Couerdelion's 250 SWB Coupe Build - Page 7

couerdelion · #1 19th February 2018, 12:55

Didnt get chance to do much this weekend but did start on the dashboard.

I initially thought that the dashboard just needed the pods removing and that was it. It isn't.

Here's the dashboard sans pods.

20180218_114008 by couerdelion2013, on Flickr

A cut needs to be made to remove material from the centre at roughly the area where the two nodules are.

This might actually be a bit too much but it works out ok. There's also some trimming to be done within each semi cicle area leaving you with a dash board looking like this...

20180218_115902 by couerdelion2013, on Flickr

The tribute dash then fits on top...

20180218_120042 by couerdelion2013, on Flickr

There is some trimming to be done of the venting. I'll show that next time.

I also chose and got material delivered for the interior....

20180218_121509 by couerdelion2013, on Flickr

Jaguartvr · #2 19th February 2018, 15:10

http://s803.photobucket.com/user/jag...ed-31.jpg.html

From the picture you need to drill a hole 45mm up from the round chrome key hole. I used a 40mm hole saw which was perfect, just gave me enough room to bolt a plate to the bar.
Page 5 of my build thread.

I did put a thick bead of silicone sealant in an arc above the newly cut hole, the idea being that water was directed away from the hole. A lot of water can get between the old and new door skins, make sure you drill plenty of drainage hole in the bottom of the new skins.

molleur · #3 19th February 2018, 15:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

http://s803.photobucket.com/user/jag...ed-31.jpg.html

From the picture you need to drill a hole 45mm up from the round chrome key hole. I used a 40mm hole saw which was perfect, just gave me enough room to bolt a plate to the bar.
Page 5 of my build thread.

I did put a thick bead of silicone sealant in an arc above the newly cut hole, the idea being that water was directed away from the hole. A lot of water can get between the old and new door skins, make sure you drill plenty of drainage hole in the bottom of the new skins.

How does that work out on the spot on the Tribute door skin?

molleur · #4 19th February 2018, 15:33

Perfect, thanks.

Jaguartvr · #5 19th February 2018, 15:54

I saw on the Tribute doorskin an area that had obviously been filled. I just drilled through this at the centre point and on through the bmw doorskin. The drill bit actually hit the inner bar and popped open the door. This was obviously down to incredible skill and had nothing to do with luck!
I then used the drill hole in the door with a 40mm holesaw which gave enough room to fit the new striker plate.

molleur · #6 19th February 2018, 16:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

I saw on the Tribute doorskin an area that had obviously been filled. I just drilled through this at the centre point and on throgh the bmw doorskin. The drill bit actually hit the inner bar and popped open the door. This was obviously down to incredible skill and had nothing to do with luck!
I then used the drill hole in the door with a 40mm holesaw which gave enough room to fit the new striker plate.

Incredible skill indeed! Thanks.

couerdelion · #7 29th March 2018, 21:47

Back at it after a month of with the weather.

Another bit of a tidy up and then looked to fit the front end.
Assumed I'd mislaid the nuts that attach the bonnet to the hinges. Spent a while looking till I made the sensible decision to look at the Z3 parked outside and quickly discovered that they are bolts and I need to purchase nuts. Any one an idea of what size?

DaveP · #8 30th March 2018, 07:26

Hi,
I used nuts needing a 13mm socket so think they are M8. You will need to open up the hinge holes quite a bit to position the front end successfully too (I’ve not Domenic it but seen it on a couple of other peoples builds). So you’ll need some sturdy washers under the bonnet nuts too.
Hope this helps
Dave

couerdelion · #9 30th March 2018, 10:45

Thanks Dave. Just been out and bought some M8s. Hopefully they're the ones! ��

Jaguartvr · #10 30th March 2018, 11:40

Now that you've bought them, I used M8 flange nuts, save mucking about with washers which when your balancing the bonnet, spanner and nuts in one hand make fitting a bit easier. I didn't have to open anything up, it all bolted up perfectly.
Bear in mind that you do have some fore and aft adjustment. Align the bottom rear wheel arch of the bonnet up with the front of the sill.

lancelot link · #11 30th March 2018, 11:46

flange nuts all day long for me unless it absolutely needs a nylock ...makes life a lot easier when you are fighting stuff on your own ...

DaveP · #12 30th March 2018, 16:21

damn ... flange nuts of course !

When i did mine up there were three of us so didn't have Jag's balancing act to perform - that must have really sucked. The 250SWB front is heavier than the average politician's conscience

Dave

Jaguartvr · #13 30th March 2018, 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveP

damn ... flange nuts of course !

When i did mine up there were three of us so didn't have Jag's balancing act to perform - that must have really sucked. The 250SWB front is heavier than the average politician's conscience

Dave

I struggled on my own as I was worried about spilling my beer..............

couerdelion · #14 30th March 2018, 20:02

Thanks for all the tips folks - was tough fitting it on my own but got the job done.

Did a quick video after I'd finished, for my dad, to show him how I'm getting on...

WhatsApp Video 2018-03-30 at 15.37.53 by couerdelion2013, on Flickr

DaveP · #15 30th March 2018, 21:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by couerdelion

Thanks for all the tips folks - was tough fitting it on my own but got the job done.

Did a quick video after I'd finished, for my dad, to show him how I'm getting on...

WhatsApp Video 2018-03-30 at 15.37.53 by couerdelion2013, on Flickr

Good job! Fitting on your own must have been hard

Dave