Are you madabout kit cars      
 "We've Got Kit Cars Covered" Information about Madabout-Kitcars.com Contact Madabout-Kitcars.com         Home of UK kit cars - madabout-kitcars.com Various kit car write ups All the latest kit car news Kit car related and general discussion

Search
Manufacturers
Kit Cars
Kit Car Data sheets
Picture Gallery
SVA Knowledgebase
Clubs & Communities
Build cost estimator
Kit cars for sale
Knowledge Base 
KitcarUSA.com
Classic-Kitcars.com
 

Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 6th November 2011, 16:26
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default CJ's Build

Having spent the past few months stripping the donor, selling-off unwanted parts, repairing both my chassis and front bulkhead I am now ready to start the build.

Here are a couple of shots of my bulkhead which is going to be painted tonight.
Nov5 034.jpg
Nov5 033.jpg

I have had all of my front/rear suspension components powder coated by a company called Trestans in Southampton. Here are just a few examples - I have about 3 boxes full of nice, clean and shiny parts. They look great and would you believe that it cost me only 90 to get it all done!
Nov5 029.jpg

I posted a few weeks ago about my repaired chassis when I saw someone on Triumph Torque being told that a chassis which had rot in its main rails should be scrapped. Got some reassuring comments on here from Davecymru & Mister Towed. Also talked to a local TR restorer who said that my repair is 'not pretty but neither does it lack strength". He suggested that I should drill a series of 3/8 along the bottom of the chassis (from rear outrigger back to start of boot outrigger) to let the air through and damp out.

Anyway whilst I was deliberating I came across a Triumph Herald chassis that has never seen the road and the metal work is as new. Secured it at a very fair price and it is now in the garage ready for my next Sammio build. But what is really ironic is that this chassis has had the boot outriggers and front bar ends removed as if it has been waiting for a Sammio body to come along. So when I build my 2nd Sammio I will, presumably, have to weld these extremities back to appease VOSA!

I have already got my frame but now need to get onto Gary and order the rest of the kit.

Chris
Reply With Quote
Available from eBay
  #2  
Old 6th November 2011, 16:51
Patton's Avatar
Patton Patton is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cullompton, Devon
Posts: 328
Patton is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi, let the good times roll, even when it's not so good getting over the problem is good, have fun, cheers PAT n Skippy.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 6th November 2011, 18:43
davecymru's Avatar
davecymru davecymru is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1,670
davecymru is on a distinguished road
Default

Glad i was of some use and i look forward to seeing another (far too shiny!) build
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 14th November 2011, 14:51
garyh garyh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: birchington, kent
Posts: 1,765
garyh is on a distinguished road
Default CJ, your bulkhead...

were they new floorpans?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 14th November 2011, 16:06
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi garyh,

I got the floor pans from a bulkhead that someone had started to repir. So they were basicallynew.

Chris
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 14th November 2011, 17:09
garyh garyh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: birchington, kent
Posts: 1,765
garyh is on a distinguished road
Default floorpans bought from Canleys

See pic attached. The ones i bought from Canleys have a constant edge all round, but in my pic it steps up to allow for the mounting bracket? So, does it mean I don't need a mounting bracket? my flooring pan will cover where the opening is that leads up to the hinges.


http://garyssammiospyderbuild.blogspot.com/
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0630.jpg (64.1 KB, 42 views)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 14th November 2011, 18:44
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi garyh,

As well as the floor-pans you also need the repair section that forms a step in the corner and has the mounts on the bottom. This then needs to be shoe-horned between the bulkhead and the floor-pans.

Can't remember the technical details but the photo below hopefully makes sense.

forum1.jpg

These repair sections are (only?) available from Chic Doig in Scotland who has an Ebay shop and provides excellent service.

Hope this helps.

Chris
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 14th November 2011, 20:37
davecymru's Avatar
davecymru davecymru is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1,670
davecymru is on a distinguished road
Default

The only bit of rust i found on mine was at that point on the drivers side, i ended up stripping it down with wire wheels and then fabricating repair patches out of 2mm steel sheet which were welded and then tiger-sealed in place. twas very fiddly, so if you're not that confident welding or you can get repair panels then i'd say go for that option!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 14th November 2011, 22:08
garyh garyh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: birchington, kent
Posts: 1,765
garyh is on a distinguished road
Default Thanks, Chris and Dave

I will learn to weld, then i will be confident... hows that. So, anyway where my new floorpans just run straight across with out stepping up could not just extend sides of bulkhead down to meet floorpans and weld a nut/washer on the inside of the pan and don't worry about the mounting points? as long as the body comes off the same way... and its all covered over in fibreglass.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 15th November 2011, 07:29
Mister Towed's Avatar
Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,881
Mister Towed is on a distinguished road
Default

Mine were completely rusted away on both sides. I did a bit of measuring and head scratching before removing the bulkhead: they're 2" 'U' channel, and I'm planning to fabricate something to do the job.

