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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #1  
Old 6th February 2008, 21:35
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Default Carpet fitting

Any tips on fitting the carpets?

I have the Marlin supplied carpet and I'm wondering whether to fit a felt underlay first.
Something like this...
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-138...ning-felt.aspx

If I do, can I fix this stuff down with Aerosol Adhesive and then spray stick the carpet to the felt?
Will it be too floppy and saggy on the vertical tunnel sections?

Sticking the carpet directly to the floor and chassis seems to be the expected method but i'm concerned it will show the bumps where there are cables, screwed heads etc are and also be a bit 'hard' round the sharp square edges of the tunnel.

There is also this kind of stuff that looks very expensive...
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-161...stic-foam.aspx
Is it really worth the extra cost??

Also this kind of foam available which isn't quite so costly and I think would give a smarter appearance than the felt stuff.
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-161...stic-foam.aspx
It would be a nice flat surface for the carpet to stick to.


thanks for any help or suggestions,

Peter
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  #2  
Old 6th February 2008, 23:17
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I covered the tunnel (near my feet), firewall and floor with a sound deadening material:



You can get this from www.caraudiodirect.com. I had a bit of dynamat extreme left over from the last install I did so there a bit of that in there too.

Its stopped me from burning my feet on the tunnel. I noticed during test run that it got quite hot down there. Also is reduce vibrations by adding mass to the panels.

Carpet I applied directly to the metal using spray glue.

That saga is documented here: http://www.msportster.co.uk/detail.asp?cat=13&offset=96 it was a few nice warm days out the sun fitting those As you see the rear was a bit more difficult to do and I ended up using the door carpet to do that - there was not enough material to do a proper job in the template part that was in the kit (well not that I was able figure out anyway!).

After adding the sound deadening to the areas were it might get hot I didn't feel it was necessary to add anything else.
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  #3  
Old 6th February 2008, 23:18
Wingco Wingco is offline
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Hi Peter,
If you use underfelt etc. and the car gets wet inside it will take forever to dry. I glued mine around the edges only so they can easily be removed for drying. Incidentally spray adhesive doesn't seem to last. Finally, I don't see the point of sound deadening on an open top car, especially if you have a loud exhaust!

Last edited by Wingco; 6th February 2008 at 23:20..
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  #4  
Old 6th February 2008, 23:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingco View Post
Hi Peter,
If you use underfelt etc. and the car gets wet inside it will take forever to dry. I glued mine around the edges only so they can easily be removed for drying. Incidentally spray adhesive doesn't seem to last. Finally, I don't see the point of sound deadening on an open top car, especially if you have a loud exhaust!
IMO Reduces rattles and makes the car feel more solid - and as I said it also works as heat insulator. I've got an underfloor exhaust (and the only type or roasted nuts I like are chestnuts of cashew nuts ).

It can also help at SVA time as it reduces resonances which may add to the DB output of the exhaust.

(I can hear my exhaust very well despite the deadened floor )
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  #5  
Old 7th February 2008, 07:44
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I think some sort of sound deadening material is a good idea particularly, as Patrick said, because it also helps to keep the heat out. But I think it would be a good idea to go for something that is non-absorbent particularly on the floors. Sooner or later you will get caught in a downpour and if you use something that absorbs water it will take forever and a day to dry out.

I would ask Woolies if any of them are non absorbent. The last choice in you post looks best to me particularly if it is closed cell (non-absorbent) foam. I have used stuff similar to the first choice in your post and it takes ages to dry out if it gets wet (and it smells...)

Personally I am going to try and avoid carpet and use thin marine plywood covered in vinyl in most places. Most the surfaces are flat so this shouldn't be too difficult. Probably rubber matting on the floor.

Robin
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  #6  
Old 19th April 2008, 12:36
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I've been fitting some of my carpets today. aaaaaaargh!

Like Patrick, I've found that some of the pieces are cut too short which is very frustrating and annoying that Marlin charge so much for the Interior Trim set and then you find the cut pieces are the wrong size.

The centre tunnel piece is barely long enough and the side pieces are about 2-3" too short. I think they have been cut to patterns to suit the old short wheel base version. (I'll post some pictures later).
This on top of the handbrake gaiter that is too small and the propshaft flange that was too large, really makes you wonder about their quality control which spoils what is still one of the best cars on the market.

I know it's a kit car and you're expected to make a lot of things fit becuase of the individual nature of each chassis but some of these parts are clearly cut or made to the wrong size.

Right,now i've got that off my chest, i'll go and mumble to myself in the garage.

Tip1: if you have bought the Interior Trim set from Marlin, check the sizes of the side pieces well before the day you want to fit them.
Tip2: Fit the pedal rubbers before you fit the pedal box because fitting them in situ is a right pita (and back, elbows, etc)!
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  #7  
Old 19th April 2008, 13:31
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My tip for the pedal box, don't use the rubbers (I have big-ish feet) you this non-slip tape that cbs sell:

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/no-slip-tape-noslp-420-p.asp

I passed SVA fine with that stuff on there and I've got loads of room between the pedals!
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  #8  
Old 19th April 2008, 14:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
Like Patrick, I've found that some of the pieces are cut too short which is very frustrating and annoying that Marlin charge so much for the Interior Trim set and then you find the cut pieces are the wrong size.
It's the laser they used to cut it. The heat has shrunk them!
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  #9  
Old 19th April 2008, 15:23
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All I want is sharks with frikin' laser beams

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  #10  
Old 19th April 2008, 20:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
I've been fitting some of my carpets today. aaaaaaargh!

Like Patrick, I've found that some of the pieces are cut too short which is very frustrating and annoying that Marlin charge so much for the Interior Trim set and then you find the cut pieces are the wrong size.

The centre tunnel piece is barely long enough and the side pieces are about 2-3" too short. I think they have been cut to patterns to suit the old short wheel base version. (I'll post some pictures later).

Ok here are some pictures............

Line up the side piece with the door pillar like this............



and the back fits like this.............



Despite that I made some good progress today........






Just got to do it all over again on the passenger side

Peter
More pictures here...........
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-bmwmarlin/

Last edited by peterux; 19th April 2008 at 20:39.. Reason: added URL
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  #11  
Old 19th April 2008, 20:44
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Looks really good
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  #12  
Old 19th April 2008, 20:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Looks really good
Thanks, it's taken about 3.5 full days and two cans of areosol adhesive so far!
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  #13  
Old 23rd April 2008, 21:51
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Another full day last Sunday and another can of spray adhesive.....




and the boot area is nearly done........



about another half day to go and then refit my vinyl rear panels and i've done all the major jobs before SVA.

Still quite a long list (curently 29!) of little things to do before my test
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  #14  
Old 23rd April 2008, 22:11
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Looks great Makes the car so much more complete when the interior is in
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