Scottie's Tribute A352 build

[Jaguartvr]

You can fit LED bulbs to all of the Jaguar instruments, they are meant to last a lot longer than traditional bulbs.
In my MK2 when I fitted LED bulbs I cleaned inside where the bulbs sits, there are blue plastic shields inside. After cleaning the instruments have a pleasant blue tinge to them. I have owned old Jags for years and they all shone a dull yellow. I can only presume that they had a blue tinge when new. Anyone going to admit to being old enough to remember what they were like when new?

[Scottie22]

I also have owned a lot of old Jags over the years, but could never afford a new one, so I wouldn't know what they looked like new!

Ref the LED bulbs, as I modified the Triumph clocks to work with Jag faces, they are half Jag, half Triumph, so most of the bulbs and holders did not fit, so I had to buy smaller bulbs, get holders about the right size, solder all the wires on and made the holders fit the instruments and so on, it was time consuming and fiddly, but not a problem for me, but to change them all now for LED and do it all again?
No way Jose!

[IanA]

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

You can fit LED bulbs to all of the Jaguar instruments...

No doubt but what of authenticity???

I remember seeing a 1930's Aston Martin on the Mille Miglia revival a few years ago which had LED rear light bulbs- yes they were brighter therefore safer and probably more reliable but not really in the spirit...

[Jaguartvr]

I know what you mean but in the case of the Jag instruments you just get a slight warm blue hue, not a nasty bright blue light. It is very subtle and does look good. I haven't fitted LED bulbs t the rear lights, although they would give a better and safer light, they just wouldn't look right.

Quite understand where you are coming from Scottie, even fitting them to the Jag instruments is a pain in the arse.

[WorldClassAccident]

[i]No doubt but what of authenticity???[/]

Of course! LEDs wouldn't be authentic on an old triumph that had been hacked about with some plastic body work stuck on to make it look like an old Jag...

Not knocking the car btw, just the worry about what 'authentic' might look like :-)

[IanA]

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident

... just the worry about what 'authentic' might look like :-)

Means different things to different people- the sort of detail that Scottie aspires to (thinking of rivets with correct appearance, dashboard configuration, etc) may extend to the "colour" of the lights.

The first thing I look at on so-called Cobra Replicas (and I mean replicas) is the layout of the dials on the dashboard and if that's not correct = fail.

For some reason- those LEDs on the Aston really irked me even though they must be safer!!!

[WorldClassAccident]

I know what you mean, I was striving for 'authenticity of look' on the Z300S and there wasn't anything original to be authentic to.

I just got a bit irked at a car show recently when I heard some blokes talking about 'real' and 'authentic' and 'original' when they meant 'a good copy' or 'bits from several different old cars'. Plus I was bored on a conf call when I replied earlier

[IanA]

Yes- there's a world of difference between "antique" and "antiqued".

I always cringe when I see a car finished in 2-pack when I know that the process hadn't been invented when the car was originally made.

Speaking of inventions- apparently cellulose paint was a by-product after the use of nitro-cellulose gun-cotton in shells during WW I.

Acrylic paint came about after the development of plastics for WW II bomber windows.

[Scottie22]

Just a quick update, I was hoping to finish the dash and get it finally in place today, but it was not to be.

Just about all the wiring is done now, but when I tested the indicators, the hazards were not connected up, but they both worked individually, I had however, made a mistake with my hazard wiring, to the effect of when the indicators were on, whichever side the red hazard tell tale was connected to would make it flash at the same time as the green light. Not what is required.

It then dawned on me that I would need a triple-pole switch, and connect the red tell tale to the centre connection.

Luckily, the switch I was sent, having ordered a double-pole, turned out to actually be a triple-pole, so I was able to get the system working correctly in the end.

I don't have any pics of the work as it looks just the same, but not wishing to disappoint people who like pics, here is a non-related picture, which amused me:

[IMG][/IMG]

[garyh]

My kind of humour...

[WorldClassAccident]

Reminds me of why David Beckham doesn't use taxi's. Every time he tried to gets a taxi home it just drops him at the train station. All he says it "Take me to Victoria"

[WorldClassAccident]

Yours for just £275,000 and it is not even 'authentic'

http://www.hofmannsofhenley.co.uk/ca...ernational-ltd

[IanA]

My suggestion is that Scottie completes his, drives it round to Hoffmans, parks up next to the black one and asks them to make him an offer. Then ask them why the figure does not approach £275k...

[Scottie22]

Its a really nice car, and of course I am slightly biased, but side by side there would not be an awful lot of difference in looks,
at least not £270 grands worth of difference!

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Axel]

275.000-270.000....so you are selling for5k?? ;-)

[Scottie22]

After the amount of work I've had to do to get this far Axel, the car will go to the bloody grave with me!

I wouldn't ever consider selling it.

Having said that, are you making an offer of £270000?

[Scottie22]

Joking aside, I need some urgent help.
I have made all the dash connections including the choke cable, but have one connection still to do.

Yes one, the problem is I cannot find the light green wire I need in my loom, and the Haynes wiring diagram, does not even show a speedo, never mind any connections.

I took a picture before strip-down to try to avoid this very situation, but with all the burn-outs under the dash and the extensive re-wire, this missing wire is proving hard to resolve.

I am loath to go ahead and put the dash in place without said wire for obvious reasons.

So one wire is holding the build up right now.

It would be nice to know what the small box is and what its funcion is,

but all I really want to know is what does that one terminal need to be connected to????

I have exhausted the internet and gone round in circles.

There must be at least one expert on this forum that can help me?

Here is a pic to illustrate:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IanA]

Hi Scottie
I've no experience with Triumphs apart from a TR2 engine in my first TVR.
However- it looks a lot like the voltage regulator in the back of a Ford (Escort era) speedo.

So- on a Ford...

It feeds a constant voltage to the fuel and temperature gauges so that their readings don't vary with engine speed.
Notably inefficient and unreliable especially as the measly screw holding them on and providing the earth connection works loose and you lose the readings completely.

I don't know what's inside or exactly how they work but there are solid state replacements on the market.

Hope this helps.

[Axel]

I had the Same Regulator in my Mini MK2 Cockpit, and when I installed my external Smith temp and fuel gauges I did Not use it and both worked without...

[garyh]

I used to watch a programme when i was a kid, called Danger UXB... go for it, Scottie.