settings, bolt tightening check plus all the SVA nut covers, etc,etc.

After 4 years, my list is finally getting shorter!

MartinClan · #**191** 15th April 2008, 07:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

After 4 years, my list is finally getting shorter!

I haven't even made a list yet - can't find a piece of paper big enough!

Peter - that little lock you bought for the rear "hatch". Do you have a part number for it? I can't see it in the Woolies catalog.

Cheers

Robin

peterux · #**192** 15th April 2008, 20:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

Peter - that little lock you bought for the rear "hatch". Do you have a part number for it? I can't see it in the Woolies catalog.

Cheers

Robin

Sure, no problem. It is a bit hidden away in the wrong section, I think.

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-152...anel-lock.aspx

Peter

MartinClan · #**193** 16th April 2008, 07:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

Sure, no problem. It is a bit hidden away in the wrong section, I think.

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-152...anel-lock.aspx

Peter

Thanks Peter. I've added it to my (growing) list of bits I still need.

Robin

MartinClan · #**194** 20th August 2008, 12:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

I formed two sheets of 4mm ply, glued together round a former. Take a look at my page 5 on my flicker site..........

cheers

Peter

Hi Peter

I have been using your former but have been unable to bend the plywood (3mm) without cracking the surface layer. Do you have any tips? Was there anything special about the ply you used?

Cheers

Robin

Patrick · #**195** 20th August 2008, 13:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

Hi Peter

I have been using your former but have been unable to bend the plywood (3mm) without cracking the surface layer. Do you have any tips? Was there anything special about the ply you used?

Cheers

Robin

Soak the plywood in water overnight, will be nice an pliable then. Leave to dry and it should stay put.

That's how I used to bend wood while building models.

MartinClan · #**196** 20th August 2008, 16:24

Thanks Patrick

I'll try it!

Robin

peterux · #**197** 20th August 2008, 18:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan

Hi Peter

I have been using your former but have been unable to bend the plywood (3mm) without cracking the surface layer. Do you have any tips? Was there anything special about the ply you used?

Cheers

Robin

I bought the plywood from a superstore B&Q and the batch was particularly bendy. I had gone to buy some of that MDF with saw cuts to go round corners when I found this stuff. One of my pieces craked slightly but being on the outside of the curve it becomes the inside when on the car so not a problem.
I started by clamping the lower right edges in my workmate (really tight) and then pressed down hard to fit the G-clamps at the top. (It helps if you have a helper to fit the clamps whilst you hold the plywood down) Lots of wood glue between the two sheets.

I also put some very small self tappers through the plywood and into the former to make it 'follow the curve'. I sprayed them with water after to make it 'set'.

Patricks idea of soaking the wood should work if your wood is too stiff but you'll need to dry the surface or the glue won't stick.

There is some more pics and notes on my Flickr site in the "Experimental ideas" folder (folders are called 'sets' on Flickr)

Good luck,

Peter

MartinClan · #**198** 21st August 2008, 11:15

Thanks Peter

It seems that your plywood was more "bendy" than mine. Good idea with the small screws to keep it in shape. I just used zillions of clamps (left over from when I built a boat)

My ply has been in soak overnight - will try again tonight!

Robin

peterux · #**199** 4th October 2008, 16:50

I visited Marlin, down in Exeter yesterday, to collect my windscreen, hood and hood frame.

I also got the louver vents put in my bonnet tops. I managed to find the time today to re-fit them back on the car.

Removing and refitting the 40 screws, washers and locknuts is real back-aching work! I will have to do it once more when I get the car painted

I'm really pleased with the result.

Now on with the hood and windscreen fitting..........

Patrick · #**200** 4th October 2008, 17:54

Looks nice, that's a job on my to - do list before paint.