Oxford build

[oxford1360]

Hi Gary - I've not yet received the adapters. I have bought some three-ear spinners, and I picked-up two more matching Michelin tyres for £30. That means wheels and tyres have cost £37.50!

I want to mate the spinners to the centre caps that came with the wheels. Like all things Sammio, this isn't totally straightforward. I've had to order some plastic spacers so that the spinner sits correctly. I am confident that once everything is painted and fitted, the wheel centres will look reasonably convincing.

I am definitely going for green wheels.

I shall post some pics of the individual components shortly.

What colour leather have you gone for?

[garyh]

The green is looking really good, very period. Is your dash going to be the strip of fibreglass that you get or do you have other ideas... D24ish?

[oxford1360]

Not 100% sure at the moment. I don't anticipate using the strip of fibreglass.....but plans can change........

I want the interior to have as little as possible.

I had planned to go for the band of leather around the top edge of the cockpit to reduce scratching on entry and exit (I have some thoughts how I might cope with the hump, but they are not totally clear in my head).

I will use an instrument pod/hump similar to Mr T but based on a binnacle that I already have. I am putting new faces on the dials so that they look as if they have come from the Air Ministry.

I plan to have as few gauges and switches as possible on the dash.

The pics that I am using as inspiration while I plan are -

Obviously I'm not going for that number of gauges (It's not a Cobra), it's just the look and layout that I have in mind, e.g. white on black gauge faces and a black dash face.

And gauges inspired by -

I want the car to appear as if it has been built 5-10 years after the war ended and that the builders used bits from scrap Hurricanes etc. and paint that they pinched from the railways.

[garyh]

I like the ideas.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...t=3113&page=44

I posted a pic on T's thread that shows how to go round hump.

[oxford1360]

Originally Posted by garyh

I like the ideas.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...t=3113&page=44

I posted a pic on T's thread that shows how to go round hump.

Yes, I saw that. I've seen that type of stitching before and I like it. As Mr T mentioned, slightly finer might look even better.

[oxford1360]

Well, I thought I had primed every part of the rolling chassis and I was just going through a "mental" build ("mental" being the operative word) as I lay in bed last night and I came to fitting the anti-roll bar.......noooooo! I realised it was still sitting on a high-up shelf covered in rust and sh*t.

So, off I went this morning and also remembered the brake pipe brackets were still on the old pipes. While the blaster was out I couldn't resist cleaning up the bell housing.

Boring photos, but small progress is still progress.

You little b*stards, don't think you can escape the blaster and the sprayer.

And you two!

I was rather pleased with this. It's a nice casting.

So, boring pics but I should be able to finish off the green tomorrow......if I am lucky.

[garyh]

Love the boring pics. You daren't stand in one place too long at your garage, unless you want to look like a martian.

[oxford1360]

Yup, you'll be blasted and primed. You'll never rust, that's for sure.

[davecymru]

[Mister Towed]

Wow, you're going to have a mean, green resprayed machine!

[oxford1360]

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

Wow, you're going to have a mean, green resprayed machine!

Hmmm, sounds like a follow-up single for Hawkwind.

[oxford1360]

A day down at The Glade. It was a bit damp this morning to get spraying so I stripped the original engine because I need the timing and rocker covers, the sump, the flywheel and the back plate. I discovered a new clutch which was a bonus.

Then, it was time for some more pretty green. In the end I had to evacuate because I couldn't move for parts.

I finished, cleaned the gun, and put everything away. Then I looked round and noticed that I'd forgotten the shockers. Bugger. That can be another day.

I nearly broke my back turning the chassis over on my own to do the underside.

I now have a slight headache. Too many fumes.

A chap walked past while I was doing it and he came over. He said, "Do you mind me asking, but why did you choose that colour?"

Cheeky ******.

[Mister Towed]

Did you let the owl and the pussy-cat choose the colour?

[oxford1360]

It's Sea Green, not Pea Green!

[WorldClassAccident]

It's Sea Green, not Pea Green!

If you Sea Green that is fine, if you Pea Green then go to the Doctor ;-)

[garyh]

Ox, where do you put bodywork? I have the front end in the eaves but have to put the tub on top of chassis when packing up. I will have to wrap tub and leave outside on patio. Have been painting today.

[oxford1360]

Gary, I have the main body tub suspended "upside down" from the eaves. This creates a natural cradle in which to store the bonnet. I've used plenty of straps so that the tub retains its shape and doesn't twist.

I think this pic shows it best.

[WorldClassAccident]

Be careful about the bonnet and body changing shape while stored. Mine has been sat in the garage since my accident with the bonnet resting on top at the back.
Over the weekend I had some friend help move in out of the garage and under a tarpaulin to free up some space. We went to put the bonnet into place so they could see what it would look like and it didn't fit.
The sides had been pushed out at the curve across the width of the bonnet was very different to the bulkhead it was meant to sit on. A bit of swearing a few screws and some gentle pursuasion got it back into shape but that was after just four weeks being stored in the garage.

[oxford1360]

Thanks for the warning WCA. I am expecting some shape change but I don't have any other storage options.

I am "planning" to have a detachable rear end (cut along the line of the back of the cockpit). The rear section will be mounted on a lightweight tubular frame that bolts to the main frame (or uses 4 large pip pins to keep it in place). I am also "planning" half-doors very similar to the ones that MoriniMan described recently. They may hinge at the bottom or the top front. There will also be a boot panel and possibly a "Dutch bonnet" panel within the main flip front.

Dividing the main section in two should give me more capacity to shape things......or it may compound any problems. We shall see.

The reason behind the plan for the removable rear is access. I love working on cars where access is good (think Formula Ford without the bodywork) and I hate working on cars when you have to suspend yourself upside in the engine bay whilst trying to get a double UJ socket drive on a recessed nut whilst being burnt by the exhaust manifold (think all modern cars). If I want to work on the rear suspension, brakes, diff, fuel tank etc., then I want to enjoy it.

I plan to keep the car until I die, so I may as well get it how I want it.

The first car that I built (~25 years ago!!!) can be seen below and we regretted not putting a flip-front on it.

As a point of interest, that UVA M6 kit cost £17k+ in 1988. Please note, I did not fund it. With a nice Rover V8 and Renault transaxle plus all the extra kit and trim, it cost the best part of £25k to complete. It was stunning, sounded great, handled quite well, and we took it to Paris and Le Mans without any problems, but did I ever really fall for it? No. Whereas my little Sammio.............that's true love.

[MoriniMan]

Originally Posted by oxford1360

With a nice Rover V8 and Renault transaxle

'Nice' and 'Rover V8' is an Oxymoron!

I'm with Lee Noble. The V6 engine that comes free with the transaxle is much better. Bob Light used to blow at least two Rovers per season and the Essex V6 never seemed to be working right. If you raid the PRV parts bin it's possible to built a 3 litre 24 valve version with an easy 250bhp.