Thinking Sammio style, ie, completely off the wall, how about a bit of 2"x2" timber cut to length, suitably treated with Cuprinol and bolted in. Anyone tell me why that would'nt work?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 15th November 2011, 10:02
davecymru's Avatar
davecymru davecymru is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1,670
davecymru is on a distinguished road
Default

Given the strains that area is likely to receive and also a willingness to keep the nice ginger gentleman from VOSA happy with a like-for-like repair, I'd suggest possibly using some 50mm x 50mm x 2mm steel box section, simply cut to length and then bolted in place with either one long bolt or two shorter ones?

For a fiver you should be able to get enough to do both sides?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steel-box-...-/110639398816

Last edited by davecymru; 15th November 2011 at 14:14..
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 13th December 2011, 10:50
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default

Just a quick picture update:

BulkheadBrake015.jpg
BulkheadBrake016.jpg
BulkheadBrake017.jpg

So the bulkhead is on and the front/rear suspension will be finished this weekend. I will also be cutting the bulkhead down this weekend.

I am hoping to collect my Spyder body from Gary next week and am leaving the rimming of the plywood floors until I can see how wide they need to be for the body.

Chris
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 13th December 2011, 14:02
Mister Towed's Avatar
Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,881
Mister Towed is on a distinguished road
Default

Looking good. Looking very good indeed.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 27th December 2011, 16:35
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default

I collected the body and bonnet from Gary and Mike last Thursday. Had to just put it onto the frame to see what it looks like. Some photos here - very pleased with the look of the twin headrests.

Show5.jpg
Show4.jpg

Comparing photos on the Sammio website with those of other builders on this forum I was not sure how far the plywood floors should extend outboard of the side rails.

If I have understood Gary correctly, the floor should be in line with the side rails at the back but meet the bulkhead pressing about 1" in at the front. I have added a red line to the following photos of my current floor to show how, I believe, it needs to be trimmed back

Show1.jpg
Show2.jpg

Am I going in the right direction on this?

Thanks

Chris
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 27th December 2011, 16:54
mulberry's Avatar
mulberry mulberry is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
mulberry is on a distinguished road
Default

chris looks like you need to be wider on your front edge, take your line from the front edge of your wood. taper back to were you have drawn your rear red line.... hope it make sense.....ah double scoops,,, double the hassle.....only kidding
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 27th December 2011, 17:17
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks Mulberry,

I know what you mean and that is what I would have done before I checked with Gary.

But Gary definitely said that I would need to take 1" off the width of the front pressing.

Chris
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 27th December 2011, 17:25
Mister Towed's Avatar
Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,881
Mister Towed is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbjroms View Post
Thanks Mulberry,

I know what you mean and that is what I would have done before I checked with Gary.

But Gary definitely said that I would need to take 1" off the width of the front pressing.

Chris
Yep, that's my understanding too. I emailed Gary ages ago about this and got the following reply:

The floor is 12mm ply and follows the chassis shape except at the front it starts full width less an inch when lined up against the A pillar area...this tapers back to exact width as rear outriggers...

So, the floor should meet the end of the outrigger at the back but be 1" inboard of the end of the front one, right?
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 27th December 2011, 20:10
davecymru's Avatar
davecymru davecymru is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1,670
davecymru is on a distinguished road
Default

hummmmm, i'd not heard that one about chopping the front end metalwork before?

i'd got Gary to cut me my original floor pans and i certainly didn't chop any metalwork off the front and mine ended up ok. i admit that it doesn't lip under at the front as it's a bit high due to bulkhead/chassis rail differences (LONG story!), but even if i had the front lower and lipping over, i'm sure i would be fine?

I'll have a look tomorrow and see what the clearances on mine are like as you've got me thinking now!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 27th December 2011, 20:53
Mister Towed's Avatar
Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,881
Mister Towed is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by davecymru View Post
hummmmm, i'd not heard that one about chopping the front end metalwork before?

i'd got Gary to cut me my original floor pans and i certainly didn't chop any metalwork off the front and mine ended up ok. i admit that it doesn't lip under at the front as it's a bit high due to bulkhead/chassis rail differences (LONG story!), but even if i had the front lower and lipping over, i'm sure i would be fine?

I'll have a look tomorrow and see what the clearances on mine are like as you've got me thinking now!
Erm, not planning to cut any metalwork out of the bulkhead to fit the floors (well, apart from the rotten floorpan that needs replacing). My understanding is that you cut the floors to fit 1" inboard of outside the edge of the 'pans and taper them back to match the width of the rear outriggers at the back.

Over to you Gary...
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 27th December 2011, 20:57
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 119
cbjroms is on a distinguished road
Default

Davecymru,

I have seen your comment in your thread 'doesn't lip under at the front' but am not sure that I fully understand what you mean.

Could you just explain so that I can watch-out for this potential problem?

Thanks

Chris
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +0. The time now is 02:58.

copyright madabout-kitcars.com 2000-2019
terms and conditions | privacy policy