Build progress - Page 22

Patrick · #**421** 16th December 2007, 12:04

Gave the car a 450 mile check over yesterday. Only loose item was a jetex exhaust hanger - this is the spare one should the others snap. The metal is far too soft and just bent. Have replaced the bottom half with part of an exhaust clamp. It's still squeeling and sqeeking and low speed so it may need another solution.

The driver side wing bracket is start to show signs of failing as well now. There was a stream of rusty water flowing out of it the other day while I was out. A nice big crack forming at the front top. Welded that for now so hopefully that will hold until Marlin send me the new ones.

Took the exhaust plugs out just to see what the car sound like, this ended up as a 3 hour marathon that ended with Richard welding some metal to the plugs then using a hammer to bash them out. Took it out for a drive, at low speed the resonance around 2000rpm makes your whole body vibrate! I decided that it really was too loud for daily use like that. Richard welded some nuts to the plugs (so we can just thread a long bolt in next time to get them out). Over 2500 RPM its fine with the plugs out so I think my plan to create a flap system might work - just need to work out how now!

One final issue that came up on the way home yesterday it was idling very high (1300rpm instead of 950 - 950 is the right idle for the map it has). After some investigation today it turned out the throttle was sticking open a little bit. Moved the pedal away from the side of the car a bit (pedal box is a bit floppy here). Siliconed the two ends of the throttle cable where the sharpest bends are and oiled all the moving parts on the throttle body. Now the throttle is nice loose and easy to use again. Also readjusted it as the cable had streched a little.

peterux · #**422** 24th January 2008, 21:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick

It failed. However it's not that bad:.....

3) Sheet metal edges on bonnet all round need rubber on them. Would have done this there an then but I need to go back anyway so no point in rushing it.

.

Patrick,
at your SVA, did the inspector insist that you put rubber strip under the bonnet as well as along the front and rear edges?
Did you glue them on or just pushed it on?

thanks,

Peter

Patrick · #**423** 24th January 2008, 22:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

Patrick,
at your SVA, did the inspector insist that you put rubber strip under the bonnet as well as along the front and rear edges?
Did you glue them on or just pushed it on?

thanks,

Peter

He did, and yes they had to be glued on - we used silicon as it was slightly easier to remove than glue.

I'm 99% sure any other test centre wouldn't have insisted on the under bonnet rubber. I think he only asked for that as he couldn't find anything else!

peterux · #**424** 25th January 2008, 21:03

Thanks, Patrick.
The silicon sealer is a good idea, I had not thought of that.

I'll get some of that cheap stuff in the diy shop that doesn't stick very well

I'll have to order a lot more rubber strip...

Patrick · #**425** 21st March 2008, 19:38

Finally bit of construction. The original bracket that held the header tank was a bit floppy so Richard welded up a new one - nice and solid now!

Patrick · #**426** 21st March 2008, 20:14

Plan A to hold the mesh in place on the nose cone - fibre glassed a set of nuts to on to it, then bolt it on. Final status - Epic Fail. The nuts pulled out.

Plan B (Richard came up with this one) Tubes fibre glassed into the nose cone!

Fibreglassed in place

All tubes installed

Some paint to clean up the work

Complete

Mesh installed with ZIP ties

Close up of the final mounting

Patrick · #**427** 24th March 2008, 16:14

New bits of steel for mud guard holders

Spacing for the carbon wings - ended up using 1/4 of one of these as space.

Steel bent and fitted to the front of the carbon wing.

Original wing mounts chopped and mounted onto the car. The standard holes needed drilling out slightly so that brackets would fit.

Eyeing how much needs cutting off to fit the new steel.

After much fiddling, a bit of welding and grind and the wing is mounted

Fits is not bad but the carbon wings are not quite as wide as the originals so it gets very close to the tyre.

Just needs paint now and the other side making.

peterux · #**428** 25th March 2008, 21:16

Did the Marlin wing stays not fit the carbon wings?

