Marlin Roadster (Re)Build

[Mitchelkitman]

There are 'rust removers' and 'rust converters', and in my experience both do a 'good job'. Maybe just a case of research and 'choose your poison'?

[oxford1360]

You could take it back outside and give it a thorough jetwash (meanest setting) on a sunny day. Then back inside for some of the above.

I used this stuff on mine and found it very good -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AQUASTEEL...r/264680865517

[Mitchelkitman]

The rust converters work by using dilute phosphoric acid (sometimes tannin as well as/instead of?) to give a protectived iron phosphate coating - In my experience, they work well and are easy to use (wear eye protection).
The rust removers do exactly that - if it's a rough, pitted surface it will end up rough & pitted (minus rust) which can be good for paint adhesion. I used some 10 years ago on the outside of brake drums and with red oxide, undercoat, and satin paint there has been no return of rust (FLW's). Takes a lot of time/brushing and mess though (a jelly version is suitable for chassis or similar.). For small parts the fluid version is great, as you just leave the parts submerged for a day or more (which is very easy of course).

[MartinClan]

Originally Posted by oxford1360

You could take it back outside and give it a thorough jetwash (meanest setting) on a sunny day. Then back inside for some of the above.

I used this stuff on mine and found it very good -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AQUASTEEL...r/264680865517

That's a good idea. In fact many years ago I used a sand blast attachment on my Karcher to good (if messy!) effect so I might do that. My lawn could do with some sand treatment anyway ;-)

Cheers, Robin

[jonkoxe]

You could also consider these from Car Builder Solutions. Probably the smallest available. Think about the fixing method of the PIN. It will need some strengthening as the GRP rear tub will not give enough strength and will fracture over time.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/mini-b...ches-pair-75mm

[MartinClan]

The original Marlin Roadster doors are pretty small due to the position of the running boards. But as I am going for cycle wings I thought I would take advantage of the extra depth. So I have removed the frame that the doors shut on. The picture shows a mock up of the new door with much better access. Should be much easier to get in now I am not quite so flexible as I used to be lol. I still have to add something for the door to close against at the bottom.

The original doors are basically a lump of 25mm ply skinned in aluminium. I plan to do something similar with the new doors although I will probably make the plywood more of a frame to keep the weight down. In my drive for a bit more safety I am planning to use anti-burst door catches from the series 3 Land Rover, as also used by Morgan. (Thanks to Peter for the suggestion.) More pictures once the catch arrives and I have made the first door....

original_door1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

prototype_door1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

prototype_door2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

[peterux]

Nice work, Robin. That will look so much better and make it easier getting in and out.
Are you going for the nice curved top to rest your arm on?