Patrick · #**429** 25th March 2008, 22:28

Once they were on it was out like the previous ones were with the stock mud guards. They would have needed a hole in the side to fit - I'm guessing its the offset of my wheels. So I thought it was a better approach to modify them. The stock metal was not long enough, the bend was about right though.

peterux · #**430** 7th May 2008, 21:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick

woohoo MOT pass. Did fail on 3 loose bolts first time through not bad!

Emissions were:

CO 0.97%
HC 151ppm

yeahy!

took video on the way over will process and post some time later!

We got the speedo calculation wrong, thought it was not working but the millage actually went up on the drive. Luckly you don't need that for MOT.

All set for SVA Friday now

Oh and before I forget it stopped raining just before we left!

Hi Patrick, remember this?

A couple of quick questions about the MOT and SVA:

1. Did you need a spare wheel and tyre for the MOT and/or SVA tests?

2. Does the DVLA/VOSA say you can legally drive to a pre-booked MOT?

thanks

Peter

JG · #**431** 7th May 2008, 21:28

Here is what the SVA knowledge base says on point 2

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/kb/?...ntry&EntryID=9

I don't believe you need a spare wheel for SVA or MOT.

Cheers, John

peterux · #**432** 7th May 2008, 21:43

Thanks, John.
Do you recall which VOSA document that extract comes from?

I'd like to get a copy in case of any over zealous PC's around!

Thanks

Peter

JG · #**433** 7th May 2008, 21:55

It's from the VOSA SVA guide which you have to purchase from them although I believe there is a pdf version floating around t'internet somewhere

John

Patrick · #**434** 7th May 2008, 22:19

You don't need a spare for MOT or SVA, however if you do have a spare is must be in good condition and filled with the right amount of air. Not sure if they check the speed ratings at SVA on the spare.

You can drive to a pre-booked MOT as long as your insured on the chassis number

peterux · #**435** 8th May 2008, 19:59

Thanks to both of you.

Patrick · #**436** 23rd February 2009, 17:01

Thought I'd resurrect this thread as there's some more building going on:

Richard did the wiper installation which is documented here: http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...3&postcount=29

New scuttle side panel without louvres compared to the original with louvres. The new one also now has folded back edges which gives a much better edge.

New scuttle side panel on the passenger side with folded back edges.

These still need a bit of finishing including cleaning up the bottom and end plus drilling the mounting holes.

Patrick · #**437** 24th February 2009, 16:15

A few more things checked off the list:

* Finished the scuttle side panels
* Opened up the indicator holes on the scuttle to fit the new ones
* Rear end break down
* Step one of filling the seat belt holes in the tub

I recommend everyone take their tub off after a year and check for rust issues, we've got a few area's that need to be cleaned up and protected.

Patrick · #**438** 1st March 2009, 17:48

Rough fill in of the holes in the tub with 8 layers of glass to give it plenty of strength.

Tub hole cover from the back

New side repeaters fitted - these need the hole enlarging a bit.

New scuttle side panels sitting snugly with the new repeater above.

Vent hole cut and cover fitted - this may look oddly familiar to some of you

Mirror holes filled in (the ones nearer the front they were in the wrong place!) and vent holes.

Back of tub sprayed black - hides all the modifications.

Bonnet cleaned up ready for louvres and the hinge holes sunk slightly further to allow the screws to sit more flush.

Fibreglassing experiment - this will form an attachment for any future rear diffuser.

Patrick · #**439** 15th March 2009, 16:10

Done some work on the new clutch setup:

Bolts through the top of the scuttle to hold the clutch master

[url=http://www.msportster.co.uk/detail.asp?cat=7&offset=528]

[url]
Wilwood clutch master mounted to wilwood clutch pedal frame and then bolted to the scuttle.

The scuttle will need some re-enforcement as does the pedal box.

Patrick · #**440** 18th March 2009, 20:11

Connected up the clutch this evening, the bite point is right at the bottom of the pedal travel, but is really controllable. It means the clutch will sit higher up that the brake at the moment so we'll have to see how it goes. The whole scuttle bends all over the place so reinforcement is required now.

And finally warm weather - well not freezing anyway